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The "no paper" technique works, and we took up the idea after trips to the Dominican Republic and Costa Rica.  If you line a small waste can with deodorizing trash bags, and it has a lid, it works flawlessly.
The Admiral is fully on-board with this, and in five years no guest has ever balked to our faces at least.
Recently we switched to a C355 and carry this no-paper practice forward.

Of course, YMMV.

Brian- I added the hinges last season.  I did not over think it.  The admiral loves them.  Me, not so much.  Make sure they separate.  I used SeaChoice, I believe.  I installed them so they could separate, but the shelf above does prevent this.  So, the hinges shown on the link Steve McGill posted has the hinges you want.  They will allow removal of the pin with the top raised, but not outside of the countertop opening.  That is key.
My SeaChoice hinges will not separate if the lid is not above the countertop, so they must be unscrewed from either the lid or the counter/fiddle I screwed into.

I found CD to have a better price last year than Defender.  I did all my Lewmars.  I used the "upgrade" version, which are a little thicker and matched perfectly.  I believe they came with new O rings as well.  If not, get them as they ended up being the leaking point due to dry-rot. 
The Lewmar site, and CD, advises remove and re-grease (lithium) annually.  I don't know anyone who does that to the o-rings. 

The new lenses look great, crystal clear. 

Late this past summer I contacted Select Plastics.  The turn around was said to be 6 weeks.  The cost, well, my new lens came from CD a week later. 
I have to say the hatches those guys repaired for acquaintances look to be done well.  It appears they know their stuff. They charge accordingly.  If you compare their cost, w/shipping, to a marine yard locally pulling the hatch, redoing the lens and resealing it all, they are likely cheaper. 

On my Pearson 27-2 I hit a Defender sale and the new hatch with shipping was less than the quote from Select Plastics in 2016. Installed w/Rod's Butyl Tape, easy job.

Now, if I could only figure out how to remove the top of the forward hatch to bring it home so I can actually replace the lens, I'd be in business. &*^%!

Good luck.

Yes.

Definitely use some thread locker when you install.  Take your time.  When done, use bright nail polish to mark the nut line to the mount, top and bottom if you can. Use this mark to verify no loosening is taking place.  I check every once in a while, and use a dental mirror for the bottom mark check. 

I replaced my rear engine isolators, originals, in April of 2022 using Vetus K75s.  I put the base into a vise at home.  I used an 8mm allen wrench on top of the post.  They come apart.  Don't overthink it like I did.  The post is on with a loctite like product, so once you crack it, away you go.  I used the same, blue loctite, when I put the post back on the isolator with the base screwed to the engine joist. 

In 2021 I replace the front isolators, originals, with Vetus K75s.  I couldn't build up the nerve to cut the rear ones off during sailing season.   Yes, it did make a difference, but my port side front original was completely shot, so ymmv.  The front took about 20 minutes each side, including putting in new lag bolts. The engine supported itself on three, so really an easy job.

Glenn - if you are still on the hard, let me know. 

Sorry, I just noticed your post.  As for mine, Chesapeake Sailmakers had the specs from a prior install.  I can ask Chuck O'Malley when I pick up my repaired sails this week.  I will let you know.  I have the track "key" rings with the slot keys still, but as to length it really was on-site measure and cut. 
Bill

As to modifications to install the Tides track, none necessary for our 1992 TR.
Agree, the system is great.  I can drop the main "easily" in 20+ kts.  (Wishing I could furl the beast 155 so quickly, but I digress).

I picked mine up from MCS Tools.  Here is the address for the tool itself. "Belt Tension Jack":  https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209

Will,
Glad to hear from you.  Our boat is a 1992 C34, known as the "mark 1.5" as it has a scoop transom, but narrow stern.  The beam width is not carried as far aft as the Mark II.    We keep her in Pasadena/Lake Shore in the Magothy River.  Fleet 12 has a number of boats in the mid bay, and one may be closer than mine.  Where are you located?  Feel free message direct.
Bill
2022 Fleet 12 Captain

Rob - I did use the same tunnel for my install and have had no problems.  However, mine starts on the bimini and goes in near the starboard back-stay.  One very good piece of advice I received was to install a power post at the entry, I used Sea Choice, and a power post at the battery.  Then when you pull the panel or want to add a second, you can just tie onto the power post.  I have a short run from the MPPT charge controller to a fuse block I also installed. 
If you are using a Victron MPPT, you may check their site as some of these are far more efficient with two panels into the charge controller. 
Just a thought.
Bill

I can't give you a name for Middle River, as most in the area likely come from Annapolis.  Tarn Kelsey is an Annapolis based surveyor and writes boat reviews for Spinsheet, which magazine you may want to look at.  Also, the marinas may have business cards for some surveyors.  Talk to the counter people and you may learn something about the surveyor whose card you find.
While not surveyors, there are a fair number of C34s in the area.  I know Maryland Marina has several on the hard still.  Mine is one.
Good luck from the current C34 Fleet Captain, who also invites you to join if the sale works out and you are on the Chesapeake.

Alex,
I have one and love it.   The US distributor, King Propulson, is run by Rod Sampson who is extremely knowledgeable (Ph.D) in engineering, and has gone above and beyond in his service. If you call him, he will answer or call back.  Tell him your engine, and some specs, and he will get you a quote.  You can refer to mine for the specs, he knows me well enough at this point.  I had lots of questions in 2020.I have a 15 on my boat, with a M35 engine.  The PO of our boat put one on in the early 2000's.  I replaced it with a new one in 2020 as a marina worker did something stupid to the original one.  I spoke with the engineer who designed it at the 2019 Annap. Boat show, and with Rod.   You do have to grease the new version once per year, and I pull mine to do so.  (Delos does theirs in the water, or has on youtube.)

Rod's info is:
Roderick Sampson, PhD
Naval Architect - King Propulsion
US Distributor for Bruntons Propellers
   19441 Golf Vista Plaza, Suite 360, Lansdowne, VA 20176
   (757) 962-9219
   roderick@kingpropulsion.com
   https://kingpropulsion.com

As to the stemhead fitting and the longer anchor roller, I purchased from Garhauer as part of the commissioning upon purchase in 2018.  The stemhead fitting did seem to change the forestay tension, in that the forestay turnbuckle needed tightening.  I did have the marina do the stemhead fitting, and was so smitten by the "new" boat, I didn't realize how loose the forestay had become. 

The crack you show is a fairly common problem. I sent the cracked fitting to Garhauer so they made the new, stronger one as an exact match.  Well, not entirely true as the pressure of the stay sets it more precisely as Guido (RIP) explained. 

Garhauer makes some great stuff.  CD, I believe, is not using their stemhead fittings of late.