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Messages - Analgesic

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1
Main Message Board / Re: New Furler Recommendations
« on: October 08, 2019, 04:38:15 AM »
I went with the Harken 3 years ago at the recommendation of the local well respected rigger.  Flawless performance so far.  He steered me away from the less expensive Harkin stating that it was cheaply built for the commercial charter fleet where price was the main issue since boats were not being purchased by the charter companies for long term ownership. 

2
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 15, 2019, 06:11:38 PM »
Yes to the last three.  I will have the right inspection ports in the new tank.  The leak was aft, gently sliding down from the  inboard corner of the tank  to land in the depression above the shaft log.  The first time I saw it,  enough accumulated to overflow the first hollow, drip to the wall behind the engine, build up there, then leak around to the bilge mid-ships, never enough to reach the mast area.  I feel lucky.  If the 15 gallons let loose, I can't imagine what my problem (and stress level) might be. 

3
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 14, 2019, 06:20:15 PM »
So, Noah was right.  When I returned yesterday, there was more  diesel only in the hollow above the shaft log and the paper towel between the tank and this area was soaked.  On close inspection, the aft inboard corner of the tank had signs of rust and the board underneath was moist, clearly a pinhole leak.  I was able to siphon off all 15 gallons into jerry cans.  With some online research I found Luthers Welding in Bristol, RI reporting they specialize in custom aluminum marine fuel tanks and have quoted me a price for about $200 less than Catalina Direct (and I can save $90 shipping by  driving down to pick it up an hour from hear).  The order is placed and I should be able to launch on time in May.  I'm very happy to have an answer, a plan,  and grateful for all the advice. 

4
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 10, 2019, 03:35:38 PM »
Thanks for all the advice.  I think my boat is not perfectly level, blow slightly up.  It looks like the diesel (and ice below it) was deeper aft and shallower moving forward with neither making it through the limber hole to reach the mast section.  I don't think the vent tube should come into play as the tank is only 3/4 full.  I'll be looking for the diesel track on Wednesday in the places mentioned. 

5
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 09, 2019, 06:37:47 PM »
I did one more test I failed to mention-soaked a paper towel in the pink stuff, put it in a jar and it lit with a match.  It  burned immediately with black smoke  so I'm certain it's diesel.  The pinhole leak seems most plausible at this point.  I'll check back Wednesday and look for any new clues. 

6
Main Message Board / Re: Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 09, 2019, 05:46:45 PM »
At first I wasn't sure it was diesel, hoping it was red antifreeze from the aft tank.    I would have expected a horrible odor but I suspect the cold temperatures affect that to some degree.  However, I mixed it in a cup with water and it layered out beautifully and of course once I got home to room temperature, I smelled like diesel.  I too am puzzled by the water in the bilge.  My best guess is it resulted from some of our harsh storms with horizontal rain and gusts to 60 knots over 12 hours.  The pin hole answer seems likely.  I guess I will need to hand pump the tank empty into jerry cans in order to lift it and check underneath as I can't see anything presently.  Any other suggestions? 

7
Main Message Board / Diesel in the bilge!!
« on: March 09, 2019, 04:27:33 PM »
So, I went to visit my 1988 C34 today on the hard in MA for the first time in a month (with some pretty intense cold since last visit if that is relevant).  The boat is shrink wrapped and the bilge had been dry.  I was shocked to see about 1/8" of pink diesel on top of a 1/2 " of ice in the main bilge.  Behind the engine in the aft birth there was about 1/4" of diesel under the shaft and up against the vertical fiberglass at the back of the engine.  There also was diesel in the depression above the shaft further aft of the shaft exit tube. No trickle tracks could be identified.   So, the search for a source is on.  I removed the aft cabin panel to inspect the fuel tank and all visible surfaces looked well  There was no diesel directly below the engine.   I turned the key to start the fuel pump briefly and couldn't identify any trouble.  The fuel tank read 3/4 full which is where I left it in the Fall.  All fuel lines are dry to my inspection off the top of the tank and into the space under the head sink. 
So, I absorbed everything I could (best estimate a pint of diesel total) and laid down dry paper towels to port of the shaft so if there is a trickle I should be able to see which towel it hits on the way to the low point. 
Has anyone dealt with this?  I fear something catastrophic might be coming on.  I can next visit the boat in 4 days.  Thanks in advance for any guidance on how best to proceed.     Brian McPhillips

8
Main Message Board / Re: Furling line blocks and fairleads suggestions?
« on: October 15, 2018, 10:51:35 AM »
I installed the same set up as MarcZ several years ago using a Garhauer product and I think it is one of the best upgrades I have made.  It allows rapid reefing in adverse conditions with minimal stress.
Brian McPhillips

9
Main Message Board / Re: Zinc question
« on: October 12, 2018, 09:24:48 AM »
Just got a look at prop (3 blade fixed) and I do see some pitting which is concerning, will need to remove and polish off metal paint for closer inspection.  I have the zinc for salt water and installation  was done using proper method described.  I'll trouble shoot the bridging wire, pencil zinc in heat exchanger and look for other trouble this weekend. 

10
Main Message Board / Zinc question
« on: October 08, 2018, 08:20:52 AM »
Last Winter I replaced the PSS Shaft Seal bellows which involved disconnecting and reconnecting the shaft to the flexible coupling.  There is a wire that jumps metal to metal around the coupling.  This morning I hauled the boat for the season and noted the two shaft zincs looked as good as new, not the sacrificial decaying look I'm used to seeing at season's end.  The shaft itself looks okay at first glance.   I have to assume the bridging wire is bad.  I haven't checked the pencil zinc in the heat exchanger yet.  Anyone know if I need to be looking for other sacrificial metal trouble in the engine or elsewhere?   

11
Main Message Board / Re: Upgrading Roller Furler
« on: November 08, 2017, 04:36:36 AM »
I agree, it is the sail design and not the furler  that creates shape when my genoa is reefed.  I have a "rope luff" which creates the shape.  The furler is under very high tension when I am occasionally out in 25-30 knots close hauled.  I find my Harken handles this well as I'm sure other modern designs do.  Having seen my older model fail under such conditions (no fun!), I wouldn't go with a lower end model in high wind conditions. 

12
Main Message Board / Re: Upgrading Roller Furler
« on: November 06, 2017, 03:45:28 PM »
My 1988 furler exploded this past July and I went with the high end Harken.  The local rigger said he wouldn't sell or install the lower end Harken, that it is cheap and designed for new boat builders who only care about price.  I reef all the time and get great sail shape, couldn't be happier. 

13
Main Message Board / Link 2000 meter question
« on: May 07, 2017, 11:41:34 AM »
I just replaced my 4 golf cart batteries and my boat has an old Heart inverter/charger Link 2000 set up that seems to have worked flawlessly for the 13 years I have owned her.  The boat is on the hard and when I attempted to charge them using AC power, it took longer than I expected to go from Charge to Accept and never went to Float.  The  cold volts reading on the Link is 12.35 V while a direct reading on the batteries with my multimeter gets 12.64 V.  At the same time, my starting battery (a wet cell 12 V) matches exactly and it has a much longer wire  run to the Link unit.   My boat lives on a mooring all Summer so all future charging will be via alternator until next Fall.  I have already reprogrammed the unit to make up for the "gotcha" bug discussed here previously.  I don't want to harm my new batteries with incomplete or inaccurate charging.  To those smarter than me, does this sound like simply a bad or undersized sensing wire?  Is there an easy test for this?  All wires disappear into dark places and before I start down this path, I wanted to see if there might be another answer.  Thanks in advance for any guidance. 
Brian McPhillips

14
Main Message Board / Re: Bilge pump and float switch
« on: April 20, 2017, 07:07:12 PM »
This topic took me back to my scariest boating day.  Flat calm water with a deadline to meet a ferry in Provincetown, we were motoring up Buzzards Bay full throttle when by wife went down below to make lunch and screamed "there's water everywhere," actually 1" above the floor boards.  We called the Coast Guard but the Cape Cod Canal Patrol was closer and arrived fairly quickly.  By then I had checked all through hulls with no problem found.  Family members were manning the manual bilge pump and running a pots and bucket brigade in a losing battle.  The bilge pump was on with no evident progress.  Long story made slightly shorter, together we found  that  a season of vibrations shook loose the bilge hose from the aft end of the check valve, past the limber hole under the cabin sole by the galley.  The motoring bow up angle created downhill flow right into the bilge with no check valve to stop it.  The boat was relatively new to me and I didn't know what I didn't know then- no antisiphon loop, single hose clamp on the check valve which was essentially a through hull, no bilge alarm.  Once we identified the problem and reattached the loose hose to the check valve, the bilge pump drained boat drained in minutes, only minor water damage but we were probably not long from sinking.  The experience taught me to focus on the critical systems first and frequently throughout the season.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Whisker pole recommendations?
« on: March 28, 2017, 10:31:17 AM »
I'll put in a plug for the Forespar extending pole.  I have used this for 4-5 years now and have accumulated a lot of experience.  It mounts on a sliding track on front of the mast and deploys pretty easily.  Damage to the pole is easily avoided by being careful-don't let your crew trim the  genny until the pole starts torqueing around the shroud.  I use various lengths depending on conditions-essentially can reef the genny running down wind and with pole way out I get significant speed increase reaching at 120 degrees off the wind  with main and genny set on opposite sides, main trimmed back and genny eased until partly forward of the forestay,  " like a square rigger."  At this point I think I would find a fixed length pole limiting. 

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