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1

Main Message Board / Re: Racor filter

« on: October 18, 2021, 05:11:17 AM »

Jim and Ken, thanks for all the good information! Can always count on forum members to provide deep background.
Jon, essentially anything that involves creation of hazardous waste, be it solid, liquid or aerosol. E.G. bottom sanding, oil changing, pickling the engine. I can wax the hull and with permission, install my winter cover.  If it’s a shrink wrap, the yard does it (to avoid errant heat gun accidents, which I was a victim of a couple of times when I had my homemade tarp).
Actually, as I age I don’t mind so much. The yard has a stronger maintenance crew than previously, so I’m more trusting of their work - so far.
Regards,
Ed

2

Main Message Board / Racor filter

« on: October 17, 2021, 05:27:04 PM »

My marina has gone to full service since last year and require all maintenance to be done by the marina. This year when doing the fall decom, they changed from the Racor R24S that I’ve aways used, to a R24P. In other words, 2 microns to 30 microns. What are your thoughts on this? Anyone else using the R24P?
Thanks and regards,
Ed

3

Main Message Board / Re: Securing winter cover while in slip

« on: August 27, 2021, 05:00:01 AM »

I don’t think the type of cover influences the tie down unless it completely envelopes the hull. Otherwise there will always be contact between the hull and tie downs if you don’t offset them like you propose. I’ve had homemade covers of varying coverage as well as my current Fairclough, both tied down across the hull, and have always had ablative paint. No lose of paint. Maybe some light scuffing but nothing that impacted the paint. For my homemade covers I used clothesline cotton line. My Fairclough came with nylon lines. No difference. I would be more concerned with the cover grommets scratching the hull. Be sure to have some backing on them.
Regards,
Ed

4

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing all the Sanitary hoses

« on: August 13, 2021, 05:12:56 AM »

The fittings on the tank are pipe on the hose end, at least for new fittings.
Also, if you go with Trident hose, which is very pricy, you can get the 1 1/2” hose  in 12’ lengths which is much cheaper per foot and should be all you need for a MK1
Regards,
Ed

5

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing all the Sanitary hoses

« on: August 09, 2021, 05:43:06 AM »

A few comments on installation which I did this spring;
1. After leaving the hoses in the sun to soften, I swabbed the inside of the hoses with Lanocote to help slip them over the fittings.
2. Measure the length of the fittings and mark that off on the hose. It will insure you set the hose clamps correctly.
3. Use the good clamps as already suggested
4. Install the lowest hoses first and work up so that you have sufficient room to install and clamp the hoses.
5. Disconnect the mascerator and detach it from the sidewall. It’s easier to attach the new hose, get the right angle and get full slip on to the fittings.
6. It’s easier to fish the toilet hose though from the head to the tank, rather than the reverse, as you can reach under floor liner to grab it and pull thru the final few feet.
7. Don’t forget to replace the vent hose too
8. Use plumbers putty to seal the screw on fittings on the mascerator and vent tank top.

6

Main Message Board / Re: Broken anemometer fin

« on: August 08, 2021, 10:25:34 AM »

One thing to watch out for; a few years back, mine didn’t make it through the winter and I needed to replace it. Got it from Raymarine since I have ST60 instruments. But I couldn’t screw the new unit onto its base on the mast head! Since I was up the aft end of the mast I didn’t have a clear view. Had a yard guy check it out and it turns out the outer diameter of the collar that screws onto the base was larger that the original and was hitting the masthead top. Solution was to grind a few millimeters off the collar all around. Then it screwed on with no problem. So you may want to check that dimension to save a few extra trips up the mast.

Regards,
Ed

7

Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Raw water pump

« on: June 21, 2021, 03:43:08 AM »

As a reminder to all, if your water flow begins to slow and temp creeps up, before pulling the HX and bringing it somewhere to boil out, pull the raw water hose going into the HX and inspect inside the HX nipple. You may find a mineral blockage that you can break up with a screwdriver. It will get you back in business faster. Had to do that yesterday after I noticed slow flow, even though temp was still ok.

Regards,
Ed

8

Main Message Board / Re: M-25XP running hot + white smoke

« on: May 27, 2021, 04:33:03 AM »

Derek,
Is there a normal outflow (subjective, I know) of water from the exhaust?
When you had the HX off did you check for blockages inside the nipple from the raw water inflow with a flashlight? I often get a buildup of salt/calcium that slowly closes it off. Need to break it up with a screwdriver.
Good luck troubleshooting.
Regards,
Ed

9

Main Message Board / Re: Newbie question - 3 blade Prop

« on: May 22, 2021, 05:55:59 AM »

Medved,
Not sure where you are located, but I bought my Flexofold a number of years ago from their Marblehead Ma dealer. That is their US base, or was. Not sure if it is still active. Look up “Flexofold Marblehead” for contact info.
Regards,
Ed

10

Main Message Board / Re: Microwave mounting

« on: May 09, 2021, 07:43:47 AM »

Mine had a loose piece of wood, maybe 1/2”-3/4”, fitted to the base dimensions, with holes drilled out through it for the microwave’s feet. That held in place.

Regards,
Ed

11

Main Message Board / Re: attached cockpit seat cushions

« on: March 05, 2021, 07:02:54 AM »

I use thin no skid rug mats, cut to the cockpit cushion dimension. The captain seat has snaps on a flap on the cushion that attach to a mated snap on the stern coaming.

Regards,
Ed

12

Main Message Board / Re: "Ultimate" rigging and sails for TR/WK

« on: February 05, 2021, 07:12:38 AM »

 Noah,
Do you get any chafing of the vang line at the deck organizer turning block due the angle of entry? To avoid that, I replaced one of the mast base blocks with a double and ran the line from the vang block to the double to the deck organizer. That dropped the line down enough to run fair.

Regards,
Ed

13

Main Message Board / Re: Traveler and Main Sheet Block upgrade

« on: January 30, 2021, 06:44:49 AM »

I thought the risers (correct term?) supporting the main traveler were hollow? If so, what’s the risk of the fair lead getting pulled off?

Regards,
Ed

14

Main Message Board / Re: Well that stinks...(like diesel) plus Plastic Gate Valves

« on: November 21, 2020, 04:28:13 AM »

Unfortunately, my Ace experience wasn’t so good. Bought new plastic valves and barbed fittings, and when I testing the fittings for fit with hoses, they were too big even though stamped as 1/2”. So beware! I ultimately got bronze valves and fittings that match the hoses. To be installed in the spring.

Regards,
Ed

15

Main Message Board / Re: Just overheated the engine

« on: August 03, 2020, 05:21:35 AM »

MR,
In the off chance that your exhaust water had already reduced prior to your incident without being noticed, pull the HX input end of the hose from the RW pump. Verify you don’t have a calcium/salt buildup just inside nipple. I’ve had that happen a few times, now it’s the 1st thing I check when I notice a reduced exhaust flow. Just break it up with a screwdriver if you do see it. You may need a flashlight.

Regards,
Ed