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Thanks Jim, I did check the cutlass bearing, so far, good!  The spacer is still in place, so hopefully we can gain 1/4" on that end and 1/8" on the top.

Yep, it is suppose to lessen round ups, prop walk control, up wind performance, and still easy on the helm!  I let you know next spring!

I ordered a new rudder this fall, removed the old rudder at haul out, so this winter I was hoping to drill the holes in the new rudder shaft to match the old rudder shaft...the new shaft is 3/8" shorter.  The emergency tiller cap had to be cut off so I ordered a new one, which fits a little lower than the old one did.  The question I have is, does the top tiller rest tight against the top rudder support under the aft seat hatch, or do I have some leeway here?  I was hoping to make up the 3/8" by raising the cap, and pushing the rudder a little closer to the hull, (I had about 1/2 gap on the old rudder) to make up the difference. Here's a pic of the new and old rudder, I chose the non elliptical, Rudder Craft recommended this tuned rudder instead.

I use Progressive.  The boat is in Bayfield Wisconsin.  ($500+-) per season.

Steve, check out this review by Yachting Monthly, very helpful! 
https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807

Welcome to the club!  I have a much newer C34, Hull 943...I removed my three blade prop and went with the flexifold two blade, love it!  I also had to replace the lens over the salon, and front hatch too, in fact all of the windows!  Great boat, lots of projects and this is where you can learn how to do them all! 

Thanks guys, it is reassuring to know that and I will be using quality material!!  I hope to get a lot of that job done while it is still near freezing!   

It is the original equipment with the macerator, but the wiring is disconnected with the output from the macerator capped off.  The through hull where the macerator would connect, remains, and the through hull is in the closed position.  The boat has always been in the Great Lakes.

I assume the hose from the head should go right to the holding tank, but this large PVC valve is in the middle of that hose. 

Hi all, I will be putting my new to me C 34 (1989 trwk) in the water, (Bayfield Wisc.) for my second season.  I have redone the DC side with new house batteries and reserve battery, as per this forum, learning so much!!  I will be pulling the mast and rewiring it and checking all the standing rigging, also advised here, I don't think this has been done for many years!! 

Now to the head odor problems....I will be replacing all the hoses, but noticed the PO had installed a large shut off valve in the locker aft of the nav. table.  I felt this is a good collection place for things to turn green, so to speak, so I am planing on removing it.  But, looking for some wisdom, is there any reason I shouldn't remove this, not sure why the PO installed it in the first place...

Check out Tech Notes: February 1989 Vol 7 #1 
Good luck!  Jeff

I've thought about replacing the back stay with appropriate sized spectra with blocks pulling down, smaller blocks, and cleating off on both sides of the cockpit (dual control) rather than a pinch method to get those heavy blocks from banging on my head, especially while sailing or coming in from back of the boat.  I've seen this more on racing boats, not sure it would work here...but a thought!

www.shipshapecanvas.com in Duluth...real happy with mine!  Jeff

There's a couple pictures here.   https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10911.0.html