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Anybody re-powered their Universal M35BC with a Yanmar 3YM30AE.  I am looking at doing that with my C34 MKII built 1997.  Would live to hear how easy or otherwise this was.  Many thanks

Hello Stu,

No, the tachometer was jumping around prior to me topping-up batteries.  As I say I have tried everything I know and I have still got the problem.  Guess, I'm just going to have to live with it.

Thanks,

Graham

Hello Stu,

Got rid of the battery 2 problem creating higher tacho revs than battery 1.  Charged-up over-night.  Silly error but I thought battery 2 was fully charged.

You are correct about my batteries - both exactly the same 180AH sealed.

The problem I am left with is bouncy tacho and when I switch on ancillaries such as fridge, blower (I know you have views on the need for a blower), and navigation pod, the tacho revs increase notwithstanding engine revs remain unchanged.

Splashed-out on new alternator, new tacho (made by KUS - they sell in the US) and checked wiring by having tested individually with test cable hooked-up direct:
1) tacho to alternator,
2) tacho to negative battery, and
3) tacho to positive battery.

Still have the problem.

Charge at batteries is good at 14.5 VDC on both batteries.  Checked for stray VAC at alternator - less than 0.05 VAC.

Am now checking all wiring through to manual to see whether at some stage I have wired-up something incorrectly - current focus is on key switch and alarm buzzer - both of which I replaced.

Hope you are not suffering too much with the heat-wave I see North America is having.

Kind regards

Has anybody got any thoughts on why my tachometer displays 1000rpm more on battery 2 than battery 1.  I also have some tacho-dancing on both Batt 1 and Batt 2 but more pronounced on Batt 2.  Have done VDC test on 'P' terminal (the one wired to the alternator) and I am getting higher readings on Batt 2.  Have done all the usual checks re wiring and wired tacho direct from battery and alternator.  The only thing I can think of is battery 2 is starting to deteriorate - it holds slightly less charge 12.8 VDC v 13.0 VDC when engine shut down.  Batteries are Varta LFD180 dual purpose and only two years old.

Any thoughts most welcome.

I have a Mando alternator from when the boat was new (1997) and tachometer terminal on the alternator is marked "P".  KUS local agent confirmed the tachometer can be hooked up to alternator.

Getting my alternator repaired at present as over-charging to 15.8v at 3,000 revs with all electrical ancillaries turned on.  I believe that is the reason for the volatility on the tachometer.  Will let you know when I get alternator back and fitted.

Regards

[Quote]

Thank you.
Have checked with KUS and their initial response was
Quote
It sounds like you have electrical issues.
I recommend for you to consult with an electrician so they may go over your electrical system and find the cause.
Unquote
That was from their Technical Support in Florida.
They then recommended a remedy that was a cut & paste from their one-page installation instructions.  Not impressed, so went to their HO in Taiwan - am awaiting a response.

KUS tachometer sender input is from the W terminal on the alternator.

I recently replaced all my Teleflex engine instruments on my Catalina 34 Mk2 yacht (1376) with KUS Q series gauges.  The engine is Universal Westerbeke M35BC with 2,000 hours and the alternator was factory-supplied with the engine.

The new tachometer (ranges up to 4000 RPM) reads accurately with all electrical accessories switched off.  However, when I switch on any one of the refrigeration, engine blower fan or chart plotter, the tachometer over-reads especially on higher revolutions.  If I have the engine revolutions at 3,000 revs and then switch on engine blower fan, the tachometer read increases to 4,000 revs, although actual engine revolutions remain the same at 3,000 RPM.  Individual battery monitors are both reading constant 14 volt irrespective of whether refrigeration, engine blower or chart plotter is on, so I think that the alternator and positive / negative wiring is OK.

My Positive and Negative wiring for the engine panel are wired through Bus Bars which feed all engine switches and instruments.  Whilst the chart plotter and engine blower switch are located near the tachometer (on the binnacle), the refrigeration and blower fan are both located some 1 metre from the tachometer.  Also I believe the refrigeration unit wiring to be on a separate loom although all ultimately converge onto the main electrical control panel below decks.

Any ideas as to fixing this would be much appreciated.

Please see attached pdf copy - hope this helps.

Thanks Alex, the sheaves I was after were those for the traveller carriage not the end blocks to the traveller.

On your issue of the end blocks, I have two triple blocks and all six sheaves had seized.  I am told that the reason they seize is salt and lubicating oil (should not use WD40 or normal lubes) as they jam the ball bearings.   The jammed ball-bearings then wear down on one side and make indents in the housing.

I tried to get replacement sheaves, but could not find them; they are a slightly different size to those on the carriage 1 3/4" diameter, 5/8" wide with a bore of 3/8".  So I bought some Delrin (Acetal) 3/16" plastic ball-bearings; Torlon are better, but I could not find them at a reasonable price in the UK.  Took off blocks with the help of PB Blaster, took out sheaves and popped-out the old ball-bearings.  That will leave the outer ring and central core loose.   

Degreased, cleaned and sanded-back the housing (both outer ring and core); worth spending a bit of time to get them clean and smooth.  Then got two ice-cream sticks to raise the outer housing to line-up the ball-bearing tracks, placed all ball bearings for one side on the track and then used a flexible piece of plastic (indian take-away box lid) to cover all the ball-bearings and gently squeased them back into the track.  You need to use a flexible piece of plastic to cover them all otherwise the balls will pop out.  Turned the sheave over and inserted ball bearings on the other side.  Gave the new ball-bearings a few drops of "McLube One Drop" (what should be used to lubricate plastic ball-bearings) and assembled back together.  While you are at it, might as well replace the cam-cleats (Harken standard size -Height: 30mm - Width: 32mm) and replace securing bolts (UNF 10/32 x 1 1/2") and use a bit of Loctite Threadlocker - it also protects against corrosion.

Took me 4 hours to do and is much cheaper than getting an upgrade.  Hope you find this useful.

Thanks all, I did contact Garhauer (the manufacturer of my traveller) but they do not stock the sheaves I was after as they are at least 24 years old and now obsolete. Barton do a similar size diameter and width but slightly smaller bore.  So am getting them and will drill the bore out to 5/16 inch.  By the way I have found Garhauer really helpful over the years and in my experience they produce first class products delivered with first class service - great company.  Again thanks to all who responded.

Looking for one sheave / pulley wheel for my 1997 C34 MkII.  Can be seized, don't mind as will be replacing ball-bearings.  Dimensions of sheave are 1 3/4 inch dia, 5/8 inch wide and 5/16 inch hole / bore.  So if you have recently replaced traveller and have a sheave / pulley that you don't want, will pay what you want plus postage.

Thanks Rob, knew about C Direct, but at $129 per sheet + taxes and carriage to UK, gets too expensive.  Think I might take up your suggestion with needle & thread.

Anyone know where I can get fitted sheets for a C34Mk2?

Thanks Pablo,
Have now replaced whole system and yes I did connect new to old and pulled it through.  I also repositioned engine-end of duct at top of engine compartment, via locker below sink in heads.  I thought the original design of positioning the inboard outlet opposite the inboard inlet was not good as it merely expelled the fresh air.

Graham

Stu,

This was in fact an abridged version (minus photos as I do not know how to upload them) of an article that I wrote for Mainsheet Vol 36, No.4 Winter 2018.

By the way whilst this might sound a big job, once you get into it, it is of course a number of small simple tasks.

Perhaps you could help me, I am replacing the engine vents + ducting + blower and at first sight looks a fiddly job (head down the lazerette working 90 degrees) that I know will result in some colourful language.  Reason for replacement is existing hoses breaking-up, blower making a screeching noise and high revs sees black smoke.  Do you know of anyone who has done it as there must be a simple way.

Graham