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I'll chime in. I ordered all new sails for my C34 and decided to go with 135 for the Genoa, I don't see the point in reefing a 155 (down to let's say a 135) for higher winds, in lighter winds where the 155 might be a good fit I use a gennaker which works better anyway. My north sails Helix points almost as high as a Genoa anyway, being on a furler it's just as easy to use as a Genoa as well.

When I replaced the transmission on my previous boat that had an M25 I first looked at having it rebuilt. Several shops told me it's a waste of time, for whatever reason they don't last after being rebuilt. Buying a new transmission is the way to go if yours needs it.

Well Ron I screw around with things all the time and so far I'm very satisfied 

I hear ya Ron, but I want a useable shower in there and I refuse to fight gravity. As much as this will be a PITA to get right I'm willing to go thru with it.

So I've looked at my dodger and heights and how it could all work and I'm arriving at the same conclusion you're all getting to. The boom actually extends past where the dodger is so it wouldn't be end boom sheeting anyway.

So I'm just going to make a fiberglass dodger and leave the running rigging as is.

Ron thank you for confirming that my traveller is thru bolted, one less thing I have to do.

The original setup is beyond dumb, the tube from the drain goes uphill towards the pump... I too have cut a large hole under the floor right in front of the head door. I can feel the elbow that's been glassed in. I plan on cutting it all off by hand which I'm sure is going to take forever. Once removed I'll come up with a different way to make an elbow that will point downhill towards the bilge, there's room there to install a shower sump box with its own pump that's float switch operated.

Noah, it's mostly for monitoring humidity levels and temps over the winter. Also playing with my forced air heater and now it affects temps around the boat.

I figured I'd start a topic to brain storm with the group on my upcoming hard dodger build. I'm toying with the idea to have the main sheet changed to an end boom design and putting the blocks up on the dodger. Any thoughts? Pros and cons?

The C34 traveller is already one of the things that needs to be redone with thru bolting so that for me is a pro. End boom sheeting is easier on the boom, specially since I have a loose footed fueling main. I could remove the "pedestals" holding the oem traveller, I'd gain better visibility too.

Cons would be that it's a modification I can reverse (specially if I remove the pedestals). The arch within the dodger would have to be build a lot stronger to withstand the loads of the main.

That's just to get the conversation going.

I have that exact setup, ruuvi tags connected to a cerbo gx. Data available to me on my phone anywhere I am. I have a yachtsense link with cell data as well as Starlink which is how I'm able to see the data when I'm not on the boat.

Hey Ron,

At the moment I haven't committed to a location for the wires, for the time being they're going thru the head hatch. I will be building a new hard dodger this fall and will likely drill a hole for the wires under the foot of the dodger, so that they poke thru at the corner of a bulkhead and can then easily route them inside.

Not at all, I mean if you setup the display with 6 data boxes some of the digits might be harder to see, but in single box layout it's visible from anywhere in the cockpit.

I really like the p70s there as well, I usually sail under autopilot and sit by the companion way, so quick course adjustments are right there at my finger tips.

I really like how it turned out, super slick, water proof and very modular as you can add or remove each individual block that makes up the whole pod. I chose to have usb charging at each end as well.

Hey everyone! I've share the pics of my i70s displays on another post but I think it deserves its own post. I personally don't like a cluttered helm so decided to install all of the displays above the companion way. I have a total of 4 i70s displays and one p70s display.

Was rocking the temp setup with just a simple plywood board for testing purposes for a couple of years, finally decided I really like the location. So I got in touch with Eric at Stokedman studios that does design and 3D printing services. They came up with this design based on what I wanted and I think it turned out awesome! I'll post a few more in depth pics and install process as well in the next few days.

Yes I have personally eliminated the thru stanchion vents, both sides, for holding tank and water tank.

Get rid of the stanchion vents, they're a pita and don't work well. Vent your holding tank thru the side of the hull with a couple of 1" thru hulls and put some scoops over them.