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I could not find a replacement part available anywhere, fabrication proved to be prohibitively expensive (>$700!)
Ended up having a friend print it for me on his 3d printer.

Thanks Ken , good idea.
I have a friend inn the plastics business so will ask him about materials and/or fabrication.

Thanks for the reply.
Some type of hard dense plastic

I took my mast down this year to replace and check a few items and at some point one of the top bearings at the top of the foil fell out and was lost.
I have tried Pompanette in Florida (as well as numerous internet searches and checking with some local riggers) and the part is not in stock and they don't know when it will be back (and don't appear very confident that it will be!?)
I realize that this is a very old piece of hardware but it has always worked perfectly for me so I'm now in the position that if I can't find a $30-40 part I may have to spend thousands to replace the whole furler.
I'm hoping too get lucky and find someone who has replaced there furler and is willing to part with this piece.

Thanks in advance

Jeremy

No I havent been getting  water in the bilge while on the hard but I have a custom cover. That wouldn't stop rain from coming down the mast so that rules that out.
I read about someone getting water from cracked scupper drain hoses. I've never checked mine so that is on my list to check.
I wish I was in salt water, that would help too narrow it down.

Also need help on how to build up the front of the keel??

When I bought my boat 5 years ago I noticed a slight trickle of rusty water dripping from an invisible crack about 8 inches back along the port side of the keep joint (wing keel). The previous owner(who was a very straight shooter) said he had never seen a sign of the smile before and we negotiated $1000 off the purchase price.

I tightened these keel bolts, made sure the winter blocking was correct and never saw signs of a leak again. However I have had a consistent wet bilge and suspected I was getting water infiltration form the joint.

This winter I saw some crazing of the outer layer of either fairing or anti fouling (sorry no picture) and decided to investigate.

I found a crack in the fairing/filler running from about 8"back on Starboard side to about 12" back on Port side and ground it out (CS 1). It all looked really good. I then ground back a little further in the area I had noticed the rusty seepage and food a couple of small voids (CS 2). I ground this area a little further and it all looked good and solid again (CS 3). I then poured a bucket of water in the bilge too check for leaks and the outside remained dry.

I am fairly happy with the condition of the joint and planned on doing with either g-flex or flexible thixo https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/336174
However I hadn't anticipated the depth I would need to fill and fair at the front of the keel (CS 4) , probably 1.5"-2" and I'm not sure whether this can be done with several thinner layers off flexible epoxy or whether I need to start with a good coating of the epoxy and then build up with layers of some sort of fairing/filter? This would seem to negate the effect of using a flexible epoxy too account for any flexing or movement in the joint?

Thoughts?

Ok thanks for the reply.
Maybe I could use small pieces of the tape to hold window in place while the 795 dries as well as providing the spacing?

Sorry to resurrect an old post here but I am planning to to reinstall my aft windows/port lights
I read that a combo of the 3H VHB/Dow 795 is not recommended by those who have tried but I was wondering whether a 3H VHB/Butyl tape combo might work any better.? I was thinking the tape would provide the adhesion qualities needed and then if I ran a generous bead of butyl next to it it would provide the water proofing/gap filling qualities?

Thanks Noah, yes they do have it but at $180 (with shipping) I think I might still go with the Defender option with my old lens.

Thanks for the links Stu, I have seen them and will be revisiting them.

Jon W, I got my terminology wrong. It is the self drain I need, so the PO512WS20. However no one seems to stock this and is a special order.
It seems quickest and cheapest option is to order the clear lens version from Defender and swap over my old lens. Even if this proves unsatisfactory (cosmetically) I could buy a new smoked lens separately and still save a few dollars over the special order.

Thanks Stu, just what I needed.
The 2 refers to the width/thickness. They confirmed it is the 2" I need.

Ok one last question.
I called Beckson and it seems it is more cost effective to buy a whole new port than try to replace the body.
I believe it is the "rain drain" design, 2", with smoked (?) lens. (PO512-WS-20)
I can't get up to the boat for another week, so I was wondering if someone  could anyone confirm for me before I order the wrong one?

Thanks in advance

Jeremy.

Ok thanks, it's actually the hinge part that secures the cam to the main frame, so I need the main body.
I now find that part pictured on the Beckson site, no one else seems to list that part so I guess I will call them tomorrow.

Thanks.
The hinge broke, presumably I have to buy a whole new port?

Am I correct in thinking that the correct replacement is the PO512-WC-20?
I have searched the site and read several posts and articles but could find no reference to the model number.

Thanks