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Steve Dolling sailed his C34 from British Columbia to Mexico.  He wrote some incredibly detailed and helpful reports.  This is one of them:  [scroll up to get to the beginning]

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5270.msg33610.html#msg33610

In it is included this gem:

- scupper hoses - I replaced these "above waterline" hoses with whatever cheap crap the guy at West Marine said would be good.   When you have a big following sea off the Oregon coast at 2 o'clock in the morning, your scupper hoses are not above the water and there is no comfort in cheap hoses that could get ripped if something shifted down there - I replaced these in Coos Bay with exhaust style hose.

What would you suggest to clean the hull surface?

Acetone.

Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6)  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462

Unsaid is if coolant level was checked.

Check hoses to water heater.  See Critical Upgrades topic.

The downside of those vents is they seem to accumulate mud dauber nests and clog easily.

After owning my boat for 25+ years now, and reading everything (and writing a few), I have begun to suspect that the "fault" of the vented stanchions has never been a leak at the deck to stanchion base, but rather the hose clamp becoming loose where the vent line connects to the base of the stanchion.  Water gets in the hole in the stanchion and as it passes into the hose, the loose connection, which has no barbs, allows slow leaks.  I have no conclusive proof of this theory of mine, just popped into my head in looking at this post.

My port side is still pristine over the nav station, some evidence of leakage on starboard over the forward end of the dish storage in the galley.  Both of those vents are actually within the wooden boxes just forward of ash battens.  anything further aft would have be coming from leaking fixed portlights.

Jib Size Selection 101
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7704.0.html

I couldn't find a picture of the switch that is just below the bath sink I did find pictures of the switch that had a rubber boot on it. Was this the switch that will empty the shower pan?? The first picture is just before I tore out the bulkhead, second picture is the switch with out the boot and the third is the back the switch in the hanging locker

No.  Please refer to Noah's pictures for the position of the shower sump switch and his and Jon's descriptions of where the pump is located, OEM.

That makes much more sense, thanks for the details.

Yes, that's Aquavite in my avatar picture; taken at dawn on Lost Slough in the California Delta.

Peter, Ours is an ex-Georgian Bay boat that one of her previous owners removed the aft water tank from, and plumbed all the taps (galley, head, cockpit shower, deck wash) with lake water.

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 and I may flip the forward tank to supply taps, and lake water to supply spigot, and deck wash.

Man, o man...after all that good work you did cleaning your system, and you are proposing to STILL use lake water anywhere near the domestic water system on your boat...you are crazy.     You do what you are proposing the lake water still gets in the system right?  You only have one domestic water pressure pump.

You do realize it was the crap in the LAKE water itself that made the smell to begin with?  Surely you do...

Are you actually sailing in a place where you can't get 20-30 gallons of fresh city water?  If you use a bucket to get lake water to wash your dishes, that single water tank can last two people a long time...including showers.

Removed the teak trim piece and can feel wires inside the small space but a, having a hard time getting them down.

It seems they are held up by some type of screwed-in wire tie? I can't see up in the channel. Anyone know what's holding the wires above the bookshelves on the starboard side on an MKII?

Get a mirror and a flashlight.  Both should be basic gear 101.  I've BTDT.

There was never a Southern California Catalina 34 Fleet.  The reason is geography, it is simply too large an area to support a one design fleet.  There is/was an All Catalina Fleet there, at least at one time, don't know if it's still active.  Unfortunately, Mainsheet magazine discontinued publishing fleet contact information some five years ago.  We objected, but they turned a deaf ear.

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Anybody have any experience with electric propulsion on a Catalina 34?

I've been here "since forever," and, no, I don't recall anyone installing one, much less even discussing the possibility.


Issues you will always find when doing research on the subject:
What voltage; if different than 12V how do you deal with 12V equipment; where do you put all the batteries (OK, now empty engine space);  how big do my batteries need to be; what's my range; will LiFePO4 batteries work...

You know all the usual suspects. 

Please keep us advised.  This would make an excellent article for Mainsheet magazine.

I have pictures but I don't know how I bring in the forum

Posting and RESIZING Photos 101  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3701.0.html

It's called SUPER SIPHON, was at least when I bought mine 10 years ago.

Aaron, that's not quite how it works.  Even with a modestly depleted bank, and certainly a larger one of 400 ah, the initial load has been documented at 50-60A, sometimes however for short periods of time as the charge amperage tapers off based on battery acceptance - the fuller it gets the less it will take.  However, with an internally "challenged" damaged battery bank, that bank is always going to "asking" for as much as you can throw at it with essentially unlimited acceptance.  Regulators know nothing about alternator temperature and only work on the electrical signals from the battery sense wire which controls the field current and thus the alternator output.  If the requested input exceeds your available AO or size, the alternator is working full out.  Small case alternators are not made for continuous output beyond 50-60% of their rating.