Messages

Thanks for the replies. Do you both keep it assembled full time? I was going to put it away till needed. Will probably use it 8-10 times a season.

Recently purchased a Garhauer Lifting Davit Engine Hoist LD 6-1 Short. I have a MK1 with stearn seats and a large bimini. Looking for ideas on where to install this. The seats and bimini may be an issue. See pics. Pictures would be great to see how others have installed this. Tired of climbing up and down the swim ladder with my 56 lb. outboard to the dinghy. Engine mounts on stern stb rail.

Had a similar issue with increased vibration a few years ago. Have an '88. Motor mounts not too old and in good shape. Checked alignments multiple times. Would run smooth over 1500 rpm. Had the original injectors rebuilt. Still having issue. Finally found that the glassed deck pad for the Aqualift was detaching from the hull. Repaired pad and all is well.

Stu and Ron-
Thanks for the responses. I just ordered a LinkLite battery monitor. I've been meaning to do this for awhile. You sold me. I do plan on making the change for the echo charger wiring. (makes sense)
The voltmeter on the engine instrument panel is powered only by the starter battery. It always reads a steady ~12.5V except when starting with the glow plugs. (have solenoid setup) With the old alternator and regulator, I could see the voltmeter jump up to ~14V when charging. Since the tachometer is working, I probably don't need to worry about the voltmeter as the alternator is working.
My battery charger is a Xantrex 20A, which shares the total amperage output. I will disconnect the output to the starter battery giving me the 20A to the house batteries. The echo charger will take care of the charge to the starter battery.

I replaced my instrument panel about 3 years ago due to moisture behind the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge was dead. The new one looks great. At that time I never thought of checking the tach settings because a sticker said it was preset, the idle was the same and cruising at 2800 rpm at 5.5 knots was the same. However, after installing the new high output alternator and checking the accuracy with the handheld tachometer, the outcome is completely different. Now I cruise at 2600 rpm doing 6.5 knots.
The new tachometer has a dial switch but the old original one had the dip switches. Go to this:  http://c34.org/manuals/  and get the Teleflex manuals along with a handheld tachometer to confirm. Also do a search on this form for Teleflex for much more information.

The only disappointment I have had with my 1988 MKI boat is the lack of auxiliary power, especially when needed. I have had Andiamo for over ten years. Over those years, I have done multiple upgrades, from wiring harness, new instrument panel, and the Jim Moe electrical setup to name a few. This year I installed a new Blue Circle high output alternator and Xantrex external regulator. (had a Proline alternator with an external Proline regulator installed by a previous owner) I also installed a new #2 wire from the alternator to the main battery bank. This is where it gets good. After starting the engine, I noticed the tach was idling close to 2000 rpm's. I went and downloaded the dip switch setting for teleflex and purchased a handheld digital tachometer. Next I pulled the tach and found I did not have dip switches but a dial switch (A thru E) set at C. It had a sticker stating the tach was set for a Catalina XP25. I changed the switch to  D and checked the tach using the handheld tach. They both matched. Idle at 900 rpm's and checked again at 1500 rpm's. Went out with the boat, not looking at the tach, just going by sound and speed, noticed I was doing my normal 5 to 5.5 knot speed. Then I noticed the tach was only at 2000 rpm's. Went below and rechecked engine with handheld. Still matching. Checked manual for cruising rpm's, 2100 - 2600 with max of 3200. Bumped up throttle to 2600. Rechecked with handheld. Still matching but the engine never reved so high (sound wise). Now doing 6.5 knots. I have never had the boat go so fast under power. My wife thought she was in a power boat instead of the usual dingy. All of these years I have been running underpowered without knowing. So, I highly recommend checking your tachometer with a handheld.
Now for a question I would like to throw out there. With this new setup, I noticed the voltmeter always reading at ~12.5V. Checked alternator output, ~14.2V. Looking at Jim's diagram, the starter and house batteries are isolated except for the echo charger. The voltmeter seems to be reading only the starter side. How can this be changed to read the alternator output? Is it a wiring issue to the new regulator I missed? Any thoughts?
Also, if I remove the charger from the starter battery, as recommended, can that line be connected to the house side doubling the charge? I have the 20 amp Xantrex charger. Is the 20 amp split between the two lines or are they both 20 amp?

These discussions have been so informative. Thanks again Peggy for sharing all your knowledge with us. So................what is the best vent hose and mushroom thru hull size? Do want to go bigger. Does anyone have a picture of what the mushroom fitting looks like installed just below the toe rail?

Steve and Ron-
Do you just use the exhaust wrap by itself? If so, how many wraps would you recommend, 2 -3 wrap layer with a 1/4 inch overlap? I had 1/2 inch fiberglass insulation wrap under the exhaust wrap. Is this needed? I assume the exhaust temperature is less than 1200 degree F. Did you finish with the aluminized silver, self adhesive tape over the exhaust wrap?

Thanks,
Kelley

I recently removed my exhaust manifold for inspection, since I had it repaired 6 years ago. I am looking for ideas on what I can use for replacement insulation. The 'cloth' wrap is still good.

Last spring I had the same leak. Mine came from the screws at the base of the pedestal guard which are just screwed into the deck. Removed and sealed with polysulfide.

Chris-
What kind of mat do you use under your generator when placed in front of the mast? I use an old towel just to keep the rubber feet from leaving marks. Some type of thicker material makes sense as it will help absorb some of the vibrations.

I am replacing my old cracked horseshoe life ring with a Lifesling 2. Looking for ideas on where to mount it (outside rail of course). I have a 1988 MK1 with stern perch seats. On the side opposite of the stern light, I have an outboard motor mount. I can attach the top Velcro strips to the rail on a side, but no where for the one in the center to firmly secure it. Pics would be great.

I purchased the West Marine Sweet Water aerator 2 years ago. Save your money. It does not work. The theory made so much sense though. It was always on when at the dock, off when sailing. At the dock, there was always a hint of odor. You also had to learn to tune out the noise of the pump. I installed it under the sink in the head. I even tried the fresh water route. I have found the best fix is to use the head often, and pump-out frequently. (with a rinse a freshwater at pumpout)