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I had a similar problem in Puget Sound.  The boat went sideways instead of backwards when I put it in reverse.  My slip is the first on the dock with no port side  finger pier and  the wind was blowing such that she was immediately swung into the dock's gantry. So I was stuck fending off with a boat hook and no steerage .  Fortunately, a passing fellow sailor got a hand on a bow line we were able to get her back along side the finger pier.  The diver said the Max prop and shaft were heavily encrusted with many layers of barnacles.  I have made it a habit to spin the prop every 2 weeks whether or not I take her out.   Apparently, this is no longer sufficient.

I used 3/8" line when I installed adjustable cars on Peregrine.  At the time Garhauer told me that either 3/8" or 5/16" would be fine.  I used 3/8" because I happened to have it on-hand.  The 3/8" works fine but 5/16" should have the advantage generating a little less friction running through the blocks.  I don't know if the difference would be noticeable.

I have the WS 45 which I believe is the successor to the WS 1.  I had a problem with my masthead transducer a couple of years ago and contacted Standard Horizon about it.  Even though they no long manufacture wind instruments, they had me send the  instrument (but not the transducer) to them so that they could bench test it. Once they established that the instrument was functioning correctly, they sent me a new transducer. If I recall correctly, the total cost was about $99.00 and one trip up the mast.

Given the size of the heat-sink.  It might  be a battery isolator.

I assume everyone knows by now but just in case anyone hasn't heard - Catalina has discontinued the manufacture of the C 36 and is replacing it with the C 375.  This was confirmed by none other than Gerry Douglas on the C 36 email list earlier this week.

Peregrine has the old style PSS shaft seal.  I have not had any problems, including any noise, in the 6 years I have owned the boat. I 'burp' the seal only after haul-outs, and after a diver cleans the bottom and/or changes zincs.

 We live about 15 Miles straight west of downtown Seattle but a world away on the Kitsap peninsula.  We pay about $164.00 a month for a slip (the price includes unmetered electricity) for our C34.  Of course the down side is that it is an ~hour commute by ferry, if you work or live on the Seattle side of the Sound.  My employer is a Seattle firm but I work from home and our house is only a couple of miles from the marina so the commute is not an issue for us. 

I agree with previous posts that the area is one of the great places to cruise and race. It does get a bit soggy and cool during the monsoon season but I find it a great time to catch up on maintenance and upgrades. 

 Don't know but on your '88 C34 we keep them in the center draw under the v-birth.  Since the water is cool year around in the Pacific Northwest, the Cab stays at a perfect drinking temperature.

I was reluctant to reply because of the time that has passed since the incident.  But about 4 years ago "Peregrine" was hit by another sailboat while sitting in her berth.  The result was a nasty 1/4'' deep by 4'' long gouge in the transom along the edge than begins the reverse.   

I took the boat over to Seaview West at Shileshole to have it repaired.  After almost 4 years I still cannot see the difference between the repaired and non repaired areas.   I have keep the area waxed to help slow the effects of UV on the gelcote but I am sure I will eventual be able to see the repaired areas.  I am impressed because the match was good enough to last this long.

As mentioned, I cannot give a whole hearted endorsement because of the passage of time but you may want to give them consideration.

I have hull #543 and have done the Sherwood to Oberdorfer replacement.  It was direct, that is; disconnected the hoses, unbolted the Sherwood, bolted on the Oerdorfer, and connected the hoses.  Everything fit.

However, the PO did the original conversion in the other direction so I do not know what, if any, modifications he made to make it work.

I think the Oberdorfer has a little less capacity than the Sherwood but I am not sure. After the exchange the engine seemed to run a few degrees warmer in the summer.  Perhaps 164 degrees verses 161 degrees but this difference could have many other causes.