Messages

Thanks Ron,
The wiring diagram that was part of the Universal manual I found on Torrsen Marine site said it was for Catalina.  It's an older manual; Publication No. 200554, 1st Edition/January 2001.  We referred to the DC Electrical System, Wiring Diagram #200360 - Catalina Yachts and Wiring Schematic #200360 - Catalina Yachts, pages 96 and 97.   The manual is for:  M-25XPB, M35B and M-40B.  The web site is:  www.torresen.com

You guys are good!

The shorted wire was the external wire that supplies power to fuel lift pump.  It shorted on the copper fitting (about 3/4" long) that wire ran inside of going into the fuel lift pump.  The new pump does not have this copper fitting.

Thanks for in information on where the 10 amp breaker is located.   

Thanks for all the tech sites.

On my Catalina 34 MKII one Saturday my wife and I sat out for a sail.  Started the engine (Universal 35hp) and noticed all of my engine instruments were not working.  (Note: My fuel gage hadn't been working for a year, don't know how to fix.)   On way back to port we decided to drop anchor to have a late lunch, but engine would not start.  The winds were light and blowing such that sailing into my slip was feasible ( had done it last summer to show off) so we sailed into slip.  No problem.   My friend, Bruce with a Catalina 34 MKI, (Andiamo) came over and he being an airline mechanic had with him his volt meter and began to look for problem.  After three hours Saturday night (till midnight)  three hours Sunday till noon and another hour on Monday he had eliminated:  batteries, 20 amp circuit breaker, wiring and oil pressure gage.  (Note:  The engine would always start after I resset the 20 amp breaker and then the breaker would trip.)   Headed home and my assignment was to get a wiring diagram to see where the two wires from oil pressure gage went. (Downloaded a complete engine manual off internet from Torresen Marine.) Wires went to the fuel lift pump.  Bruce was at work and I at my boat and we communicated by pictures and email (have a phone with all the bells) and he instructed me to disconnect the wire from the fuel lift pump and the engine should start.  I did, it did and the 20 amp breaker didn't trip.  Bruce said I could run engine without pump and did one weekend while waiting for new pump to arrive.  New pump is now installed and engine runs like a top.   (Note:  Fuel lift pump wire had worn off it's insulation and was shorting out.)

Bruce is a GREAT friend!

So, if you're having a similar problem in future, it could be your fuel life pump.

Question:   Where is the 10 amp breaker?   Shows on wiring diagram, but could not find.

Dave, Thanks for asking fuel gage stop working question.   Mine stopped the day before I left on my 475 mile cruise.  I used the engine hour meter to keep track of the amount of fuel I used.   This work better than me looking at the gage and guessing how much fuel I needed to fill tank.  However, I will take the advice given you to see if I can get my fuel gage working again.

I have a 34 MKII 1997 and I believe my tank holds 24 gallons.  I burn 0.9 to 1.0 gallons per hour at 1900 to 1950 rpms per hour.

I'll give that a try next year.  Thanks for the advice.

I have a 34, 97 MKII, hull 1307.  I've winterized it three years now and I've never drained the hot water tank.  I pour gallons of antifreeze into each water tank (fore and aft tanks) and run hot and cold faucets until I see pink from all faucets.  This takes about 8 to 10 gallons of antifreeze.  I cut cost by collecting the used antifreeze.  This past spring I collected 5 gallons before it didn't look pink enough to me to reuse.  A fellow boater gave me this suggestion.

Sometimes I think I should try and drain the hot water tank as it takes quite a while to get pink from the hot water faucets, but I look at the valves and they look they have never been opened.

Waterdog,   You and the wife are really going to love the shower.  Our Catalina came standard with the transom shower and we used it for the first time this past Labor Day Weekend.   It was great, about 70 degrees, no wind, sky full of stars, and just the wife and me, and me in the buff, on the back of our boat taking a nice warm shower before bed.   

Waterdog,

There you go.  Stu has all the part numbers you need, I bet.  And, where he bought them.  Ole!

P.S.   I believe you could maybe say half the fleet of 34's with your knowledge.

Waterdog,

You know more about your boat than I do about my six speed fold-up bike.

My opinion was meant to be a little silly; however, I would do something closer to what I suggested than haul all the parts that have been suggested you should have on board.   What if you made a list of all the parts and phone numbers of where to order the parts from and just take said list along with you.   UPS delivers all over the world and most likely in Mexico too.   Hanging out at a new marina waiting for a part could be good therapy for you and your family. 

P.S.  Stu - Waterdog sounds like the tech person Mainsheet is looking for Catalina 34's.   

Waterdog,

Everyone has opinions on what you should take for your Long Cruise and so do I.  Take the minimal.

If you believe your engine is in such bad shape, fix it now.  Install all the parts everyone has told you to buy as it'll be easier to install them now.  Then just take some basic parts everyone carries:  impeller for water pump, belt for generator, WD 40, duck tape and baggies for leftover food.  In the past two years I've taken a 490 and a 450 mile cruise (fresh water) and nothing failed; my Catalina is a 1997.

This is third summer for my boat and this Labor Day weekend anchored out on Pentwater, MI. my wife and I used the stern shower for the first time.  Wow, We had a great shower.  It was about 10:00 PM, 70 degrees, dark out, stars a glow, warm water from motoring that day and she in her bathing suit and me in the buff.  I felt like a kid at 65.   Get your shower fixed and start using it.

You say your pump runs continuously.  I had that problem too this summer.  I finally discovered when I shut off both of my inlet valves to my fore and aft tanks, the pump quit running.  I needed a new check valve.  Will, the check valve is part of the pump and one has to buy the entire pump to get the check valve (about $75.00).  I bought a new pump which came with instructions on how to attach to my existing electric motor.  All is working fine now. 

I also get foam, but only when a tank is empty. To correct this I only draw from one tank at a time and just switch tanks.   I have to turn faucet on and off to get flow going again.

I don't know the brand; however, I bought it at a Napa Auto store.  What I bought comes in a small red can and cost about $7.50 I think.   One can also buy a can that has leak stop/lubricant/leak finder and coolant.  That is what I used first, but it didn't stop my leak.   One must be sure one has 134a coolant in their refrigeration unit.  There will be a tag on your unit to tell you what you have; that is, 134a or something else.

I didn't have anything to loose because if it didn't work I was looking at a $1,467 replacement cost.  The refrigeration guy that gave me the bid said he would only do the job if I replace my evaporator along with the compressor/condensor.  He said if the leak had allowed any air into the compressor, it could ruin the compressor.  I was told this by my friend too, that any air in the compressor is bad for the compressor.  Therefore, one should purge the air out of the adapator tube that goes from can of leak stop and/or coolant to your compressor before charging your unit.   

My refrigerator stopped cooling.

I had two different refrigeration representatives tell me that my evaporator had a leak and that the evaporator and compressor/condensor needed to be replaced.  The low bid was $1,467.00.

My friend, a Catalina 34 MKI owner and an airline mechanic with past experience in refrigation, suggested we try a leak stop.  What did I have to loose, nothing.  We did and it didn't work - the first time.  But the second shot of leak stop with another can of 134a coolant and my frig has been working for over a week.  The 134a coolant cost only $5.00 and the leak stop cost about $7.50.  If anyone is having simular problems, I suggest trying leak stop before spending big $'s on a new unit.  If it stops cooling again, I'll buy some more coolant and leak stop.  (Note:  We had to make an adaptor to fit the valve stem fitting on compressor, but I've now learned Napa Auto sells the adaptor to fit the compressor on our boats.)

I'm envious of you!   Kick some butt!   May the winds be favorable and your beer stay cold.