Messages

Jon/Ron thank you, I will look for those access points when I go to the boat tomorrow.

I have an airhead so no macerator/tank/hose there, but I think if I can get it across the bilge I can find the way to the panel.

Thanks

Rich

Thanks.  I am with you until "under the floor across the bilge to the bulkhead".  Is there an "easy" way to get under there to pull it across the bilge?

Hello, I am installing my brand new Isotherm compressor (left in boat by PO) in the STB storage location, forward of STB water tank.  I think my lines will reach without extensions, but I am looking for advice on how to run power back to the panel from this location.  My current A/B compressor is in the aft STB locker but that run would require extensions and seems painful to reinstall there even though there is already power.

Any advice on this?

Thanks much.

Rich

Thank you for the links.  Very helpful.

I wasn't sure if the manufacturer omitted the "A" or "B" or "AC" from these labels, so as a new owner not that obvious to me, but still learning.

Thanks for your help.

Ron, it was sold to me as a 30HP engine.  Some of the notes I have from the original owner shows "B" and MK1.5, but now not sure on either, lol.  I'll look at the manual again tomorrow when I am there.

Engine ground looks to be in good shape.

Anyway, as mentioned, I got it to start reliably after playing with the in-line fuse wire to the starter assembly/solenoid.  Probably not a permanent solution however so I will look to replace that wire/fuse assembly.

Rich

Sorry I have been unresponsive, just back in country after 3 weeks.  Went to the boat today (before I saw your messages) to try to figure it out.  I took apart the cockpit panel and inspected the start button. The connections were clean and tight, voltage reading at .4.  I checked the connection at the starter assembly, which included a 20 amp fuse before it got to the starter assembly (picture attached).  The fuse looked old but not blown. Cleaned the connections, replaced the fuse, plugged it back into the starter assembly and it started right up.

Ron, I think you may be right as I dig deeper, may not be an M35B  , as only 30hp.  Here is a photo.  Maybe an M-35?  I will be back at the boat Saturday and send a picture of the original Catalina Operating Manual that I have.  In the meantime maybe you can identify by this pic I had in my phone.

Thanks again,

Rich

The source of my leak was indeed at the stanchion above the nav table. 

Thanks, all.  I'll tighten things up, check the voltages at each circuit and perhaps replace the the button as a starting point.

The wiring diagram was in the original owners manual, so not sure what that is about, but will look in the wiki.

Kyle, when the button didn't produce a crank, I tested it using all 3 positions.  All failed.

Rich

Ken, here is what I am using, not sure if you can read it as it is very small.  Can you identify where I should put the 12V?  Is it where the yellow-red wire connects to the starter?

Ron, I have it set to 1+2 when starting, but tried all versions (1,2,1+2) and all failed to crank.  When on shore power, also tried all versions and all fired right up after it charged for a while.

I was hoping to avoid opening the panel  as my project list is long enough.  Ignorance is bliss (until it's not)

Thank you both!

Great info, thank you very much.  I will check all the voltages and report back.

In the meantime, re: "Another approach when you have a no-start, is to bypass the panel and START button and apply a good, known 12v directly to the starter solenoid."  How do I do this?

Thank you.

Hello, I have reviewed all of the Universal 35 engine schematics, but I can't identify this part.  The hose is not connected, but looks like it should be?  If so, where does the other end go?

Thanks in advance.

I saw this same issue posted many times, and have read most/all and have TRIED to understand steps that I can take.  I am hoping someone can help with a few diagnostic tips that can get me to an answer.

1.  After a few hours of sailing (and motoring), and a stop for lunch, with electronics on and radio on.  Pushed start button to leave and nothing, no crank, just silence.  For the past 18 months since I have had the boat, the engine always started immediately first try.  I waiting a few minutes and pushed the button again and it started right up.

2.  A week later, engine started right up at the slip, but when restarting after sailing a few hours nothing.  Waited a few minutes, tried again and started right up.

3.  Today, went to try to figure it out.  Unplugged, turned on radio and electronics and let it sit for 3 hours.  Pushed button, nothing (radio and alarm and electronics still working fine)  Pushed again, started right up and started up 5 times in a row after.
I let it sit for another 2 hours, then I could not start it at all.  Tried 10 times and silence each time.
Plugged shore power in and let battery charge for an hour or so, started right up and repeated 5 times with no hesitation.

I have checked the grounding wire and it is solid.  I checked the battery cables and all looks tight (pic attached).  I looked at all of the connections to the starter/solenoid and everything looks tight with no corrosion.

My initial finding are:
 I don't think it is the start button, as when plugged into shore power it fires perfectly and multiple times.
 I don't think dead batteries, as the radio/electronics keep playing throughout(?)
 Maybe a power loss between the battery and the starter switch when the battery is being drawn down but not dead? 

Any thoughts appreciated before I start start sticking screwdrivers in.  Thanks in advance.

I think that is right.  The only thing that is still puzzling is that for tmac and me, it is most noticeable going INTO the wind, which to me is counterintuitive.  I'm going to test scgunner's suggestion above, which is to remove my port perch seats and the bbq also on the port side, perhaps it is getting "stuck" there and finding its way into the cockpit.