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  Yes Noah that's right my original universal mounts were drilled cockeyed so my solution was to pull the K75 mounts and buy and install universal mounts in which right away worked for me awesomely. My boat is done and back at sea when I please. My alignment seems perfect

  Thanks for your input. In my case the problem was solved by going back to the universal motor mounts offering horizontal movement. I'm happy things worked well for you. Mine is very good now.

  Yes there is always more then one way to get a job done. Sometimes I forget just how great a resource this forum is for all of us and I'm very grateful to all who has posted in the past, present and the future. I hope to add my own small contributions in the days and years ahead. I totally love my Catalina 34, I solo sail a lot. I find it just the right size to solo sail, sail with a friend or the wife and also to take up to six for a day sail. For its size it's very cost worthy to own for your average man. And for a boat that spends 90 percent of the time in the slip it offers a small condo for a beach house for those like myself who could never afford a beach house. It's the best kept secret capable of transforming a man or woman with an adventurous heart.
  I love the expression " Am I fixing my boat or is my boat fixing ME. Speaking as a man with three knee replacements (a recall) and 3 ankle reconstructions, it has been my boat fixing me, mind body and spirit.

 
  Noah

  Yes my holes were drilled and are cockeyed. There's more than one way to skin a cat and I guess this job could've been approached a few different ways, and may be ways that could save money. In the end, I was a little frustrated. I was so glad to move past this job to the many other jobs I plan on accomplishing.

  Jon

  These were the mounts from Catalina direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed.

  Hi Jon and all.

  I noticed after my install that with my new universal factory slotted motor mounts that the back end of my motor was swung as far to starboard in the motor mount slots as I could go and as far port with the front of the motor in the front motor mounts. I think the original motor mounts must of been placed by a helper or someone with little attention to the future.

  Just a follow up on my motor mounts. Although the K75s have worked on many boats and have been a great choice for others here are some precautions to take before making the choice to go with these cost effective motor mounts K75's. Look at your original factory motor mounts at the large slotted bases. The K75s have no horizontal adjustment built in. I did not look at that. So after installing the K75s and a lot of frustration during the motor alignment and my boat being outside the tolerance of 0.003 mine was at 6 to
0.008 with no adjustment available for horizontal I had to remove the mounts and pay over $800.00 for the factory original. Then Hell yea! Oh my God it was great like a new boat, no vibration even over 2000 RPM accept of course lazarette, padlocks, and a few other loose objects, yet the boat was fantastic. Cannot tell you how good that felt after the big trouble it all was. I actually had to put my motor mounts in with my engine, cockeyed, totally cockeyed. And yet in this cockeyed position, my greatest opening on the flange was that 3 o'clock and about 2000s. So look at your original motor mounts and if you look like you don't need horizontal adjustment go with the K75s and save some good hard earned money. But if your bolts are way sideways in the original mounts, think about sticking with the original. My boat maybe one and 100 but it was a journey. Excuse any typos I'm doing this on my iPhone I almost need a microscope to see it lol I just wanted to pass it all along. And everybody thank you for your help and guidance.

  Thank you Noah for your pointer, I did think about that option, although a good one yet I may still be on the edge for some reason. Maybe my boat was one that was drilled just enough off to still work but not close enough for the K75's. Outside of that my wife is getting ready to beat me over the head, I'm in the process of getting all new canvas, both dodger and Bimini plus a stack pack, a pretty penny. Now spending more money on motor mounts I'm just going to slip down to the boat tail between my legs get her up and working take the wife for a little trip to remind her why we do this Lol. If the flexible coupling was not enough I would have to eat crow twice with the wife. I feel I own a brand new 1987 mark 1, I love everything about the boat and can find no reason short of crossing oceans to upgrade so I went all in during the
Last 4 years.

  My sea trial for my shaft alignment failed today. Between 800 and 1500 RPM really good, could motor at 4.8 knots. 1600 RPM and above the return of the heavy vibration. The vibration from behind the steering wheel under my right foot and along the starboard aft wall. I went below made sure Nothing was just rattling. I open the aft locker and made sure nothing there was just loose and rattling. Because I can get
  12, 3, and 6 PM under 0.003 and 9 PM is like 0.007 or 8 on the shaft flange I made the decision today to suck it up and purchase the original style of motor mounts with the large slots to bring my alignment into tolerance. I hope I do not have cutlass bearing problems but in the end the original expensive motor mounts took my boat 37 years and about 2000 hours. So it's one more time hoisting the motor and R and R the mounts. I just feel I must do something different to get a different result. I want to thank everyone got your thoughts and insights. I will post in about two weeks when I Had a chance to complete this job.
  I have been meaning to post, share some pictures of some of my upgrades with all here. Basically rewired my boat with all victron chargers and Bluetooth devices, radar and a complete windlass install with forward and aft controls. Thanks Stu for your wiring diagram here, I went with it and added my own twist.

   
  A great question, being new to boating/sailing only 4 years now I do not think about these things so I'm glad people like you do. I am in the water, getting in late this afternoon I had a chance to run the motor in gear both forward and reverse against the dock lines. I only went up to 1200 RPM in fear I may tear off a cleat. At this point, there was absolutely no vibration and I took the risk of jumping downstairs to the back cabin and things looked OK. Tomorrow I will take her on a little sea trial and see how that goes. I still have the 5 to 6000s off but I do feel up and down. I'm better aligned to the prop shaft. I have worked as an electrical contractor all my life mostly with machine installations and repairs, but must admit boats are New World but things do work the same. I appreciate everyone's feedback I must admit I'm hoping for a miracle lol do you know you just take it out and it works.

  Thanks for the response Jim, at this point I will not rule out anything. Everything was fine till I neglected a sea water leak on my raw water pump before going into surgery. Once out it had rusted a bleeding hole in my oil pan. I changed my water pump, oil pan and now motor mounts. Outside of that I did not seem to have an alignment problem before I changed out the mounts, just typical stair vibration here and there.

  Ron

  Hopefully I'm successful and post a few pictures. Notice the nuts missing in the front mounts. Dang if one nut just rolled into the front drain hole to the bilge. The other is now a sample for a new nut. Oh well! I will attempt to get 4 extra nuts to lock nuts together then mark if successful.

  Thanks for the response Eric.

  In a sense I'm very fortunate that my lag bolt spots are in very good shape and just for good measure I was able to get bolts about a 1/2" longer at a bolt house in Los Angeles so I'm holding tight. Just for information to anyone doing this job. At harbor freight I purchased for another job a 3/8" ratchet that is triple jointed. This ratchet makes all the difference in the world, that and both standard and deep 9/16" sockets go a long way into making this job a little easier. I just spent $10,000 on new canvas for the dodger plus an added Bimini hand rail covers, covers for everything. If it was not for these guys working on my boat today I would take her out for a test run. If I get her out on Friday or Saturday and I still get the vibration, a rubbing sound (not good) I think I may put an end to this torture, and go back to the original style of motor mounts, which are definitely extremely slotted for some horizontal movement. For now I'll just keep on praying. I've gone as far as leaving all the lag bolt loose just a little and then attempting to use a 4 foot prybar to align the motor to the prop shaft. I have noticed that the motor mount mounting holes do not run parallel to the mounting surface. They're all just a little bit out here and there. Thanks again.

  Thank you for pointing out how I may find away to post pictures. I must admit I'm a little beat to figure it out tonight but again thank you for your effort to help me.

  George

  Hi Ron

  Went to the boat today, jacked up the engine and went to each mount and made sure that it had the best alignment possible with the existing lag bolt holes. Upon dropping the motor back down still the same problem. On the port side it does not matter what I attempt to do with little to no gap at 12 noon, 3 or 6 o'clock I'm between 0.005 and 0.006 at 9 pm. I can find no adjustment that changes this except a few thousands more open. I also turn the flange and all bolt holes open to about 0.005 at 9 pm. Any thoughts, am I still missing something? I don't know how to add pictures yet, but I'll try. Also in a few days I will test my boat and see where my efforts landed me. No worries, if it's still way off I will shoot myself.