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I found a simple fix...raise the split in the backstay. We had rigging only make us a new set of backstay legs with the split 4 feet higher. 

We had same problem with our 545. Call garmin...you most likely need the software updated. They will instruct you on the process. Hopefully your model can be updated. We had a card in ours.

Mark,  the flex o fold does have propwalk...very similar to 3 blade fixed, but with more control. This prop, unlike many other folding props, has a real bite on the water. The blades are heavy, have a lot of shape at the leading edge, and a thick chord. This helps give predictable propwalk...and also the ability to power up and get a bite in reverse for steerage if needed. It is actually quite a nice piece of hardware that improves every aspect of performance.

Did you run aground in kelp or heavy weeds. If so you could have fouled the prop, hence what sounds like an engine overload condition.

Ron, Sucks how these boats get neglected. Our 1990 was middle of the road with regards to condition. The previous owners bought a new C&C 99 and let our boat suffer. Most of the items you mentioned, chainplates wet, bad bottom.... are typical for these older boats if not maintained very tightly. I normally don't talk numbers but I want to give an idea of how far we went into our boat and how much cost...this excluding time and energy. We paid around 40K for a 1990 mark 1.25 like Stephen Butler has. We added new instruments 2k, new upholstery 2k, cutlass and bottom job 2k, new bimini 2k, cockpit cushions, and countless other maintenance items such as repainting floors and resealing deck hardware including chainplates. In all we probably have between 55-60K invested...and BTW...with no regrets. We have made the boat into OUR boat (comfortable, clean and performing well.)
With our experience I can now say that I would have possibly looked at newer boats or ones in better condition if I could do it over. Ron Hill is correct about looking for a good one because there are plenty out there. As far as the boat you looked at...not too bad on problems...definately servicable...but owner unwilling to budge after neglecting the boat is a real turn off. You will find a better one soon I promise, but being boatless is sure to make it seem too long. Bill

Dan. Get some new injectors from tractor supply online. Takes half hour to change them...then you'll know. Get part # equivelant from this site.


Cmyerchin...looking forward to your report on the pyi mounts.

Bill

I like that new rail with integral seats. Would look good on my 1990 mark 1 1/4......but losing races has the budget going to a whisker pole this year. Very cool rail though.

I agree with the comments above...the poblem may be center of effort. 15 knts wind will have some helm, but nothing that couldn't be helped with flattening the mail or or depowering by letting the traveler down...and of course reefing the main is also an option.  Your mast rake could also be a factor. If the mast is raked aft it can add helm. You could possibly rig the masthead slightly forward and that should reduce the helm.          We raced this summer and won after a 5 hour grind to weather (15-18knts app). Helm was there...a bit fatiguing but manageable with depowering the main with traveler and sheet out. 7knts most of the way. This summer we will beregging with the mast head 2" forward of last year...should improve an already managable weather helm.

Exodus, I am interested in doing your version of this mod. Have you sailed her hard with this mod? Any water into the new thruhull?

Guys, some thoughts on rudders, repair, and some of my experience repairing ours.

Our rudder was weeping, but did not show excess corrosion - I attribute this to our freshwater environment here in MI. If I were in salt water I probably would have been far more concerned and looked closer at the problem and solutions. For us we dried, filled, built it bigger and reinstalled.

Obviously the rudder is one of those things you would never want to fail - it would almost be guaranteed to happen at the wrong time. (which is pretty much anytime it is not at the dock) So careful consideration should be given to the options.

The rudder is cumbersome and heavy - It is a two person job to remove (which is almost a necessity when repairing and obviously when replacing). The boat has to be lifted high or a hole dug under the boat- rudder post is a few feet long. A floor jack is invaluable in removal for assisting in lowering the rudder and raising it back up.

The rudder/emergency tiller cap can be frozen on the post in the cockpit. In this case it may have to be cut (without cutting the rudder post) to be removed. We had to cut a slot on top and on one side and pry the halves, literally cracking the soft metal cap in half. Catalina direct supplied a replacement in this case.

Peggy and others...any ideas where to run a larger sized hose and thru hull on mark 1's? We dont have the cabinetry to hide the hoses and can't think of a short direct route and location that would be out of sight and out of the water during a decent heel. Midship is a convenient spot but dipped often.

We modified the rudder on our boat making it larger, similar to the newer style. When we removed it it was in similar condition as yours with weeping and corrosion at the shaft/rudder joint. We drilled some small holes in the rudder to see how far the corrosion had eaten through different sections of the "grid". Luckily we saw clean, shiny metal (only drilled through enough glass to hit the metal grid for inspection.)

So we talked to Catalina and they sent us a diagram with some instructions for repair. One was to bevel out the shaft/rudder joint and epoxy or 5200, and the other was to pour resin (I believe a quart) down the shaft as a filler and preventative for future water intrusion. This past summer I believe a new rudder had a 6 week lead time and around a 3K price tag.

We hung it upside down for a week, blew it out with air (looked like dirt and mud sitting in there), let it dry out,  then repaired and filled.

The C34 was my first sailboat also...not too much to handleat all. The boat is actually a pussycat...forgiving along with good performance. You only live once. If it is a nice boat and the price is right, buy it. I am glad that I started with the 34 and have not looked back. I truly wanted to buy a boat that would fit my needs for many years and not get a boat that I would not be satisfied with. In a market where it is difficult to sell a boat, I found a solution...buy a boat that you will want to keep for a long time. The C34 will be that boat.

Anyone have a used wshisker pole for the 34. A new one is bit out of my range right now.

You will have no problem with the C34 as a carribean cruising boat. Just pay close attention to all the above points. Read them and then read them again. These pages are your support system in all matters pertaining to the boat and you will find them invaluable to your ongoing plans. Remember to update as many systems as possible while at home. Better to do a bottom job and other maintenace items if needed while at home rather than rely on unfamiliar places. There will always be things that pop up, but a little planning can save some pains later.