Messages

Sorry that I've been unresponsive.  I got nailed with Covid, and have been down for a while.  Obviously I haven't had much opportunity for getting on the boat during this time.  But to answer some of the questions:
1. Yes, I've added a folding swim platform, however I had the same problem with exhaust fumes before I added that, and adding the platform doesn't seem to have made any difference, good or bad. When it is folded up, it only sticks out about 2 inches, and I keep it folded unless we are deboarding into the dinghy.
2. I mostly experience the problem motoring into the wind.  I've attached a diagram I stole from the internet that shows what I believe is happening.  It is a common phenomena in speed boats.
3. I hadn't considered the effect the pushpit-mounted seats might have before now.  I'll have to experiment and see if removing them helps.
4. Weather cloths on the pushpit might be an easy thing to try.
We are getting close to haul-out time, so I don't know if I'm going to have much more opportunity to experiment this fall. Thanks to all for your input and wisdom.

I've played around with this issue all summer.  To all those who suggested that I have exhaust leaks, I've had the boat checked over by a professional marine mechanic. The exhaust system is original and unmodified. There are no exhaust leaks, and I don't have exhaust fumes anywhere in the cabin. (I also have CO monitors deployed in the cabins, which register zero.)  I know a bit about fluid flow dynamics from my engineering education, and this is definitely the "station wagon" effect happening.  My dodger is probably shaped different from what the other respondents have, and even a slight difference can have a dramatic effect on air flow. As I mentioned, I DON'T have a Bimini, and wouldn't be surprised if adding one would improve the situation.
Ron - yes - I've started unzipping the center window on my bimini and it eliminates the problem - even just partially opening it works.
I may eventually have my dodger replaced, modifying the shape a bit, but until then I'll just open the window. My initial inquiry was just to see if there were other factors I wasn't considering.

Like Jon said, it's the "station wagon effect".  I don't have any exhaust leaks inside the boat - I have CO detectors in the cabin for that eventuality. The exhaust is the same as the factory installation and is in good condition. Engine runs perfectly, and has good water flow out the exhaust. 
It isn't a consistent problem, just occasional, and most typically when motoring into the wind.  Like I said in the original post, if I open the dodger windows, it clears up. I'm seriously thinking of doing a test and mocking up a spoiler to mount onto the aft support of the dodger to see if that changes the airflow. Maybe I should get a smoke generator and watch the airflow...

Ron - I don't have a Bimini (yet...).  Just a typical dodger. I might experiment with some kind of deflector on the top of the dodger to change the airflow. The air must be coming off the top of the dodger and curling down into some kind of a vortex as it flows over the transom, pulling exhaust fumes up around the steering wheel. I've had about 10 episodes where it has gotten quite noxious at the wheel.

Been sailing on Lake Superior for 40 years.  Bought my 1988 C34 #818 in 2021, and keep it near Bayfield WI. 

I've had an annoying issue when motoring where the exhaust gets sucked back into the cockpit to the point where I get headaches from the fumes. I think what's happening is my dodger is causing a vortex that draws the air up from the transom - kind of like in cars, where the rear spoiler is designed to prevent this same air vortex action.  Opening the front window on the dodger changes the airflow enough to alleviate this, but there are many days where it is uncomfortably chilly and we don't want to open the dodger window, so I'm looking for alternatives. Has anyone else ever had this issue, and if so, what did you do to correct it?  (And no - I don't want to add a spoiler on my stern rail  )   1988 C34. 

I came across a website of a South Carolina salvage yard that has a 1991 C34 that is being cut up.   
Maybe someone can find some parts they need.  But I thought it was interesting to see the cross section of how the boat is put together.
Here's the link:  https://www.411marine-salvage.com/product/1991-catalina-yachts-34/

I just came across a video on YouTube giving some good tips on servicing a Jabsco marine head.  He as some good tricks for making the job less messy.  However, at the end he recommends using olive oil for lubricating, which some people disagree with, but otherwise its a nicely done video.   Just thought I'd pass it along!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14mkaCgEkzY&ab_channel=TheBoatCheat

Noah - I'm curious - I bought one of those Garhauer stanchion blocks with the cleats last year, and I HATE it!  I find that when trying to uncleat the line, when I snap the line up, the whole spring-loaded block just swings up with the line, and it doesn't uncleat.  Do you find the same thing?  I have to actually step over to the cleat and hold the block to get it to uncleat.  I'm contemplating removing the cleat portion and mount that on the edge of the cockpit instead. 

Noah - yes, I tried storing them next to the ladder.  Being a bit clumsy, I kept hitting my funny bone on them as I was climbing down the steps - especially when I was carrying something into the cabin.

Ron - That's another good idea.  However when it starts to downpour then I'd have to run out into the cockpit to get the boards. Its nice to just be able to quickly grab them from inside and mount them up.  To each his own!! 

On every boat I've ever owned I've been frustrated with where to stash the hatch boards after removing them from the hatch.  I know there are some manufacturers that actually have places designed to hold them, but no boat I've owned had this feature.  And some people have installed hinged doors, but I'm not a fan of those doors. 
As I was sitting here watching yet another snowstorm, I decided to solve my problem once and for all.  I happened to have taken my hatch boards home to refinish them and so I was able to use them as a template.  I built a wall-mounted holder (what else would you call it??) that will mount on the aft cabin bulkhead (the other side of the oven wall).  This might not work for MKII models - if I remember correctly you have a cabinet on that bulkhead, correct?

The holder has a sloped bottom that matches the angle of the hatch board sides, so the boards stay in place very nicely.  I divided the holder into two slots, which are lined with a thin rubber drawer liner material so that the hatch boards won't bang around while under sail. One of the photos shows just the central component of the holder without the sides attached.  Keeping the two boards separated will hopefully avoid scratching and chipping their finish.  To make it easier to slide the boards in, I made one side shorter, but still high enough to keep the boards in place while heeled over.
By the way - I haven't completed the staining/finishing.  It still looks a bit rough - but it will be presentable when completed...

I just thought I'd pass along the idea in case others were as frustrated as I was with what to do with the hatch boards.

Maybe if you got some big heat shrink and slid it over the entire Wago assembly, you could make it more resistant to corrosion 

I'm going to venture forth with my opinions on this subject even though some may not agree.  I'm right in the middle of reconfiguring my boat's battery and charging systems to incorporate LiFePO4 for the house bank.  My recommendations to MQ are as follows:

1.First, spend some more time educating yourself about incorporating Lithium.  As Maine Sail says, Lithium is not a drop-in replacement for lead acid.  There's more to consider than you see at first glance.  I'd recommend watching the video seminars on YouTube from Pacific Yacht Systems (Jeff Cote) on the subject (yes, I know, he's long winded, but there's good information in there.)  Also Maine Sail has several good write-ups, as well as Nigel Calder's extensive writings and his videos on YouTube.

2.One of the above authors made a good analogy, which was that LiFePO4 batteries are like marathon runners, and lead-acid starter batteries are like sprinters.  Starting an engine requires a sprinter – big push for a short duration.  This is not what LiFePO4 batteries are designed for.  They are good at providing a strong, steady output for long periods of time.  The three authors above all seem to agree that using a LiFePO4 battery as a starter battery on a regular basis is not recommended. 

3.You mentioned that you were going to have the DC to DC charger charging the starter battery from the house bank.  In my opinion, that's backwards.  Unless you are also using solar, the DC charger only comes into play when you are charging via the alternator.  When you crank the engine, you are only draining the starter battery by a couple of percent in most cases, unless your engine requires some serious maintenance. (This is why most internally regulated alternators have a VERY conservative charging profile – it only takes a few minutes to fully recharge the starter battery.)  So to me, it makes more sense to have the DC charger look to see when the starter battery has 13.6 V on it (i.e. it is being charged by the alternator), and draw from that side to also charge the house bank, which will likely be in more need of charging. The starter battery will be recharged in short order, and then the DC charger and alternator can focus on the house bank.

4.There are many misconceptions about Lithium batteries – especially the issue with flammability.  Maine Sail does a good job of putting this to rest (as does Nigel Calder), clarifying that the LiFePO4 battery is very different that the earlier Lithium Ion batteries that made the news so often.  The primary concern for fire with LiFePO4 would actually come from situations where a dead short in wiring occurred that would allow the battery to pump out vast amounts of current, melting the wiring.  However most of the batteries being sold today have battery management systems that would shut down the battery in these situations.  That BMS, combined with an appropriate Class T fuse in the main wiring configuration should greatly reduce this risk.  The other situation to guard against is using a 1/2/both switch and combining a heavily discharged starter battery with a fully charged LiFePO4 bank.  The large voltage difference would cause a big current spike, and again could lead to a wiring meltdown. In my configuration, I'm using a keyed switch hidden away from passengers that will allow me in an emergency use my house bank for starting the engine, but only after I first pull the fuse on the starter battery so that the two banks are never linked.

That's my nickel's worth.  Is it worth installing LiFePO4?  I think so – for nearly the same cost as replacing my 4 dying Trojan T-105's I'm getting about 220 amp hours, of which I can actually use about 175 AH on a regular basis (and more if I really need), whereas the Trojans gave me 420 AH, but I could only use about 35% of that on a regular basis or 147 AH (sometimes 200 AH if I pushed it hard, but you pay a price in longevity for that).  Not to mention the far longer lifespan for the LiFePO4.   And I can fit the two lithium batteries easily into the battery box, with enough room to also mount the DC to DC charger in there and do a nice, neat wiring job for my main unswitched bus, fuses, etc. 
OK – I've stepped down off my soapbox...

Dan,
I recently worked on my teak and holly soles on my 1988, so I can answer most of your questions.  The panels are almost exactly 1/2" thick.   The panels are screwed down around the edges with small (size 6 ??) screws.  You may find that the screw heads might have submerged into the wood, depending on the skill level of the previous owner, and might be difficult to see.  As you loosen each board, gently lift the edges and you'll be able to tell where any remaining "hidden" screws might be.  When you reinstall, you might consider small washers beneath the screw heads to keep them closer to the top of the wood.

The boards over the bilge are two 1/2 panels glued back to back making them about 1" thick.

Each panel sits in a fiberglass recessed pan that is the same depth as the thickness of the wood, so if you remove the wood panels, you can still safely walk around the boat.

I don't have a measurement for how deep the bilge is, but refer to the attached photo – I'd guess about 10" or so?  Maybe someone else can answer that one.  Note - in that photo you can see one of the screw heads on the corner of the panel beneath the table.  They are pretty small and easy to miss.

Free advice (worth every penny) – be really careful refinishing the sole panels.  The veneer is VERY thin.  I've attached a photo of mine, which were aggressively sanded by previous owners, and you can see how the holly is missing in a number of places.  For now, I went ahead and very gently removed the existing finish and revarnished to do what I could to improve and protect, but I'll eventually need to replace the main long panel and probably the galley. 

Take the time to seal the undersides of the panels too.  Water, dirt, sand gets beneath them and damages them.  I've started periodically pulling up the most heavily trafficked panels and vacuuming the pan beneath them.  You'd be amazed at how much sand collects under there.

If you have dents in the wood from dropped utensils, etc. , you can "undent" them to a large extent by placing a (nearly dry) damp towel over it and use a clothes iron placed on the towel to drive steam into the wood.  Don't overdo it or you can delaminate the veneer or scorch the wood.  Sneak up on it a little at a time, and you'll be surprised at how the wood fibers will swell up and fill back in.
Good luck on your projects!
Tom

Ron - you're getting to be like me - I have a great memory - its just short!
Sorry to correct you, but the weight per US gallon of diesel is about 7 lbs.