Messages

I installed this and works great.
I think the price was less than the rebuild kit for the original pump.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/whabp1552-whale-gulper-220-grey-waste-pump-12v.html

Reporting back from the local Tractor dealer and after purchasing the gasket.
P/n 15296-88130 - Description GASKET H-METER NA Cost $1.73

Thank you for your support and knowledge.

I don't care what it is called?

It was referred to as a "small square gasket" with the cost of $1.50, that did not seem relevant but what do I know...

It is of course possible that I have completely misunderstood the information from Kubota. I will order the unit and report back.

Please advise if I understand it correctly, should I be able to order p/n 15296-88130 as a spare part from a Kubota dealer?
I definitely want to order the Kubota part over the Westerbeke gasket per KWKloeber recommendation.

I have contacted two separate Kubota dealers in two different States trying to order p/n 15296-88130 and both dealers have referred to this part number as a "Hour Meter Gasket".
Perhaps I should not order this p/n from a Kubota dealer but some other dealer. Not saying that any of these Tractor dealer know anything about the engine (M35) in our boats as they sell Tractor parts.

If anyone know of a dealer where I can order p/n 15296-88130 since I want the best as recommended by KWKLoeber, I would be grateful.

I'm not trying to challenge the knowledge of long experience - only simply trying to find a location where I can buy the gasket...

Thank you for the support

Hello,
I'm replacing a Sherwood pump with Oberdorfer N202-16 which arrived yesterday.

I contacted the local Kubota Dealer and inquired about the gasket 15296-88130 which is listed in a prior post, the Kubota parts department confirmed the structure of the part number was correct but the gentleman also confirmed it was a gasket for an Hour Reader, a small square gasket. I'm not sure what I'm reading wrong or should inquire about?

I'm confused and need guidance as I don't know what gasket to order.
Are there any other gasket, O-rings or fittings needed for a smooth installation.
I see the 90 degree and straight connector recommendation.

Best place I found to order the pump from:

https://www.pumpsandpartsonline.com/shop/oberdorfer-pumps/rubber-impeller/rubberimpellerpumps/N202M-16


Thank you

Thank you Breakin Away, greatly appreciate your feedback.
The prop is a 3 blade.
I'm well aware that the max RPM is 3200 and I think cruising should be 2600, but as I mentioned the throttle is blocked not to exceed 2100 and then it runs hot.
You are right about the soot, plenty of that.
My prop "drag" when going reverse and parking is brutally strong.
So I suppose these are all signs of an over sized Prop. I think this prop has been mounted for the last 20 years.
The engine runs great, no issues during the two seasons I have owned this C34.
Thank you for your input.

Thank you for the feedback Noah and Alex,
Keelson - I hope this is valuable to you as well.
I think this can be valuable information, for what it is worth my prop on the M35 is a Michigan Sailer 8/89, 15RH12.
Based on boat being produced 1990 with hull #1024 could it be possible that the Prop has been an original if produced 8/89?
My cruising speed does not seem to suffer with around 6 knots at 2000rpm, seem to be running at about 185 temp but the cruising temp should be 165 temp. When I cruise at full speed the stern sit pretty deep in the water being pulled down by the prop.
I will fill the overflow tank and try to burp the system before I bite any bullet with an experienced mechanic. Engine has been working like a champ with 2000-2100rpm during long motor cruises.
Appreciate all the feedback.

Keelson,
Thank you for your post. I have the exact same issue and concern as you describe.
My throttle has a stop so that I cannot rev the engine above 2100rpm, as soon as I go over 2000 and push towards 2100 I notice that the temp increases towards 195.
My overflow tank has been bone dry for the last two season and coolant level in the engine never needs topping off.  I had the HX completely cleaned out before the last season but no change in temperature behavior. No leaks to my knowledge but I do have some white smoke in the exhaust.
I keep wondering why the throttle is limited and not able to reach crushing rpm of 2600 but on the other hand then it will overheat. By the way, with 2000rpm I reach cruising speed of 6 knots.

Hello, any recommendation as to where to buy a socket that is long enough for the keel bolts?
Thank you

Alex, I like the set up you have done but I don't understand the KUS etc.. I also have a i70 Raymarine display so sounds like I could do the same.

My fuel gauge is very unreliable, it showed only 1/2 tank but I could only fill 4 gallons.

I would like to know more about your set-up.

Thank you for the feedback.
Prop is a 3 blade Michigan Sailer 8/89 15RH12.
I think I read somewhere that the cruising temp for the M35 was 185-190...
The rpm gauge is working but the hours have not moved since we bought the boat (11/2020). 1045 hours on the numbers, who knows could have been 1045 for the last teen years.

Hi, have followed this carefully as the set screws on my M35 have both a wire and plomb-seal. Max rpm I can reach with WOT is tops 2100. Cruising speed is depending on conditions anywhere 5-6.1 knots with a temp of around 185-190.
Seems to be this setting has been in place for ever!
Should I change the screws to get higher rpm and possibly speed?
Motored from Annapolis to Rock Hall last Tuesday (before IDA storm came around) in flat 3 hours mooring ball to dock.
Thank you for advise.

An additional comment/question to the topic of odor due to hoses.
When talking to a my neighbor at the dock regarding holding tank and related hoses, I was given the advise to add a second vent hose on the holding tank to reduce the holding tank odor.

Is there anyone who has done that on a 34 if so where have you placed the additional vent on the hull.
We currently have a functioning Stantion vent connected to the holding tank.

I am planning on exchanging the holding tank and hoses while on the hard so this post is very relevant.

Any input would be appreciated.

Bo Jeansson
#1024 MK1.25 1990 WK M35
Rock Hall, MD

We bought #1024 early November 2020 and had several maintenance challenges ahead of us but no structural issues.

Galley - We had the identical issue, it is a leak from the water tank venting stanchion with all certainty. I bough new backing plate and BED-IT and the leak was fixed. Ripped out the entire thin veneer against the starboard hull. Had to replace the outlet and part of the wall that is secured to. Sounds hard but after looking at it for a while and drafting a plan - no problem. Note you have to take the Microwave if you have one.

Bilge - ours did not look that bad, this is not the result of water in the bilge one winter but rather 10 or so. You probably have an odor in the boat that is due to all that.

Holding tank - I have noticed that one of our fittings has a crack and causes a very small leak which also causes odor issues. I will replace the tank and got a quote for the B-179 of around $280 excl freight (CA).

We had a LOT of cleaning, scrubbing, washing, polishing and wax before she reach our standard but she is a gem.

Good Luck,

Bo Jeansson
#1024 1990 MK1.25 M35 Rock Hall MD

Sail question from a Newbie

What would the consequences be to use a S-Spinnaker that has a shorter L measurement but within the max girth of 24'?
SL-37 and Foot 23

Secondly, I see that Ron listed his 150% Genoa's luff length at 46' 7 1/2".
I have a 155% Genoa (I think based on measurement) but the Luff is only listed as 44', Leach 42.5', Foot 20.8', does that make sense?

I'm trying to determine if I have a SR or TR as the PO did not know and Catalina does not have any records.
I have tried to measure but don't know for sure - I think it is a SR based on the height of the Main Halyard which I did measure.

Thank you in advance.

Bo Jeansson
1990 1.25 #1024 WK M35
Rock Hall, MD