Messages

Hi Ed,

Here is another thought on standing water in the forward part of the cockpit. Our 1986 is at a mooring and moves around a lot with wave and wind action so the cockpit is always dry when boarding. However, when the boat is on the hard for the winter, and is level, we have standing water in the forward part of the cockpit. The only way around this is to block the boat so that it is1.5" high at the bow. When looking at the water line it is clear that the boat is slightly bow high.

So, just another thought other than tankage .... could it be that if you are at a dock the boat does not move enough to lift the forward part of the cockpit ?

Gary

I would recommend a relationship with a sail loft. You need a loft for help sooner or later. It is nice to have a working relationship before an emergency happens. We have the main, and jib washed each season. Included is a sail inspection and 1 hour of repairs for about $240. each season. That includes winter storage...I drop them off each fall and pick up in spring. They are clean, thoroughly inspected, repaired and stored in dry conditions. The washing system also helps restore stiffness to the sail material. This service finds problems in the fall, repaired over the winter, and has you in great shape for a new season.

In your case, taking the sail in now might lead to loss of sail time. Perhaps you could send the loft the pics you have taken and they could provide a repair estimate as well as schedule you in their work flow with a minimum of lost sail days this season.

For us it has identified weak areas in material before the wind does and has given us a working relationship and trust with a sail maker.....saved us a lot of headaches over time for sure.

Gary

To repair the holes use some Devcon 5 Min Epoxy. It is a completely clear 2 part epoxy. Use a pocket knife to fill the hole with mixed epoxy and then just before setting use the sharp knife to scrape a little of the gel coat around the hole into the wet epoxy. Voila, perfect color match and the small scratching of the gel coat does not show either.

You may never be able to find the holes again !!

Gary

Mike,

You may be very right on the dipstick and adding too much oil......our 1986 has never needed a drop of oil but is sure requires pulling the stick to let the oil rise in the dipstick tube to get an accurate check. A first reading can make the engine look a quart or more low.

Thoughtful advice for Braxton !!

Gary

I would try to get your canvas guy on the boat with you. A shared conversation, the chance to discuss options and possibilities might have him seeing a way to modify the existing dodger for you. At the very least he might be able to attach some protection to the dodger.

It seems like pulling the bows back a few inches could solve the problem: re-shape the dodger with nip and tucks, and at worst, new side curtains

Most reputable companies want a happy customer. A shared visit and conversation could provide a solution. Most canvas work is not a one time visit and they should be used to working with their customers to complete the fit. And, mistakes and adjustments are part of the business model in canvas work.

Gary

Another alternative is to work with the loft that made the dodger for you. Canvas is very forgiving and adjustment and re-design is actually part of the install throughout the design and construction processes.

Only your canvas maker can answer this question but it is worth a try to keep the original blocks and locations in place. It is amazing how canvas & bows can be re-configured and repaired. It is common to install new glass, zippers, and to cut and paste canvas structure.

Gary

Rebedding Chainplates, additional hints.

1. Access to the chainplates is behind the starboard and port cushions. You will need two 5/8" box wrenches and some flexibilty  to reach without seeing your work.
2. There are standard thread, stainless 5/8 nuts, lock nuts, washers and spacers. Each chain plate is a set. Be sure to keep the parts together. There are different width spacers, number of washers and even length of bolts for each chain plate. So they are a matched set.
3. Study and follow Mainesails tutorial and use his butyl rubber. It is superior ! It is very easy stuff to work with and is not messy.
4. Clean the chain plates, nuts, bolts and face plates at home with a wire brush mounted on a 3/8 drill. You can house the drill and wirebrush in a vise and hold the stainless parts with a vise grip. Or if you have a bench mounted wire brush even easier. All parts will clean up like new. Don't rush. Take a cup of coffee to your work area and clean the parts carefully...take your time being immaculate with this work.
5. It is good to have help with the re-install. One person on deck and one below decks tightening the stainless nuts. There should be a nut and lock not on each. Mine was missing a number of lock nuts....go figure!
6. Do not use butyl ribber or any caulk below decks on the chainplates. You want to know right away if any water is getting by the deck faceplates so as not to get water into the deck core.

It is a very intuitive process and pretty straightforward work with the help of the board and its tutorials......just thought I would add what I have experienced in doing this job. Everyone will need to do this as preventive maintenance at some point.

Gary

Hi Kevin,

If you are referring to the shower sump pump this should be the model http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/pump-shower-bilge-12v-4.5-gpm-7.5-amp-120446/4,52515.html

Replaced ours this spring (1986 C34). The model was a perfect replacement to the original including attachment screw holes. It also includes an inline strainer to be installed between the sump and pump.

Gary

Thanks for the response Rick. It is always nice to hear the feedback on problem solving and close the loop.

Glad to hear that leaving the knob open a half turn cooled the pump down. It did that for KIJE and a new Facet Fuel Pump. Let's hope it cures the stall out problem as well :):)

Gary  

Good questions Stu.

You have put what I was wondering about into clear ideas. I am wondering too if Rick's fuel tank pick up may blocked and need to be removed. If that filter is still in place it can cause the engine to falter after running for an hour.

Also wondering if newer Facet pumps operate at a higher pressure than older models and do overheat without fuel flow through them. Since I am not an engineer or an expert in these matters this remains a question in my mind. Perhaps others have and can add more understanding to Stu's questions.

Interesting thread ?

Gary

Hi Rick,

I am pretty sure you will find the pump runs cool with the return line know open 1/2 turn. Many C34 owners say they do this anyway as a way to continuously "polish fuel" in the tank and always leave it about a 1/2 turn open.  The interesting and unanswered question is why this works ? Does it indicate a blockage somewhere else ?  I will say that I was alarmed at the heat from the new pump and in 6 seasons can report that this solution has worked without any follow up problem.

Like the California drink offer :):) ~ please post and let us know if this solves your problem !

Gary

Installed a new Facet in our 1986, C34 with an M-25 engine some years ago and had the same overheating problem. Even took it back and tried another new Facet pump. Same problem.

Solution: leave your knurled fuel return line on the engine open 1/2 a turn and the fuel flow keeps the Facet nice and cool.

Have had no further problems.

Gary

Anxious to launch? So are we and wanted to share this video for those waiting for warmer weather and melted snow at the boatyard.

Here is a youtube video by our middle son documenting his first boat,  a J-24, located on Casco Bay, Portland Maine. Also included, youngest son in a 1964, personally refurbished (including sails) Pearson Commander, and of course Dad & Mom in the 86 C-34.  Multiple friends & family share in the fun: raft ups, dock parties, evening sailing and open water  .......

SAILING 2014.  <www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTiJtTMOFo>

Hoping for many more years of memories like this !

Gary

An alternative to moving the rope clutches is to have a sail maker sew in a piece of stamoid where the clutch makes contact with the glass. My son, a canvas expert, has done this for us only at the location of the starboard main & jib halyard clutch. The port spinnaker and spare halyard clutches are not opened often enough on our boat to make the change there.

It is a good design and has worked well.

Gary

I did do an LED anchor light replacement but I am sorry, just cannot remember the exact numbers for that bulb.  Here is the source I used for that anchor light as well as interior cabin lights. The anchor light is highly visible and very low current draw <www.doctorled.com> !

The anchor light was polarity sensitive and would not work if not installed with correct positive and negative orientation.

Best suggestion is to to pull your bulb and do an exact replacement.

Gary