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I have a 34 mk2 with the M35B engine with a campbell sailor prop.

Stamped on one side of the hub is"D14 RH P8".  On the other side is "S20707"

I have photos, but can't figure out how to attach them.

Craig

Hello All,

After replacing the temp sender, running a new length of wire from the sender to the gauge, and working through the teleflex trouble shooting guide, the gauge would still pin high.  The only other piece of the system it could be was the gauge, so I just bought one from Catalina Direct and Voila.

Confirmed that it was a faulty gauge.  Bought a replacement from Catalina Direct which resolved the issue.

Thanks for all of the assistance.

Craig

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remove the sender"?

Thanks for "staying in the game".  The gauge is the only thing that hasn't been replaced or bypassed.  I'll order from from CD and report back once installed.

Hello All,

Sorry KWKloeber, the gauge is reading those values I quoted above with the engine cover open, and continues to give erroneous (high) reading with the engine cover closed.

The wiring harness with the S wire is 12 gauge, I believe, and the temporary wire I've used to by pass the wiring harness is 14 gauge.  If the ground to the instrument panel is the culprit, wouldn't all of the gauges be giving incorrect readings?

Ron, I do have an infrared temp. gun and it consistently reads ~170 - 175'F.

Thanks,
Craig

After removing the S wire from the gauge, the resistance from the S wire to the panel ground (checked using the G post on the temp gauge) IS 970 ohms.  Checking the resistance at the sender again (cold this AM) is 900 ohms.

When the gauge started displaying inaccurate readings it was sporatic with it going from "pinned" high to reading normal.  Then the frequency diminished until it always reads >240.

This morning with the engine cool, when I engerize the panel the gauge reads ~170'F.

Not sure it this tells you anything...

Thanks,
Craig

Now with nicer weather, I've gone through the Teleflex trouble shooting guide.

Here are my findings following the steps on pg 348:
1. voltage from I to G terminals is 12.5V.  No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F. "S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
2. resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.

I cut back the sender wire at the sender to ensure "bright" copper and crimped a new marine ring terminal.

I checked the bus bar connections within the navpod housing, all looked to be in good condition.  Gauge still rests at >240'F.

I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge.  Gauge still shows >240'F.

Based on #3 on the trouble shooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?

Not sure where to go from here.  Any advice would be appreciated.

I'll try to call the Teleflex number on Monday, but I can't find them on the internet, so I don't think they are around any longer.

Thanks,
Craig

I have a similar issue on a mkII with a Universal M35B Engine.

I've recently replaced the temp sender with a new one from Catalina Direct, when that didn't fix the problem (gauage stating the temp was >240'), I found and read through this thread.

Today I ran a new S wire direct from the new sender to the gauge and the gauge still showed >240'F.

A couple of other points.  With the S wire disconnected, the gauge pins low.  As soon as the gauge is reconnected with a warm engine the gauge pins hot.  When starting from cold, that gauge reads low, but quickly shows increasing temperature until it is pinned hot. 

Looking at the new sender I realized that I used teflon tape to ensure no leaks at the thermostat, so I removed it, wire brushed it, reinstalled it and still the gauge reads <240'F.  Am I correct that if the sender isn't grounding to the engine (teflon tape), I would get a high temp reading?

I would also be interested to know if/when someone purchases these, as I would like one to convert my 90A LN alternator.

HiAlex,

The HE under the sink in the head has two fans.  One is controlled by the salon thermostat and provides heat the head and to the companion way.  The other fan is dedicated to the aft cabin and is controlled by a Hi - Low - Off switch in the aft cabin.

Cheers,
Craig

Robert,

You could be my twin!

I just installed a Chins 300 Ah Lithium battery after my 2 flooded lead-acid batteries died.  I opted for the Victron Orion DC to DC charger as well.  I'm curious about your system, do you ever see the full 30 Amps from the Orion when running your engine at speed?  I typically only see 25 Amps max.

I installed a Victron Muliplus 2000 horizontally under the nav station and left the OEM Charles battery charger under the galley dedicated to the aux battery.

I have 3, 100 Watt flexible solar panels zippered onto my bimini and a single Victron Solar charge controller.

Now that I have the Lithium and the Multiplus, I "installed" a portable 2 burner induction cooktop over my OEM stove.  In the winter, making 2 meals and a pot of coffee, plus running the hydronic heat all night (we live in the PNW), it's time to head back to the marina for a little shore power.  I am very curious how well my 300 watts of solar will offset the induction cooktop in the summer with full sun and no electrical demand for heat.  I've been thinking about how to install additional solar on my dodger, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to route the cables.

Cheers,
Craig

Hello Alex,

We have a 2004 mk2 that we bought (used) with an Espar Hydronic heater installed.

The diesel boiler is installed on the forward bulkhead of the aft starboard locker and the expansion tank is in the same locker but mounted on the port bulkhead beside the shower box.  My mk2 might be different than your mk1.5.

I have 3 heat exchangers, one under the sink in the head, which has 3 ducts, one to the aft cabin, one to the companion way, and the 3rd to the head.  The second HE is located in the salon under the SB setee.  This HE is controlled only by the thermostat installed by the nav station.  The 3rd HE is in the V berth.  Both the V berth and Aft cabins have a High - Off - Low switch.

Let me know if you have other questions.  If you would like, I can take and send photos this weekend when we are back out on the boat.

Cheers,
Craig

Hi Roc,

I've just removed mine to get access to the oil pressure switch.

There is the hinged lid, then a piece that runs fore and aft on the starboard side and another that runs fore / aft on the port side.  I removed the screws holding the SB piece from inside the aft cabin, with these removed, I was able to lift the plywood forming the forward end of the engine compartment to about waist height where there is enough clearance to push the SB side of the plywood aft enough to allow it to clear the corner mouldings.

Good luck,
Craig

Rob,

I have a 2004 mk2 that I purchased with a Raymarine below deck autopilot (very nice!) with a rudder position indicator.

The indicator is mounted to the flange of the aft tank "box", and connected to the rudder post using a hose clamp.

When I bought the boat the connection to the rudder post was not zero'd when rudder was straight, so after fixing this and realizing the precariousness of the install, I am careful with what is stored in the aft lockers, and how the what is stored.

Cheers,
Craig