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Instead of putting bumpers on the line you might try a couple of pool noodles on each side.  The noodles have a hole in the middle that would easily accept a 1/2" or 5/8" line and you can buy them (seasonally) at the Dollar Store for, you guessed it:  $1.00! 

Thanks Hawk and everyone else offering suggestions.  Based on the strong recommendation and lower price I ordered the Garhauer motor lift.  Will use just the lift this year and consider purchasing another for a full dinghy lift; great idea!

Stu,
It is the (outboard) lift that I am interesed in, not the dinghy lift.  The outboard lifts come with either a 26" or 34" arm.  I am wondering which I need for a 2005 Mk II.

Thanks...

Garhauer has two motor lifts, one with 26" arm and a larger version with 34" arm.  Which one would be used on the C34 as an engine lift alone or in tandem as discssed here as a dinghy lift?

My geuss is that those that have suggested to stay with fabric have no experience with Ultra Leather.  I had fabric on an older C 30 and at the suggestion of the dealer went with the Ultra Leather when we purchased our C34.  The fabric got dirty easily, was hard to clean, held odors like glue and was uncomfortable on hot, muggy days.  The Ulra leather is exactly the opposite; it's hard to get dirty, very easy to clean, does not hold odors and is always comfortable regardless of the weather or what you happen to be wearing when you sit on it.  Like Ron said, you get what you pay for...  All things considered I feel the Ultra Leather is a down right bargain!

Ron,
A friend checked the voltage, resistance, etc.  All checked out and the voltage at the fuel guage was 11 volts.  We figured a full tank would give us a reading of 12 volts and I know the tank is just shy of full so 11 volts would seem to indicate that the problem is not with the sending unit but with the guage itsef.  Would you agree?

My fuel guage needs to be replaced.  Where do I get a replacement for a standard Catalina guage that would have been used in 2004?

Yup, just as I thought... I guess I know what I'm doing next weekend...  Now if only the darn bolts were facing front instead of being accessable only from behind the water pump.  Wonder who was asleep when they designed that one? 

I replaced my Sherwood impeller this afternoon;  after I had buttoned everything up and started the engine I realized that I had not put in the "O" ring.  There is no leak anywhere around the pump.  Can I leave the water pump in without the "O" ring or am I looking for trouble by not putting in the ring?

Just to clarify a couple of points:  First, the gauge goes down to zero or lowest temp when the key is turned off.  It's only when I turned the key on that the gauge immediately shot up to 150.  From there it quickly went up to 240, the max reading.  At no point did the alarm sound and in fact when I checked the engine after it had been running for a while it was clear that the actual engine temp was in the normal range.  From what I gather the most likely culprit is a bad ground either at the sending unit or at the gauge itself.  I will check all connections next weekend.

What is "burping" the engine?  I just started it as usual for the first time and it started right up.  The engine sounds right and certainly seems to be running at the correct temp.  All is well except what the gauge is telling me.

Used boat this weekend for first time this season and aside from problem with faulty engine temp sensor or gauge (described separately) I found the refrigerator does not get cold.  The compressor seems to be running constantly but does not have any effect on temp regardless of the setting of thermostat.  I'm inclined to think that I have a leak with the coolant (freon?).  Thoughts???

I used the boat for the first time this season and noticed that the needle was pinned at 240 degrees after running for under 10 minutes.  I tested the thermostat on stove and it opens so no problem there.  Left the boat overnight and when I checked the temp in the am before starting the engine the gauge was at 150.  Within 2 minutes of starting the engine the needle is once again pegged at 240.  Clearly I don't have a problem with the engine but with either the gauge or sending unit.  From what I have described above any ideas which one is the culprit?

Joel,
I can't add much to what has been said since I have the 2000 and run it on the swim platform as we have a walk thru transom.  That said, if you only want to charge your batteries go with the 1000.  You will need the 2000 if you want to be able to use the hot water heater, microwave (if you have one), hair dryer, etc.  If you don't need the generator for the creature comforts then go with the 2000: lighter weight. less expensive and perhaps smaller (not sure if there is a size difference).  I would also caution you NOT to store a gas generator in a locker unless you run the tank dry.  Gas vapors will find their way into the bilge or engine compartment where you don't want them. 

Is the impeller's worst enemy salt?  I put a "Y" valve right by the raw water intake and when I leave the boat for the weekend I turn the valve and flush with fresh water.  Instead of leaving the boat with salt water from the intake to heat exchanger and muffler, there is fresh water throughout including the impeller.  This system also makes it a breeze to run anti-freeze through the system when it's time to winterize.