Messages

On the MK1 there's a removable piece of floor by the water heater to access the bilge and aft most keel bolt. It also gives access to pull the wires across the bilge.

Rich, I have a MK1 and my compressor module is located in the same spot fwd of the stbd water tank. The power cable runs from there to the hull then along the hull under the lip the removable panel over the tank sits on, then turns by the fridge to run along the bulkhead for the aft vertical saloon seat cushion under the galley drawers and sink, under the floor across the bilge to the bulkhead the macerator mounts to, then along that bulkhead up through the hole the holding tank hose passes through to the main distribution panel.

Jim, what blocks and chair do you use to go up the mast? Thanks.

Forgot to add if you're considering getting a whisker pole, this is a great time to add a t-track onto the mast for one. Easier and safer to deploy and store.

If you're going to pull the mast to replace wiring and coax, consider everything you want to do on the mast and do it all now. Example new standing rigging, remove corrosion and repaint, LED spreader lights, radar, wind transducer, windex, LED tri-color with anchor light, new VHF antennae, add a second conduit run and check that the original conduit run is still properly fastened to the inside of the mast. Due to age the conduit sometimes comes loose and you'll get a banging inside the mast at anchor.

I installed a Vetus brand strainer mounted slightly above the water line. The top can be opened with the sea cock open and no water spills out. It's a straight line to outside the boat if you need to clear the sea cock.

Hi Justin, - FWIW - a while back I couldn't get my M25XP to start. It turned over fine, and ran fine the day before. Turns out when the engine shutdown cable passed by the rudder tube it developed a tight radius bend in it for some reason. It wouldn't shift the engine lever all the way to the run position even though the handle was all the way down in the cockpit. I increased the bend radius and it was able to return the lever fully to the start position, and the engine started.

Look for a sea cock in the locker under the head sink connected to the toilet supply hose. Open the sea cock and that will allow water to flow to the toilet.

The anchor light is on the top of the mast.

I did an extensive rewire of my boat in 2016. I put a write up with photos in the Tech WIKI. There's others write up's there too. I pulled the mast to add a second conduit run, plus LED spreader and tricolor lights, new steaming light, electronics and radar. Depends on what you're doing and ease/safety while doing it.

When I rewired my MK1 8 years ago, I installed the reserve battery just forward of the starboard water tank where you're talking about and used 1 AWG marine cable. My M25XP starts no problem on reserve or the house bank. After much discussion on this forum, I sized the start and charge cables to the max alternator output of 105A, but have an MRBF of 250A on the reserve and house bank for the inrush current of the starter. My alternator has never come close to putting out 105A. I have a write-up of my electrical upgrade in the Tech Wiki.

Thanks Robb, replacing it while you're in there makes sense.

Ken, thanks for the link. In gear at idle I hear a rattle. The rattle goes away when I increase rpm slightly. Maybe the springs?

robbjd I'm trying to learn from you guys experience. Why are you looking to replace your damper plate, and what's the benefit of the H&D high deflection damper plate vs the OEM? Thanks for the help.

A little off topic, but how do you know when you need a new damper plate? Thanks for the help.

FYI San Diego area boaters - if you have any expired marine flares, there's a collection event on Saturday Oct 26, 2024 8am to 12pm at the Shelter Island Boat Ramp parking lot (2210 Shelter Island Dr. San Diego 92106). This is supposed to be a free event, just show up and hand over your expired boat flares. No commercial flares are accepted. The flyer my marina sent out says participants receive one free electronic signal flare per vehicle while supplies last.

Paul, what PN damper plate did you install? Did you find the torque values? What are they? What is your review of the new damper plate? Thanks for the help.