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I'd think that answering which caulk to use someone has to put eyes on the situation. Is there a yard or marina person?

If the caulk needs to harden up I'd guess silicone would work. Other caulks generally stay soft and flexible.  If it's deep then foam backer rod might be needed to fill the gap before caulking.
Or if its a gag between to immovable pieces epoxy and gel coat over.

If the screws need bedding I wouldn't bed fasteners w/o first potting the holes. No matter what you do it's likely that water will eventually get thru and potting keeps it from rotting the substrate.
https://pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck

Look up Tite-Seal.
Here's pictures of how butyl tape applies.
https://pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Thanks for the links.  At least it will help me learn what questions to ask and some terminology.  At my yard they don't do anything for free.  A few years ago we had them tighten a belt that wouldn't stay tight for me.  They ran the engine and ended up with 2 hours labor to check the entire engine while running.  to add insult to injury, when we got back in the spring there was some water in the bilge and I asked if maybe the worker didn't make sure the strainer was tight when they put the water plug in to run the engine on the hard.  He came out to the yard to tell me absolutely not, the water must be from another source.  There was an additional 15 minutes labor charge at 120 per hour for that 15 minute answer.  (which was very fishy since in all 21 years of ownership, that was the only time there was some water in the bilge.)  I guess there are no easy straight answers, even with a pic of the current deteriorated caulk in the super zoomed pic.  I've got some reading and studying to do.

Randy

Is this a sliding door or hinged?  Apologies, I'm still having a difficult time focusing in on exactly what's going on.
I dont like recommending fixes unless i know exactly what im dealing with.

Is the door sliding past or hinging against the (gasket?) material or is if just filling a gap that is "stationary"?
IIWMB generally I'd want to get rid of bad material and replace it rather than gob something on top of bad. Unless its temporary until i can make a proper fix.
For under it i would want to get sealant UNDER where water can enter not just slather caulk against an edge. Possible using the sticky 2-side neoprene flashing tape used (or *should* use) when installing exterior doors and windows.  I think it comes in different widths and could be cut as narrow as needed. Tite-Seal is one brand.  Or possibly set it in butyl tape?  Or butyl caulking?
I didn't see whete you said what boat it is?  Have you checked in in the Trawler Forum? There's usually some good recommendations there.

I appreciate any and all ideas!  Last question is easiest.  I joined 2 trawler forums and one has a sub group of Helmsman.  After several weeks received one reply from a helmsman 38E future owner (his new helmsman is on order).  I was so used to the great response from C-34 owners.

It is a sliding door, and on the inside is a weak brushy type "seal", (if you can even call it that) that might help keep water out that is driving in from the side.  Picture # 4215cc shows both the bottom of the door on the slider as well as the wood door jam and the dark gap.  I tried to blow up and lighten the gap area that does seem to have some firm/harder substance filled in (#4214ccc  attached in this reply- you can also see the grey material as well as the brushlike seal inside).  The gap is at the bottom end of the wood and I suspect the water trickles down (you can see green algae along the edge of the wood in the pic).  The gap is about 1 1/2 inched by 5/8 inch wide. Seems like I need to remove the door and create enough space to fulling fill the entire gap. 

Pic #4223 shows the left side of the door since it was less in the shadow.    at the top of that pic  you can see a bit of a chalky caulk and here's a pic of a close up of that.  but toward the bottom of 4223cc you can see there is no caulk, so my thought was to go ahead and remove the old chalky caulk and put a small bead of caulk the entire length of bot side of the door "jamb".  the left side of the door jamb is a plastic piece, and the right side of the door jamb is that wood piece with a gap at the bottom.  What kind od caulk would be best?  A blow up of the left side caulk is here in pic # 4224cc.  I'm just trying to figure out the best caulk to seal the edges of both sides where any rain and washing water might get in.  and to me, if I am removing the door, why not go ahead and clean the areas around the bottom piece that goes on the deck and when remounting, what to use to reseal screws in case water is finding it's way under that plastic piece that serves as a guide for the bottom of the sliding door.  Hoping for guidance as I've not used Butyl anything nor 2 sided tape.  ((I miss my Catalina more every day.  The surveyor found only three screws that should be rebedded (2 different screws on 2 different rail stanchions and one anchor well screws.  all chainplates perfect, and no leaks anywhere, and hull and deck in great shape).)

and the front edge to recaulk, and the bottom track to remove and reseal?

Got a much closer look, but the pic still does not show that much.  The gap was filled at some point with what is a firm grey material, actually pretty firm, but I think there must be gaps allowing water to come in.  am thinking about the drilling holes and filling with epoxy and having a smooth finish of the epoxy where it meets the surrounding fiberglass and wood "molding".  Also, what caulk would you use to put between the wood and the fiberglass.  Have a pic of the front side of the door showing that it,too, needs new caulk, and maybe best to pull off the old caulk and start fresh.  What do you all think?  while I'm at it, might just remove the door, as it looks like I should rebed the lower plastic that goes to the bottom of the deck, as water seems to gather there too.  do I use butyl tape to bed the screws?

Randy

What I mean is, above the hole looks like some sort of "gasket?" where the bottom has been torn off.  Am I hallucinating?
If its sort of a gasket it it just in a seam, or is something (door?) sealing against it?
The close up is too close to tell what's there.

I should have had my explorer tool with me, and hadn't even thought it might be the remnants of a gasket.  If it is a gasket, it was an utter failure.  Might have to see if I can remove the door completely to make it easier to get at.  Hope to get to it in early June.

If there is wood under/in there; I would dig out any soft wood, then drill a grid of small pilot holes and flush area with a solution of borate powder and water, for fungus prevention—then dry it out (again) and inject in thin/penetrating epoxy. Then, top off with thickened epoxy and then matching paint.

Thank you.  I will do a better job of exploring the area the next time I am over to the boat.  Hadn't considered the borate or the pilot holes, or making it a multistep process.  Great advice.

Randy what's that above the gap?

I am so appreciative of the above replies.  It is the bottom of the aft end of the doors of the pilot house.  Survey found current moisture on port side, and old leak by dry on starboard side.  this is an old cropped pic of the general area.  Is butyl gasket the same as butyl tape?  I was wondering of cleaning it out after drying with a dental type pick and maybe injecting epoxy.  I just want to make sure it is dry and sealed going forward.

One of the things I will miss the most (besides my beloved Voyager) is the helpfulness and body of experience from the members here.  I find no such comparable group in the trawler world.  If a gap on a Catalina existed similar to picture, where water was wicking down the edge of a door and getting inside the boat, what would one use to fill that void?  (the water was enough to discolor the inside, but I'd like to seal it after drying it thoroughly before tending to the finish inside.)

I got to attend the survey on Voyager.  I sure wish the survey on the trawler was as positive as Voyager.  I am still mourning her sale.

Thank you, everyone! I'll pick up some FSR this week. Once the stains are gone, the hull will definitely be receiving a much-needed polish.

Ron, raising the bottom paint is a good idea. If I run out of patience cleaning the white stripe, I may just do that.

I usually put on the FSR generously, working my way along one side of the boat.  Then I go over the same side with attention to the more stubborn stains.  FSR keeps my boot stripe and the little white line between the boot stripe and bottom paint looking sharp.   Then I wash off the FSR after that second scrub.  then just apply cleaner wax, which keeps the yellow from attaching.

I am sure we ALL can relate the excitement of new vs the sadness of passing on a tried and true well loved vessel. Thanks for sharing the story and congrats on the new vessel.

I must admit, it's 99% sadness.  My life was so stable and I was so content to continue to do what we have been doing since 86.  I know moving about in the comfort of an inside cabin, and having a walk around bed and a huge engine room and a real refrigerator might be "easier", but I am really struggling to wrap my head around not being a sailor.  I just loved sitting in the cockpit, out of the wind with my great canvas, playing some tunes, sipping a cocktail as the sun sank into the horizon.  Sigh!

I posted this on my Facebook page today: " I said a sad goodbye to a very dear friend yesterday.  She and I were very close, and traveled together nearly 1500 days at sea in the last 21 years, sailing over 20,000 miles in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  She took us to hundreds of tropical islands and well as remote anchorages in Canada and allowed us to see amazing sunsets, and even brought us safely through a hurricane and quite a few tropical storms.
I hope her new owners, John Martinek and Kelly Martinek, have as many years of enjoyment and memories as she brought us.
If this new chapter in our lives bring us half as much joy, I would be pleasantly surprised."             
Seven years ago we met a nice couple at Spencer Spit who invited us aboard their Helmsman 38, Honu.  The next year, the first mate developed medical issues that ended their boating life, and the broker contacted us.  We had been on Voyager replacing the hot water heater  (SPECIAL THANKS TO JACK H. FOR HIS HELP ON THAT JOB!).  The first mate and I talked about it on the 6 hour drive home after viewing Honu, but decided we still had more sailing years ahead of us.  Last summer we saw the boat at Friday Harbor and chatted with the owners that bought her when we didn't.  They said they were thinking of giving up boating, so we gave them our number.  Long story short, they called two weeks ago with a decent offer, we listed Voyager on Craig's list and had many inquires, including three full cash offers.  The first one backed out after he couldn't find moorage, and the 2nd in line agreed to purchase, and we signed away the title late Thursday.

It is hard to say goodbye to such a great boat, and I hope my grieving doesn't last too long.  I would love to thank   all of the many who have helped me learn and care for my boat over the last 21 years.  And Stu, especially, who helped me evaluate my boat when it was purchased and throughout the years.

Thanks Ron.  We just use Voyager during the summer full time, so once it's laid up, no other trips, which is why e use the antifreeze in the PNW.  It can freeze occasionally in Anacortes , but not like New York cold, and after our first year back, we had a broken heat exchanger, which is when we started using the RV fluid.  That' a great idea for intermittent use.  If we ever decide to stay in the water, I will do that.

Hi All,
Well, another year in the log book.  Since Canada was closed we again only went out for 6 weeks, and find we're enjoying staying put longer, and this year the weather was downright amazingly dry in the PNW.  At any rate, laying up Voyager on the hard.  First is fresh oil change and filter.   I'm not sure who I heard it from from 4 or 5 years ago someone suggested running a mix of fresh water with some SALT AWAY before I do the final step of running a gallon of RV Antifreeze through the engine.  Anyone else doing this in a northern climate area?  The reason I ask is my yard is now clamping down on any owner work, forbidding just about everything, from changing your own zinc to even putting cleaner wax on the boot stripe!  When I run the Salt Away, it leaves a bit of foam on the ground that takes a while to dissipate , so next year not even sure I can barely get away with running the engine after layup with the bit of RV AntiFreeze.  so, is the Salt away even necessary and or helpful?  I can do my annual Pencil zinc while in the water by just closing the through hull and draining out the water from the heat exchanger, so think I can at least do that myself before coming in.  Won't have a choice on the shaft zinc and will have to pay the hourly rate plus their zinc I'm sure.  I also run RV Antifreeze through the fresh water system, as well as putting a little in the head.  On spring commissioning I collect as much as the pump will deliver to reuse, mixing old with new, since it's occasionally freezing, but not like super cold in many areas.  I also disconnect the negative battery cables and secure.  I found if I leave the battery charger on, even though it's only a trickle, I'd need to drive 350 miles 2 or 3 times a year to check the fluid level, and even then, it was still decreasing the years I get out of the batteries. (I replaced the current Trojan T 105's in 2016 and even this year all cells tested 13 with the hydrometer and can go over 3 1/2 days before I am down 80 amp hours (with plenty of ice, and icy cold beer and frozen meats).  Everything else gets washed, cleaned, waxed, checked and accessible electrical connections sprayed with Boshield.  One thing I did stop doing was filling the transmission all the way to the top.  Usually we're in storage 10 months one on board discussion talked about doing that when stored for a full year.  The transmission is never a problem, running well, lubricated, and rarely needs a drop of fluid to stay full.  This year running the motor a total of 93 hours and every week checked it and always full.  last year needed a tea spoon.  am I missing anything

Took me about 6 hours just a few years ago to just change out the hoses that go from the through hull up to the Y valve, the Y valve, and the hose from the Y valve to the toilet.  Honestly, if the door to the underside of the sink was double in size, it would have been a piece of cake, but getting that Y valve off that aft wall under the sink is terrible.  Once that was off, it was easy to get the hoses off.  taped up the ends and took them in to West Marine to make sure I was getting the exact hose.  The reverse process to reinstall.

In the Bahamas when single handing I used the "running Bahamian Moor".   Kept one anchor at the stern cleated off to a little more than double my expected rode.  when I got close to it being tight, which would dig in the stern anchor I just dropped, I would go forward after putting the motor in neutral and drop the main bow anchor and drift backward, with the bow already cleated off to the intended rode length, then go back and and bring the stern line up to the bow. After settled between the two anchors I'd back down pulling on both to set, unless it was in a current situation, with one anchor up current and one down current like at Double Breasted or at West End.   Worked like a charm.  Although later I noticed less people were putting out a second anchor unless in a current situation or as some harbors got more crowded with mooring buoys.