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Wire brush and painting sounds like a good idea.  If in bad shape I'd replace to be on the safe side but some scofflaws have refilled their tank by using a typical 20lb/bbq tank (turned upside down so the liquid flows).  Lots of adapters on amazon or make your own.  Connect and then open both valves.  If the tank is not filling you may need to loosen the vent screw on the tank that is being filled for a second or two.  Finish by closing both valves (bbq side first) and then disconnecting the tanks.  If you're not sure / uncomfortable working with propane take the tank to be refilled.  There are options to trade-in / re-validate tanks but your local sources may vary.

This was the impeller that came w/ my new water pump I bought years ago (after rebuilding the previous one and having it leak again).  I've rebuilt my new water pump a few years ago and w/ a clean HX no dripping.  As others have mentioned making sure there is no build up on the seawater inlet side of the HX is key to lower pressure / dripping.

I believe this this impeller was just too old though it sounds like it can happen at any age.  I'll say again - bad design.  Seems like they should have some splined/keyed texture on the outside of the keyed core.

Back to my old trusty run dry blue globe impeller. 

Time to find a good source for a spare (current spare is really old).

I just updated the wiki but figured I add my recent experience here.

I noticed yesterday there was no water pumping out of the exhaust.  Quick check of the impeller and it looked fine.  I cleaned the strainer, pulled the hoses and all seemed clear yet it still wouldn't pump.  I popped in an old globe blue impeller and all was well.  Did I miss something?  Slightly worn profile w/ cover plate groves the cause?  Seems like I would still be getting some water as I primed the lines, etc.

Doing some head scratching at home today with what looked like a perfectly good impeller I noticed the metal portion that is keyed to the shaft was more or less free spinning inside the rubber impeller itself.  Poor design I would say as it looks like more of a friction fit between the metal and the rubber. 

Anyway... a simple heads up when doing an impeller check as I'm sure I'm not the first or the last w/ this issue.

Maybe a rare item but figured I'd put this out there.  Email: my last name  @ big.net or the site Webmaster address.

-d

Looking for something that has enough life in it to stand up SF winds, UV cover and tape for #6 foil.
Anything from a 100% up to 130%

Boat in SF Bay.  Thx

The Wiki is just fine  (however there was a typo in the link to it on the Wiki's Diesel Engine page - fixed now). 

If you look closer you can see that the BBS link isn't including the closing  ")"  at the end of the URL - one of many Simple Machines / BBS bugs.

As you mentioned cut & paste of the printed URL works...    I wouldn't hold my breath that Simple Machines will fix this bug anytime soon so maybe keep Wiki pages names more succinct in the future.  Page has some good tips... HX is typically the bit that needs cleaning on my boat.

Finally basic search works as well:
https://www.google.com/search?q=%22ONE+PROCEDURE+TO+FLUSH+the+ENGINE+CLOSED+COOLANT+SYSTEM+-+from+RC%22

I would start by checking your hosts & HX for build up, the added pressure can cause the pump to drip.

1 drop/min isn't that bad... I think you could get a Bahamas trip in there w/o worry about getting out of control (famous last words?)
Bring your rebuild kit.  Generally the don't just go from dripping to full failure.

Mine, even though it doesn't have that many hours on it is dripping ever 10 or seconds - or more when the hoses/heatX get some build up in them - it's been dripping for a few years - started only a few years after I replaced it.  I've finally got a rebuild kit which I'll pop in one day - it's not hard to rebuild.

Finally until it stops dripping I'd suggest a make shift cover for your engine mount to protect it from salt water.

Enjoy the Bahamas!  I hope a few drips hold you up.

If you just want to use it motoring the engine driven hot water heater works great.  Pumps out the heat and drys out the cabin and even warms up the cockpit near the companionway.
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Cabin_Heater
Also works nicely on occasion running the motor on the hook to charge the batteries a bit and make some hot water / dry the cabin out.

I'm not sure about using my portable diesel heater in any kind of serious wind/waves but I think it would be fine on the side deck conditions permitting.
I just put mine on the side deck just outside and open hatch with a short stub of ducking but I imagine it could be secured closer to the mast and with a longer duct pump warm/dry air into the cabin underway in moderate conditions w/o serious spray.
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Cabin_Heater_-_Portable

As far as the chinese made heater's safety I feel a whole lot better about using it than my tent propane heater.  Of course I used a carbon monoxide monitor for either.  Also the diesel heater pumps out the heat... my tent heater did knock off the chill but you had to be close to it ... and again, doesn't dry things out like the other heaters.  As mentioned on the wiki page I update the fuel line to get a cleaner burn and it's been trouble free since then.  All of the "shoe box" diesel heaters are pretty complex so can have issues (mainly glow plug & atomizing screen) but outside of that they perform really well.  Here's a fun guy who cruises N. of the Artic circle - does a comparison of different types of diesel heat (eg Refleck) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV3KsQe7VPI

I just installed a Standard Horizon 1850G (built in GPS & NMEA2000/0183 compatible) as I already have a AIS setup.  The 1850GWith built in GPS the DSC emergency alert system is ready to go, just sign up for a free MMSI number, enter the number into the radio and you're good to go. ($185 after rebate)

VHF at the masthead seems like the best option but a whip on the stern is a bit easier of an install.

The latest Standard Horizon is the GX2400 w/ AIS as well as (finally) NMEA2000 and NMEA0813 and GPS.  (current price $370)

I still haven't used the heater onboard but I've learned quite a bit about these heaters (especially how critical a proper fuel hose is & how distributors cut a few corners - surprise) but with a few mods the heater is reliably (so far) pumping out heat with an impressively clean exhaust output.  I've been using it outside at night while and may also use in my workshop this winter.   Tent heater?

I started a wiki page (I'll add more photos once I get onboard) if anyone is interested.

https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Cabin_Heater_-_Portable

Thanks Dave, I appreciate you for taking the measurements, that helps a lot.

It sounds like I'll be able to place the heater athwartship with a few inches to spare and direct the hot air directly into the cabin w/ the exhaust pointing outboard.

I may raise the outboard edge/base an inch or so to just sit on the toerail but with a catch of sorts underneath.  That will also help level the unit out as well as raise the exhaust pipe further off the deck.

I'll take some photos of the "install" and post ... whenever I get to see the boat again - currently in Tahoe trying to avoid the smoke from all the CA forest fires.

Thanks Ron, sounds nice spot for the generator as well.  Good to hear it's stable.

I figured it would sit nicely lengthwise on the deck and I think I the exhaust pipe would clear the toe rail.
(I'm going to wrap it in fiberglass exhaust wrap but I still want an air gap)

If I could mount it athwartship the hot air vent could line up with the portlight and the exhaust would easily clear the deck if the outboard end/base was sitting on top of the toe rail.    It would also make it easier to step over and less likely to bump into the exhaust pipe.

Good to know I have options.

I'm in the process of setting up a portable diesel heater (may do a permanent install later) and thinking of setting/securing it on the deck near the shrouds just outside one of the opening portlights and pumping fresh/dry/warm air in while the exhaust stays outside/outboard.   Unit is self contained 10W x 15L x 12H complete with a 5L fuel tank & pump, just plug into 12v and control w/ a remote. (see image)  I paid $120 on Amazon.

I'm sure I'll be able to secure it well, especially with a custom base perhaps designed to sit/catch inside the toe rail, but I'm still trying to figure out the best orientation.

Anyone near their c34 (MkI preferred) that could measure the deck width from inside of the toe rail to the base of the cabin top by the cap shroud & the height of the opening portlight?   

(I'm holed up 200 miles & 6400' from the sea but boat projects continue!)

Thanks - I'll post some photos, perhaps on a wiki page, when I finally get to use it this fall.

Thanks for the heads up.  Compatibility issues w/ everything! 

Should be good for now... will need to update the wiki software to support more current/supported versions of the underlying scripting language is uses.

Hey c34 skippers ... come on out for the annual Great Vallejo Race - racer & cruiser fleets!

Sign up here:  https://www.jibeset.net/YRA000.php?RG=T007080013

Please feel free to comment / communicate via this topic here.