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I've contacted Foos, Catalina Direct, Catalina Yachts and Rudder Craft.

Rudder Craft makes the rudders for Catalina Direct so they're the same rudder. I spoke w Jason and he seems very knowledgeable. They're construction is some different than the others in that instead of injected a fiberglass mold, they lay up closed cell foam board and then shape the rudder halves, fiberglass that and post and webbing together, then layup the fiberglass exterior. It's the elliptical design and they claim it works well.

Catalina Yachts, has yet to get back to me now going on 3 days. They have to check and see if they have the molds.

Foss has the molds and can build one the traditional way, by injection I assume. They are on the east coast having it shipped to AZ may be problematic. Plus, he's having a hip replacement shortly and apparently that will slow things down.

Does anyone have experience w Rudder Craft? I assume they're a good product.

Thanks,

Dave

Ron,

Your observation is probably spot on. I believe the boat has been in this area for over 20 yrs and while she spent quite a bit of time cruising her slip has always been in San Carlos. I don't believe the awareness about stray voltage is quite as prevalent here as in the states and Canada.

Thanks, I'll check out my options.

Dave

K.W., Please see attached photos. It appears the post is rusted through in a couple of places. While I'd actually like to try and rebuild the rudder I think that for peace of mind I may be better off finding one professionally built one. Being in Mexico, it's often a process getting materials and finding a reasonable place to work and getting work done. I'm not a welder and not sure this is the project to learn on. Thanks for the heads up on the quote!

Which leads me to my question of any ideas about where to buy one? I've looked at Catalina Direct they're asking about $4,000.00. Does anyone know of any legitimate affordable alternatives?

I appreciate your thoughts.

Good News!

Thanks again to all. I really appreciate your advice.

Luckily, I was able to get our local (there's only one here in San Carlos MX) diesel mechanic and general boat guru to disconnect all the major impediments for me from the aft lazarette. It took all of about 20 minutes. There's times it's good not to be 6'5". We raised the boat with the hydroelectric trailer and with much pounding, pushing and pulling broke the shaft free from the aluminum emergency tiller cap.

Bad News!!

The rudder post is corroded at the base where it enters the top of the rudder and there's signs of corrosion about 10" up the shaft. I have a couple of choices:

1. Take the rudder apart and import a new shaft rebuild the rudder and reinstall.

2. Buy a new rudder.

Seaclusion in old, 1986, but in generally good health. She still has her original rudder and I'm wondering if replacing what I have w an elliptical rudder makes sense. I've read most of the posts in this board most of which was written about 10 yrs ago it seems.

I'm wondering if any of you have any brilliant thoughts on this.

Thanks again for your  input.

Dave

Wow!

Thanks to you all for the great information. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Dave

I'm attempting to drop the rudder to check the shaft and remove the slop. I'd really like to remove the aft water tank so I can reach all the doohickies that need to be loosened/removed so the rudder will slide out. I'm especially interested in how the tank is affixed to the boat. I'm assuming that someone has pulled one out and would appreciate any experiences. My boat is hull # 364 and a 1986 MK1. No sugar, no scoop. At 6'5" and 230Lbs getting access through the rear lazzerette is somewhat problematic. I don't know anyone who I dislike enough to ask to help. Thanks.

Thanks Jon! I appreciate the help.

I know the message board isn't for IT questions but it's all I can access. For example, if I go to C34 Tech Wiki then click a link I'm sent to a black page. I thought that maybe my membership had sunk so I went to Join again, same result. Have I been court-martialed, thrown off the island or banned? Any ideas would be helpful?

Thanks,
Dave

I have seen this product, flexmold that is, has anyone ever used it?

Thanks Noah. I appreciate your insight.

Eric,

Thanks, it'll be interesting to see hoe this shakes out. Hopefully someone has some experience with this,

Dave

I know that non-skid has been discussed multiple times but my question is this; in preparation of painting the non-skid, do you sand away all the old factory molded non-skid then apply new paint/sand non-skid? Or can the molded original be cleaned and "roughed up" and painted over. And has anyone ever used the rubberized stick on non-skid and if so would you recommend it? Thanks for your help

Dave
SV Seaclusion
Catalina 34
Hull #364

Thanks for the ideas. I was unsure if the macerator would push "everything" out on that far of a run. I'll need to drill another hole in the bulkhead but that's not a biggie. Thanks again for the help.

As originally set up, the toilet ran directly to the tank. The tank has 2 outputs one, for the pump out which is still in operation (although,it's useless because there's no pump out where I'm located). The second to the macerator and then to the thru hull next to the tank. That thu hull has been abandoned and glassed over.

Apparently, a new 1.5 in is now in the locker aft of the nav station. It's a direct dump from the toilet. A violation of all kinds of rules even here in Mexico. And disgusting too.

Instead of re-installing the old thru hull that's been abandoned, I'd like to try and use the larger one in the locker.

Sorry to be unclear. Hopefully, that helps.

On the last photo the white hose come from the toilet to the tank. As you can see it's capped off. The black hose comes from the macerator. In the first set of pics the white hose comes directly from the head to the thru hull.