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Thanks for the advice and input. As Chuck Hughes, Sand Save #223 wrote in his thorough directions to rebedding ports, ".Here are the Basic Steps to re-rebed leaking C34 Beckson ports if working in a perfect world
No truer words were written. Job is almost complete, a couple of gaskets are almost fully in place.
Now to address my fuel filler hose leak/replacement.
BTW, I will be going to the Catalina Rendezvous on Block Island, Rhode Island. I hope to have all projects all behind me. Hope to see you there.

Thanks for the input.
I am sure that "The Captain" would have only used silicone as I have in following the directions. Perhaps the PO,  before my PO, used 5200.
If the final one I tackle has 5200, should I leave it as is and just silicone on a new trim ring, and install a new gasket and screen?
Installing the gasket does get me and the Admiral up close and personal as our 4 arms intertwine to press the gasket into the groove!

I started last year re bedding the 6 Beckson ports on Kindred Spirit, There were some leaks that were annoying, and after my 20th season with the boat I decided with the help from the Teck Wiki instructions to take on the project. The first one I tackled was a breeze, the trim ring came off easily, and the port nearly fell out on it's own. The second and third went well, the third needing the port puller tool to remove. And yes, you need to give yourself about 2 hours a port.
This year I'm attempting to finish the job, Port 4 came out using the puller. In about 3 hours I had it installed. Yesterday I went after port 5. From 9:30am to 4:30 pm I was pulling, peeling, and praying that it would come out. It seems that 3M 5200 was used to install it. I broke one port puller, made another, with thicker wood, and broke that one too trying to remove the port as I scraped and peeled around the port. My wife came to help and suggested putting some solvent around the port. So I tried Interlux Paint remover, which seemed to dissolve the 5200 into a curdled milk consistency. It came out finally.

Here are my questions:
1. Was the 5200 used in 1986 by Catalina to first install the ports? I believe the PO was the one who wrote the Teck Wiki directions and would not have used it.
2. On my final one, if I confront 5200 again should I just silicone on a new trim ring and install a new gasket and screen?
3. Is there an easier way to put the gaskets on the port? It seems inches too small to get around on the first try. We had 4 hands, and a partially closed window to hold and manipulate the gasket into the groove, which is still not fully installed.

I tried numerous methods to install the prior gaskets. I super lubed (BIG MISTAKE), boiled to soften them,  left in the sun to warm them. They are in, and the ports don't leak. But I have one partially in and 2 more to install. My dock neighbors are getting annoyed with my language as I curse my way through the process. Help!

I have an older PYI or PSS dripless on my 1986. I did replace it a few years back with the same one, non vented. I do be sure, excuse the what comes next, to "burp" the fitting to remove any air caught in the bellows when the boat is launched, or after a diver, (me), cleans the bottom. I have had no issues with this. If you don't "burp" it, it will get hot and make a harmonic sound like a finger going around a wine glass.

Sailor's Choice, Amityville

➤ LOCATION
144 Ocean Ave.
Amityville, NY 11701
☎ CONTACT
sailorchce@aol.com
(631) 264-2279

Sailmaker is Jim Reichel. He made me a new jib, modified my mainsail to make it a loose footed, and made me a new sail cover and binnacle cover. He also services my dock neighbor's Catalina 32. I highly recommend him.

The plot thickens...I got the pump working, but the engine was running hot. I removed the upgraded 3 inch heat exchanger, installed 6+ years ago. Blockage was the issue. Boiled it out, I now have great water flow, and an engine that doesn't overheat and maintains a constant 158 degrees. Just in time for a Father's Day sail.

Sailing Jerry.
I too had a major increase in my Geico/BoatUS premium, almost double what last year was. I called Progressive, got the same coverage I had for less than my original premium.

Thanks again for all the input. Hopefully problem solved. Now on to the next project...and go sailing!

[what brand switch did you get?]

I don't know if I missed it but what brand switch did you get? My Guest, non mercury float switch failed in under 2 years. I replaced it with another Guest, non mercury switch. At least the holes matched!

Thanks for all the input. I did remove and discard the paper gasket, re-polished the face plate, removed and inspected new impeller, reinstalled. I noticed that I didn't install the inside washer on the impeller, so I did. Used glycerin as a lubricant. I noticed that when I opened the thru-hull, the  pump wasn't filling with water. So I removed the raw water hose and filled it with water, then reinstalled it. when I opened the thru-hull, water slowly came out of the bleeder.
It took a few seconds for water to pump after I started, but it was pumping well at low speed, faster at 2000 rpm. Engine temp leveled out at 158 degrees and all was well for 15 minutes.
I appreciate all the suggestions. I will purchase OEM parts next time as a kit, impeller and o-ring. I really don't put many hours on the engine seasonally, I work at burning a tank of fuel so I don't have old fuel in the tank.
I think I'll go 3 years next time!
I go sailing Wednesday, that will be the final test.

Thanks. I read the Oberdorfer descriptions on Catalina Direct about the o-ring replacing the paper gasket. I did order an o-ring from them to replace the older one.
On my way to the boat to try again.

Let me set the stage: currently my raw water pump is not working. Every 2 years I replace the impeller although I regret doing it as I take out a working one in very good shape and replace it with a $58 new one that currently is not working. (This has happened before.)
I take out the pump shaft with the impeller, remove the snap ring, install new impeller, replace snap ring. I lightly sand the inside of the pump, sand and polish the face plate, install new paper gasket, remove o-ring on pump, polish the face of the pump, reinstall the old o-ring.( i spent 2 hours trying to find a new one, no luck).
Tighten the 4 screws evenly, open the thru-hull, bleed the air out of the pump, and when I start the engine it seems to be pumping at 50%, but maintaining the 158 degree engine temp. I go sailing and when I start the engine to return to the dock, it is not pumping. I make it to the dock before the engine  temp exceeds 180.
The last time it was this bad I replaced the entire water pump, as it was also weeping. This pump is less than 10 years old, not weeping and had been through 4 successful impeller changes.  What is going on? 

Hi Jon,

We are not permitted on the premises. Our launch date is mid May. perhaps by then things will improve...

Dave

I received this from Safe Harbor, Greenport, NY

Marina Temporarily Closed
We're working hard to remain current with respect to all state and federal regulations, as well as their guidance. We're typically out ahead of them. During this temporary closure, we only have essential staff on property to protect vessels and the environment on which we operate. Please know that all launching and service has been postponed.

We are actively assessing the COVID-19 situation and will continue to take all necessary actions in the best interest of the health and safety of our employees and Members. Please continue to check your email for updates and we appreciate your understanding during these times.
Sincerely,
General Manager
SAFE HARBOR GREENPORT/STIRLING

I am scheduled for a mid-May launch. Maybe...
Dave Comando

Speaking of decals, I was wondering if there were any C34 decals available. Just like the one on the sail cover, (ten years ago I bought a pair for $25, this year they were $75). Anyway, the same logo, red and white with the C over the 34, rhombus shaped, about 3-4 inches? Adhesive backing, I'll worry about removing them a few years from now!