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I have a dodger & frame on my '87 I'm about to have replaced through the winter with a taller California style.  The frame is in good condition. The Dodger had the isinglass replaced just last spring.  The canvas is in decent shape but does need some stitching repair.  I live in South Jersey and keep my boat on the Chesapeake.  I expect to be taking it off the boat in the first half of November when I decommission her.

Do you still have your old dodger and frame? What color is the canvas?

Thanks, that actually helps a lot.

This part it leaking out water when the water pressure is on and the galley faucet is used. Any ideas what this is and what a current replacement part would be?

I know there's quite a few settings to dial in, but I was specifically thinking about the Belt Manager max setting I could use and still keep the 3/8" belt from disintegrating.

I think I've made my decision. I'll probably go with the "Universal/Westerbeke 105A Externally Regulated Alternator" with the MC-614 from mainesail. Now I just need to convince the Admiral.

With the 105A what belt manager setting would you recommend? I'm guessing 4.

[With the Leece-Neville the reg is adjustable so set it for 14.4 -14.6 and call it a day. If you need float on a sail boat perhaps its time for a trawler cause you're running the engine a LOT....]

You guys are great!

After my initial research and reading, I was pretty much sold on getting the Balmer MC-614 external regulator. I just wasn't sure what alternator to pair with it. In my search to find info on what alternators would best fit my M25 I started seeing and reading some posts about how external regulators might be overkill on a sailboat. I began second guessing that decision.

Thanks Mainesail for that very helpful assessment. I really appreciate the time you take with issues like this.

Sterling produced an even simpler three stage regulator without a fan (the AR12VD) but I am not sure if it is still available or if it would work for my setup. I am looking for the simplest 3 stage regulation of a Leece Neville 105amp alternator charging 4 T-105s which I never run down below 50%. My 1999 Heart In Charge regulator is still working but I am trying to settle on a satisfactory replacement in advance of the inevitable day when the Heart unit will fail.

BTW, my Heart unit has been installed high up in my 1999 C34 Mk II engine compartment for over a decade and the heat (engine runs at 160 degrees) doesn't appear to have affected it so far. I don't know if it has proven to be as vulnerable to heat as the Balmar MC-614.

Why do you feel you need a three stage regulator? Bulk and absorption, in most cases, are more than adequate. With the Leece-Neville the reg is adjustable so set it for 14.4 -14.6 and call it a day. If you need float on a sail boat perhaps its time for a trawler cause you're running the engine a LOT....

Even for a "long time", on a sailboat, which is not a "long time" 14.4V to 14.6V is perfectly adequate. Keep in mind the hundreds of millions of vehicles, busses, tractors, industrial equipment and 18 wheelers out there running simple dual stage regs and pushing 14.4v - 14.6V all day long.

I just don't see a need for a float stage on sailboat alternators. Chargers left permanently connected, yes, alternators on trawlers, sure, sailboats sure, if you never sail..

This stage is perhaps the number one cause of undercharging on sailboats because nearly all of these regs go into float far to early and well before the bank is at 98% SOC....

(I read a few more posts/topics like these but can't find them now.)

I know I would prefer to have the Balmer MC-614 and the ability to program it for optimum control and output efficiency from an upgraded alternator. I'm still leaning heavily in that direction. However, the question remains and is what I keep asking myself; is it the best use of somewhere around an additional $350? Would that be better spent elsewhere on boat upgrades/projects? My list is VERY long and of course always longer than my set budget goals.

Getting from 50-85% SOC is all I'm really shooting for with the alternator. I know it will be more efficient using a Balmar external regulator. But how much more so?

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Hypothetical Comparison:
90 amp alternator with an internal semi-dumb regulator set at around 14.4-14.6 vs. 105 amp alternator with a smart regulator (Balmar MC-614) with the recommended advanced settings (including depowering the output as suggested).

Who much difference in engine run time would I realistically be able to see in order to put back in the 160 Ah or so to get from 50-85% SOC?
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On somewhat of a side note - I will add the ability to engage "small engine mode" either way.

As far as solar goes... Solar would be GREAT!!! I'd love to have it right now! However, adding solar would be an additional $1,000+ in my estimation for what I'd like to add and I don't have a good place to install the panels just yet. I would like to add a dodger and bimini down the road but currently my topside is bare. That's another high dollar upgrade that is on my list at some point and would come first before adding solar.

@Stu - Just out of curiosity, now that you are in the PNW, what kind of performance are you getting out of your solar system and what setup are you using?

[Objective]

I’m thinking about replacing my current 51 AMP alternator. I'm looking for current recommendations for my specific use case and boat setup for cruising in the PNW. There's a lot of motoring around in the mid-summer months in this area.

This summer our main vacation will be another 2 week trip to the San Juan Islands and surrounding areas. Our favorite places to go are state parks and anchorages with no facilities and obviously no shore power. We do a lot of island hopping with 1-4 hour runs between each stop and stay for 1-2 nights at each one. We get pretty close to the 50% SOC at times and plan our trip so we aren’t away from shore power for more than 3-4 nights at a time due mostly to battery requirements.

The following summer of 2019 we'll be spending about 3 weeks traveling further north into Desolation Sound and will definitely want some more independence from shore power. I could see us occasionally running the engine at anchor for a few hours a day to extend our time at a particular anchorage.

Objective
- Stay out longer than 3-4 nights away from shore power
- Quicker and more efficient battery charging from the alternator
- Easy swap out install of the alternator (same foot print and dimensions)
- Keep the budget in check

Battery Usage Overview
-  90-95% of consumption is simply running the fridge

House Bank (under settee in front of the sink)
- 4 x 6v Golf Cart Batteries
- Duracell (BatteriesPlus) #SLIGC115
- Total Capacity = 460 Ah

Reserve Bank (under port settee)
- 1 x 12v Starting Battery
- Duracell (BatteriesPlus) #SLI48H6M
- Capacity = 70Ah

Current Engine and Alternator Setup
- Universal M25 Motor
- Prestolite 51 AMP 8MR2049K w/built-in regulator
- Alternator output wired to the house bank
- ACR between house bank and reserve bank

Plan Options
- Option 1: Install a Leece-Neville alternator with an adjustable internal regulator
- Option 2: Install an alternator with a Balmar (MC-614) external regulator

A Few Questions
- Would a 90 amp Leece-Neville alternator with an adjustable internal regulator work well for my use?
- AND/OR - Would adding a Balmar MC-614 external regulator be worth the cost for my given use?
- What kind of outputs could I realistically expect to get out of 70, 90, and a 100 amp alternators paired with an external smart regulator in the bulk charge phase?
- On the other hand, what kind of output could I realistically get from 70, 90, and a 100 amp alternators with a built-in yet adjustable regulator?
- What part#'s would I be the best fit for my engine/boat?
- Any recommendations on where to buy from?


PS: Before our trip last year I upgraded much of the boats electrical system. What a huge improvement that has been. Big shout out to Stu, Mainsail, and many others for all the great info that's been shared regarding electrical upgrades.

[if you absolutely have to, you can slightly soften the butyl with a q-tip and some mineral spirits and go for it.]

Russ

I'm not familiar with what you are specifically doing....

Our traveler tracks are bolted to the cabin top from the top of the traveler track with large screws into steel plates embedded into the vertical supports on the cabin-top. I plan on using the same screws to re-attach the new traveler track as well as add long bolts that go all the way through. Sealing the bottom of the track with the cabin-top is straightforward enough as is sealing the screw heads that go all the way through.

I'm wondering what others are doing to seal screw heads at the top of the traveler track that can only be tightened from above and thus require turning the screw head. It seems like it's pretty important to NOT turn the screw head to get the best results. Will I not get a good seal at those screw head locations? Is it not that big of a deal?





I think I just found my answer... had to read Main Sails article with a little more attention to detail... Plus, his new site has a few more tidbits of info on this particular article.

Apply Backing Plates & Tighten

Step 7 – Install the backing plates, in this case I just used fender washers, and begin to tighten the fitting.

Please use suitable backing plates. These fender washers would not be the best choice in a stanchion or deck cleat as they are far to thin and a little on the small side, diameter wise, for a cored deck.

You will be best to have two people or a good way to keep the bolt from moving. Ideally you do not want the machine screw or bolt to spin, but if you absolutely have to, you can slightly soften the butyl with a q-tip and some mineral spirits and go for it. If the bolt does spin slightly, with butyl, this is not the end of the world and you will still likely get a water tight seal. If you can minimize both twisting that is great if not do your best to minimize it.

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

The "will still likely get a water tight seal" is what worries me a little.

Any tips on bedding the traveler?

I'll be removing my original Nicro "X-track" traveler and replacing with a used Garhauer system this weekend. I'll be using butyl tape but am wondering how to go about sealing the large screws that mount into the glassed-in backing plate that require turning the screws from the topside.

I've been reviewing Main Sail's rebedding deck hardware article on his site. It makes total sense to tighten from below deck but what do you do when that's not an option?

Oh, and I'm also putting in the through bolts as listed in critical upgrades section while I'm at it. Those two bolts won't need to turn from the top as they will be tighten from below deck.

Yup, I agree that you would still want a good handhold accessible! That was one of the reasons I went with the articulating adjustable mount. Many mounting options with that mount in various configurations. I'm just not happy with any of them that I've tried yet. With the chartplotter directly on top of the pedestal I think it blocks too much forward view while sitting down. With the chartplotter on the side makes walking past difficult. That's why I'm thinking about Maine Sail's approach. I do have a 9" display so it takes up a little more horizontal space than the Garmin 741.

The "fixed rail mount" I mentioned does somewhat limit the handhold, however, it does not completely block access. With the articulating adjustable mount I'm able to get the chartplotter pretty much in the same location as the fixed rail mount. I could still easily grab the guard rail on either side. This picture I found online shows this to some degree.

I've been looking at mounting options for my B&G install quite extensively. I too wanted to be able to swivel the chartplotter to face the cockpit as we sit there quite often when the autopilot is engaged.

Here's some options to consider that might be just what you are looking for.
Scanstrut RL-RM - FIXED RAIL MOUNT



I'm not sure if this is the correct "top plate" for your plotter but I think it is...
Scanstrut RL-507 ROKK 'TOP PLATE'


I ended up going with this...
Scanstrut RL-ARM - ADJUSTABLE RAIL MOUNT


I chose this thinking that mounting slightly to the side would be my preferred spot. However, I think I might be leaning towards Maine Sail's mounting option and forget about having having chartplotter swivel to face forward. I'll try out what I've got for a while before making my decision to change though.

Maine Sail's beautiful mounting option that I'm considering...
Chart Plotter Mount For Edson Pedestals

Thanks Stu - I've read through the Electrical Systems 101 section multiple times and I'm sure I'll need to do so a few dozen more times. What a great resource but a little overwhelming at the same time. I've learned a lot from those but know I've got a long way to go yet.

I want to be able to tie the whole system together to run off of the "Instruments" switch and the main house DC distribution panel so all of the instruments and chartplotter power on when the switch is flipped on. That switch is tied into the panel mounted fuse holder currently running a 5 amp fuse. Very easily checked and troubleshot at that location.

The round trip from the panel to the NMEA backbone is less than 20 ft running on 14 AWG wire which is more than adequate for that length at 12 v and 5 amps or less. The 5 amp fuse would easily protect the wire as it is rated up to 35 amps assuming I'm reading the charts and wire size calculators correctly. Having the fuse "at the battery end" in this case would be at the panel, correct? And thus remove the need for the inline fuse to the NMEA backbone.

Here are some Vulcan 9 chartplotter specifications pulled from the owner's manual:
Operating voltage = 10 - 17 V DC
Current draw at 13.6 V (sonar off, max B/L) = 1 A
Protection = reverse polarity and temporary over-voltage to 36 V

The total max current draw for all of the instruments plus the chartplotter is 1.7 amps.

The chartplotter came with and calls for a 3 amp fuse. Will I still need to use a 3 amp fuse inline to protect the chatplotter given the built-in over-voltage protection? Would the 5 amp fuse at the panel be not be enough protection. Given the total max current draw for the whole system is less than 2 amps couldn't I just use a 3 amp fuse at the panel as an option to protect everything?

I could be all wrong here so please correct me where I've gone astray.

Phase 1 Complete:
DST 800 transducer installed - literally drop in replacement of the old depth sounder. No need to pull the boat out to replace the through hull. Yea!!!
Two T41 instrument displays installed - used 1/4" boat-board to make adapter plates to install over the existing instrument holes in the cockpit bulkhead.
Backbone in place running from the compression post to just behind the engine.
Connected power to the backbone via existing cable connected to the "Instrument" switch at the DC panel.

I was able to get that part up and running without issues for our Memorial day shakedown cruise. Our first overnight trip of the year - 3 nights on the hook :)
Got the depth and speed calibrated easily enough. It worked beautifully for that short 40 nm round trip to Penrose Point State Park.

Phase 2 Underway:
I'm currently in the middle of installing the Vulcan 9 at the helm. I've got the supplied power cable run down to the steering access location in the aft cabin along with a NMEA drop cable to connect to the backbone. Ran out of time yesterday to finish that part but I am close.

Quick question - I hope. The NMEA backbone kit requires a 5 amp fuse and the chartplotter a 3 amp fuse. Can I run both of these off of the 5 amp fused "Instrument" switch located at the DC panel? If yes, then I won't need to use the supplied inline fuses with that setup, correct?

I already have conduit installed inside the mast and left a pull string running though it and up to the strain relief point for the anchor light I installed last year. It might be possible to access that pull string after drilling a new hole to mount the wind instrument. My boat has never had one installed. I have a deck stepped mast and the access holes at the bottom of the compression post will definitely be a challenge. Might be worth unstepping he mast and taking the compression post out to enlarge the wholes at the base and clean out some stuff that dropped inside from above. (I couldn't fish it all out when running the new wires for the Anchor light. If only I had the funds to do this project last year when the mast was already down.

I ordered my system yesterday from defender. Vulcan 9, Navonics Charts for my area, and their "B&G T41 Triton Speed, Depth, Wind and GPS Pack".
Next week the fun will begin!

Thanks Noah

I've seen most of those threads already and they were a small part of my decision to go B&G in the first place. You have a very nice electronics setup along with your beautiful electrical upgrade.

So, I've decided on the Vulcan 9 and also decided against the wireless gWind in favor of the wired B&G wind sensor. I was way out of the ballpark as to how much stepping the mast really was. Someone told me it would be well over $1,000 and it's closer to the $250 mark. I'll just wait a little while before doing that upgrade along with running a new VHF cable and installing a new antenna. I might raise the split backstay while I'm at it too.

Still going back and forth on the Forwardscan option though. My gut says go for it and try it out but I hate making purchases with such limited information and reviews. There's just not a lot of info out here to be found.