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Maybe it helps or not, but last week we had an air lock in the coolant system (I changed the hoses and had the HX cleaned). After a few minutes on the engine, the temperature gauge read over 200, but the engine was not particularly hot. Was that really the engine? The gauge? Finally we found that there was no coolant in the thermostat housing so the probe was taking the temperature of the air (which heats up faster than the liquid I imagine). Conclusion: I bought a laser thermometer to get a second opinion if my instruments tell me that the engine is too hot.

... longer and Higher

Hey,

Is your boom at the original height or have you raised it a bit?  It looks like it's higher than mine.

As I previously mentioned to Kyle on Facebook, I have purchased the JMP all-bronze pump and will be installing it in the near future. At some point I'll provide an update on how it's working.

I plan to inspect the current Sherwood G908 to ensure there's no rust, and if everything looks good I will keep it as an emergency spare. But I will no longer have to worry about iron rust causing the bearings to seize and break my cam shaft.

I will have to transfer my elbow fittings over from the Sherwood pump to the JMP. What is the preferred thread treatment for this? Is Teflon tape OK, or is there some liquid pipe dope that is preferred? I've always used Teflon tape for everything, but want to be sure to follow best practices for this critical application.

Hey Breakin Away,

Did you install your new JMP pump finally ?
I'm about to rebuild my Sherwood and may consider a swap.

was to start the loop and go towards salt water would I have to remove the VC17 to repaint it with bottom paint that would be good for salt water. After the media blast do I need to first clean everything then put a barrier coat paint before the bottom paint or the VC17??

VC17 is suitable for « cold » salt water (low fouling)
The C34 I bought last from Michigan (fresh water, fresh coat of V17) is now in salt water in eastern Canada and V17 is holding great and doing it's job.

Just finished installing the new ss plates and the clutches. Satisfied ! Thanks again Gregory and Noah for your advices !

Hi Ed,

Thanks for your feedback !
Ah, that's what I thought, that there shouldn't be much room in the forepeak of the boat.
It was while inspecting for the crack in the weld that I noticed this.
I'm surprised that it doesn't seem to be a more documented issue. I wonder why this is happening on my boat, too much tension in the forestay?? It seems to me that I am nevertheless in the standards.

I will try to correct this over the next few weeks. I'll probably use your trimmed fender washer technique for the front bolt.

Thank you again for your help !

Hi there.

I notice few days ago that my stemhead was slightly lifted from the deck.

I looked underneath and to my surprise there is no backing plate underneath. Just two bolts and nuts that seem to sink slowly but surely into the fiber... Ugh.

My plan is to have a backing plate made and install this underneath. Or some kind of big custom made washers... (wide and thick) that could be easier to install back there..

Have any of you done a repair like this before?
Any suggestions ?

Hi Gregory,

I'm about to have two plates made like you for my clutches.
To properly secure these plates, do you know if there is a wooden or metal anchor underneath?

According to the opinion of the welder who will make the plates for me, we will screw the clutches on the plate and then the plate on the base of the boat.

Matt

Sorry, that was my closest photo and since I have done this about six years ago,
I don't recall that detail, however, going to boat on Monday and can take few pictures then.

Ok keep me posted !

Thanks 

That looks nice and clean.
So on this photo the aluminum plate extend further the original base on de right side ?

I might go this way.

Hi,

I want to install two quadruple rope clutches.
Do you have any inspiration on how I could elegantly build or widen the base to install those larger clutches ?



Thank you

Hi c34 sailors,

We have a brand new Quantum 155 Tri Radial furling Genoa made for a C34 for sale.
Came with the boat but never been out of the bag.
Too big for our sailing area.

Asking 2700$ (USD)

Located in New-Brunswick Canada, next to Maine.

Challenge Newport Pro Radial 8.1

Hi Dave,

Thank you very much for your detailed answer.

I'm going to get my hands on this cradle with a clearer conscience.

Matthieu

Hi John,
You're right that cradle sizes can vary.  Mine is 67" x 144".  I've attached a couple of pictures showing the boat in the cradle and one when I moved the cradle from Lion's Head to Penetanguishene using my 4' x 7' trailer.  I didn't fold it when I moved it but if I did, it likely would have been 18-24" high.  It was lifted on and off the trailer with a forklift.  I built a support frame in the base of the trailer to support the cradle's weight so it wasn't resting on the top of the sidewalls.
I hope this helps.  Let me know if you want anything more on how I moved my cradle.

Hi David, I'm jumping into this old thread... maybe you can help me.

I'm about to buy a cradle the same size as yours.
Width: 67 inches
Length: 156 inches
My only concern is relates to its width.
According to the manual, the cradle should be about 8 feet wide. (7.8 between the stern pads, and 7.2 for the bow)

How comfortable do you feel with this smaller width?

Thanks

Hello,

I searched through the group's topics, but couldn't find a specific answer to my question.

I am looking for a cradle for my sailboat and I am confused on the question of the necessary dimensions.
Yes I did see in the manual that the width indicated is 8 feet by 12 feet long. (7.8 wide for the stern, and 7.2 for the bow).

On the other hand I have also read comments from a member on the group indicating that his cradle was about 5 feet wide.

How do I find myself there?   There is a cradle I am currently interested in, it is 12 feet long, but only 5.3 feet wide. Is it too short ?

What are the dimensions of your cradles?

Thanks !