Messages

Thanks Ron! :)

Any idea what the torque is on those delivery valve holders? I also need to change out those o-rings and am afraid of over tightening!

Good news! I have checked my compression and each cylinder looks good! So happy to rule out a head gasket issue. I think my next step is going to be inspecting the heat exchanger for pin holes.

Hi Switchback -  I haven't tried this myself, other than to get parts, but maybe you could try some of the local Kubota dealers to see if they have a mechanic willing to do the work?  Jim

Interesting thought! I'll check into that, thanks!

[Occam's Razor!!!]

What makes you say that -- does she run any differently "now" than "before"?

The engine has only run four times this season.

First was about 5 minutes, moving the boat from my winter slip to my summer slip - no issues there.

The second was a sail to an island (engine ran for maybe 1hr total) - no issues.

Third time was another sail to a mooring - this is where I noticed the white smoke, I chalked it up to condensation due to temp difference between water and air. Engine ran for maybe 45 min.

Fourth time sailed to another mooring - white smoke again in exhaust and was thicker than previously. Engine was on for another hour.

I noticed the engine temp was about 5 degrees higher than normal - checked coolant and I lost about half an inch of fluid. Oil was fine, no signs of water in diesel, no signs of exterior coolant leakage.

I am seriously hesitant to run the engine without further diagnostic. If the head gasket IS blown and coolant is diluting the oil that is bad news for the pistons and cylinders or so I have read

Year of the engine?

Engine is original to my 1986 c34

Any maintenance on it, such as
   * changing the Hx, or is it original? (2"? or 3"?)
   * changing or disturbing the exhaust flange or gasket on the exhaust manifold? - I did recently remove and replace the entire exhaust riser including flange and gasket. First attempt I did not get a proper seal on the pipe threads going into the flange. I removed again and properly sealed/tightened all pipe connections and changed out the gasket for a new one. My thought was that if I did not properly seat the flange gasket that the coolant could be leaking directly into the exhaust riser from the back of the manifold. I checked with a diesel mechanic and they said this would not be possible. (I still think this is a possibility however I spent a long time ensuring that the surfaces that the gasket mates to were spotless)

Are you losing a quart a day or a cup a month? Perspective.
What are the sea conditions?  temp/humidity when you notice that?  Possibly high humidity and low sea temp?

It was early season when I noticed the white smoke, and truth be told I did notice other boats with white smoke coming from the exhaust at that time, but due to the issue occurring on separate occasions and the white smoke increasing in thickness I kind of ruled this out as being steam from condensation.

If you have a cylinder that isn't exploding correctly due to compression or the injector you can sequentially crack open the fuel line to each cylinder (interrupting the fuel flow) -- (use protection to keep diesel from blowing all over.)  When a "bad" cylinder is hit the change in RPM, rough running, will not be as great as when other "normal" cylinders are not firing.   

If she's losing coolant and there's a cloud following her -- then WHAT IS the cloud if it's not coolant (i.e., steam??)  is there a coolant odor?

I was unable to detect an odor as the smoke was trailing behind and not wafting into the cockpit

Pressure test the Hx if it is "old," you could be losing coolant thru there - more likely than a blown head gasket.  Occam's Razor!!!  You can do that on-engine with a simple pressure gauge or get a simple/CHEAP Horror Fright brake line vacuum tester -- it's worth its weight in Rubles when troubleshooting water and fuel line leaks.

I purchased a compression test kit on Amazon for quite cheap that supposedly comes with the correct glow plug adapter. I will probably start here. If compression is normal then I think the next logical step is HX or a leak into exhaust riser

On a diesel, I have always had it done through the glow plug socket.  As for threads etc, I would suggest pulling one and head to the plumbing shop and see what you can make up.  Most easily available compression test kits will be for the spark plug socket.

I just ordered a kit which I believe comes with the correct glow plug adapter. Fingers crossed! Seems much easier than having to pull each injector.

Fix it yourself?  We are here to help.

I do most of the work on my boat. However, I am not confident in my ability to replace a head gasket. Also, I need it fixed as soon as possible as I am in a time crunch. I'd like to get the work done before a regatta! It will take me too much time. I also don't like the thought of completely tearing the engine apart, as I am a liveaboard and the mess would be pretty stressful. Ideally, I'd like to have a mechanic take care of it as quickly as possible. If I must DIY this then I will just have to suck it up and come here for the help! ;)

[Make darn sure that you turn OFF the raw water thru hull when you do that check!]

Switch : While others will give you the details on a compression check let me give you one tip!!  Make darn sure that you turn OFF the raw water thru hull when you do that check!!!

A thought

Good call out, that could be disastrous!

Boston area sailors,

Does anyone have recommendations on marine mechanics? I am having a hell of a time getting in touch with mechanics. I have made many calls and left many voicemails only to be ghosted. At this point I've tried 4 or 5 different mechanics and am running out of options. I understand that this is a busy time of year but I can't even get in touch with anyone. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Ahoy everyone!

So, I've got a potential head gasket issue. I need to perform a compression test. I've searched the forum but I have been unable to locate a step-by-step. Has anyone had experience completing this diagnostic and willing to provide me with some detailed steps on doing this? I'm having a hard time figuring out what adpaters/threads to use and what compression test kit to buy. Just feeling a bit uncomfortable doing this myself and can't get a mechanic to come out.

Some more info about the issue:
Universal M25
White smoke in exhaust (definitely not steam)
Coolant loss (no visible leaks)
Oil level normal (no gunk on oil cap)
No water in diesel

Any help would be super appreciated! Thanks! :)

Here is my solution. I snagged a small sheet of acrylic from Home Depot and cut it size, leaving the inboard side open so I can reach below. I added a lip on the edge to prevent things from sliding off and also stuck on clear rubber stoppers on shelf support lip to stop the entire shelf from sliding around. It's been working really great. Super happy with it!

So do I understand this orientation correctly that your slot is on the "port" side of the ice box to allow for reaching to the shelf below?  Thus you have a full width shelf at the outer starboard side that goes full width fore and aft?

This looks pretty slick.  The slightly lost space on the top shelf seems made up by the HUGE ease of access (not having to unload a shelf to remove it).  Hmmmm... Might have to experiment.

Yes, you got it! My cold plate is located on the port side wall of the ice box. The boat came without a cold plate as the PO removed it since it didn't work. I installed a new cold plate with a different shape and thus needed a custom shelf. I went a year without one and finally got around to making it to rid myself of the bottomless pit that became the fridge! I live aboard and this was a huge improvement. There is still a good amount of space on the upper shelf and tons of space below. I can fit tall items closest to the port side and there's plenty of room for beers. (In the photo I posted I clearly needed to restock!)

Switch

A technical question....

I believe I spied the mix, lime, hot sauce, and Worcester sauce. 
But no horseradish for the Bloody Mary's??????

More of a dark and stormy guy myself, sorry to disappoint! The First Mate however...

Here is my solution. I snagged a small sheet of acrylic from Home Depot and cut it size, leaving the inboard side open so I can reach below. I added a lip on the edge to prevent things from sliding off and also stuck on clear rubber stoppers on shelf support lip to stop the entire shelf from sliding around. It's been working really great. Super happy with it!

Noah, what is included in the kit? Do you think it is temporarily (2 days of sailing) okay for me to get M6 stainless bolts, cut the heads off and apply anti seize?

Ahoy everyone!

I'm replacing my Oberdorfer water pump with the same, and I've seen many threads on this. My question, however, is what would you recommend replacing the studs with? I've seen anywhere from stainless steel bolts with the heads cut off to silicon bronze studs. The previous studs are garbage. Any help would be great! Thanks!