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Yat is what some locally are affectionately called.  It is derived from the familiar greeting, i.e.  Where you at, which essentially means hello. Often when I pull into a local dock or marina someone will understand the name and yell, "hey yat, you from da parish?", which is many yats originated.

The pdf is clear and well done.  The install process is simpler than I expected, especially with the angle drill you used. 

Assuming you have an Evolution wheel pilot, and after you use it a few times, please reply with what and how much improvement you find with autopilot tracking.  Does it greatly improve tracking in moderate seas while running downwind and on a broad reach? 

Jim: 

Thanks for the reply.  I paid an a/c tech $800 to find a leak.  It is behind the aft berth and very difficult to access.  The labor to repair is about the same as would be required to replace the 20 year old system.  I may ultimately decide to repair but I am looking into replacement options, methods and cost.  I am getting quotes to replace the existing system with a similar 16k btu split-system, and alternatively with two 7k btu self-contained systems.

With all the knowledge of those on this forum, and considering all the info it has on C34 system upgrades, I am surprised there is little to nothing on a/c replacement.  I am sure it's been done many times.  Our boats are getting older and a/c and heat is a requirement where we sail.

I have been adding R-22 ~ annually to the a/c for the last couple years.  The a/c is a Taylor Made/Cruiseair Model FX-16P, a 16k btu split system (compressor and 2 condensers) which is likely original to my 2001 C34.  Last year I paid a marine air conditioning guy $800 to charge and troubleshoot the problem.  He believes there is a slow leak near the condenser in the rear berth, which is a real problem to access.  His assessment is it will take 10-15 hrs to repair, about the same hrs as replacement.   

My questions are:
* Has anyone successfully repaired a freon leak on a Cruiseair 16k split-system?
* Has anyone replaced their entire Cruiseair 16k split-system?
* If so when, what brand and model # did you go with? 
* Did you do the install yourself or pay a marine a/c guy?
* Did you go with another split-system or a self-contained system(s)?  My a/c tech likes the idea of 2 self-contained 7k btu systems since it would be difficult to run 4"-6" duct fore and aft from a unit in the cockpit locker. 


I can find nothing about replacing the a/c on a MKII after searching the Message Board and Tech Wiki. 

Ken

When I say unprotected I now understand this to mean no insulation on the yellow wire (worn, burnt, wire broken and sitting against a ground). 

I can't explain why it's working now and don't think it's the new terminal connection.  I suspect it's somewhere along the first ~10" of the sender wire which was likely previously grounded but no longer is because it has been shortened and moved.  I can't prove it because the exact reason/spot of the grounding has not been isolated.

I don't think the sender terminal was grounded to the engine compartment insulation when I did the testing.  Seawater items lately have been ~ 74°.

Ken, I think I understand what you're saying in that I may have fixed the problem but it may recur because I didn't get to the source of the problem.

I believe the problem is in the first 6-8" of the yellow sender wire since it is unprotected there and repositioning it after cutting an inch or so seemed to fix the problem.  Wherever was grounding the circuit was likely moved enough to eliminate the short.  For now I will put a boot around the connector and split loom on the exposed wire as far as I can. I will also keep a handy dandy laser thermometer on board, so if the temp gauge shows overheating, I can check engine temp at the engine block.

Today I solved the riddle of the faulty circuit. The temp gauge is now functioning properly.  I planned to run a portion of a new wire from the sender to the temp gauge and started by opening up the harness in the aft berth, separating the yellow (temp gauge) wire from the others and then cutting it.  I used a jumper wire with alligator clips to determine the problem was from that point forward to the sender, and that everything from that point aft to the temp gauge was ok.  Before beginning the process of routing a new wire around and under the engine, I cut additional wire from the sender terminal and replaced the heat shrink ring connector again. Viola, that did the trick and the temp gauge is now behaving normally. Evidently the unprotected wire had been bent and compromised too many times so cutting it back further did the trick.  I've ordered a Blue Sea #4008 boot from WM and will install it for added protection when it arrives. 

Thanks Ken and Ron for your responses and assistance.

Today I ran a wire with alligator clips on the ends from the sender (@ thermostat) to the S terminal on the temp gauge.  The gauge worked perfectly and did not show overheating or deviate with changes in engine rpm or extended runtime.  This confirms it is the yellow circuit/wiring from the sender to the gauge.  Now I need to find where the wire is cut, pinched, corroded, or otherwise bad connection.

The most likely problem seemed to be a bad looking ring connector at the sender.  After reconnecting the original wiring I changed the ring connector but the temp gauge problems continued. The most likely problem areas now seem to be end terminals, wire joints/connections, plug connectors, or tight turns.

So how should I go about finding the fault in the wiring?

Does anyone know wire routing once it goes down in front of the engine and behind the alternator?     

Where in the aft cabin does the harness run?

Is the a plug or other type wire connection between the engine and where it enters the SS pedestal tube?

Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

Ron: There was and is no protective rubber boot at the sender.  What does this look like and where do I get one?

I like the idea of running  a long wire directly from the sender to the gauge and bypassing everything else. I'll give it a try in the next day or two and let you know what I find. Thanks for the suggestion.

Today I did Ken's suggested tests.

From the sender @ the thermostat cover I disconnected the S wire, turned the key on, and the temp gauge pin was high, not low as expected. Then I grounded the S wire and the temp gauge continue to pin high. I assume this does not confirm the sender is OK, but confirms there is a problem from the sender wire at the thermostat through to the temp gauge.

Next I opened the instrument panel, disconnected the S wire from the back of the temp gauge, turned the key on and the gauge pinned low as expected. Then I put a jumper on the back of the temp gauge from the S terminal to the ground terminal and the gauge pinned high as expected. I assume this confirms the temp gauge is working correctly.

It appears the problem is likely not the sender or the temp gauge, but most likely the wiring from the sender to the temp gauge. Is this correct?  Where to next?

Ken:
I tried posting a pic of the thermostat wire connection from iPhone but it errored out saying file too large.  How do I post a pic from iPhone photos?

I am posting on this topic because yesterday after motoring for about 90 minutes my temp gauge showed sudden overheating (240).  Curiously the overheat alarm did not ever sound. I did not check water flow from exhaust, but then cleaned the sea strainer and changed the impeller. Water flow from exhaust thereafter was normal, but temp gauge continue to show overheating so I got a tow back to the marina.

Today I confirmed all connections good on the back of the temp gauge and on the sending unit.  I then found a wire disconnected from the thermostat cover. I don't know what this wire is for but thought I had solved  the problem. No such luck.  After starting the engine and running for 15 to 20 minutes the gauge again rose to 240°. I checked the external engine temperature with an infrared thermometer, as suggested in an earlier post, at a thermostat cover & on the engine block & near the radiator cap with an infrared thermometer and got readings up between 150-160, so something is screwy with the temp gauge.

Ken
No I did not use screws. The butyl tape held the window after being pushed in place.  BTW, I purchased replacement fixed windows from Catalina Yachts in Florida who did a good job.

Last spring, the most respected boat windshield guy around was too busy to change mine so he gave me a lesson and instructions. He has been doing boat windshields over 40 years and he uses butyl tape.  Below are his instructions which worked great for me.

- Remove existing windows and all related caulk and residue.  From the exterior, pull/push razor knife blade away from you repeatedly as you extend the blade to cut deeper and deeper until a 2nd person on the interior is able push a corner of the fixed port away from the frame.  Thereafter, cut the remainder of the caulk to remove the port as the person on the interior pushes out.  Remove all remaining caulk residue with razor knife blade and finally wipe clean with ?.
- Tape inside of window frame
- Tape outside frame and of window to nearly up to (1/16") old gasket area
- Tape exterior edge of window leaving an even gap in around
- Apply continuous loop of butyl tape around window frame opening leaving approximately 3/8 inch inner edge for adhesive (Do not remove outside paper from butyl tape yet)
- Add second layer of butyl tape only if additional offset needed
- Temporarily tape window in place and visually look inside to check alignment
- Add registration marks from tape to window paper top, bottom and sides
- Remove tape from butyl and apply caulk (Boaters life Life seal 50/50 (silicone & polyurethane) black caulk) to window frame above and below buytyl). Keep caulk 3/16" from butyl And bead should be 3/8" wide and 3/8" high. For bigger areas add caulk bead(s) so gaps will fill when compressed
- Insert window and Align registration marks
- Add 2-3 tape pieces (hangers) to hold alignment
- Push window in place (left right top and bottom)
- If outside edge not filled add caulk 6 inches at a time with caulk gun hook nozzle (smooth with soapy water and mineral spirits spray).  If caulk is not drying rapidly OK to do entire exterior bead. Leave slope so water does not accumulate
- Use small plastic squeegee to clean up caulk inside then out rapidly
- Remove interior tape and window paper
- Remove exterior tape then window paper
- You are done

Stu, Ron & Jim:  Your comments and the Westerbeke.com service bulletins tell me I have things to do, namely adjust idle up a bit to dampen vibration, tighten/torque motor mount nuts, insure there is a cam shaft drive tang reinforcing sleeve, and check the fuel filter bracket to see if it has a radius or knife bend.  Can't seem to find anything about a factory recall for front engine mounting brackets.  I also need to carefully go through the Critical Updates again to see if something else sticks out since I now know a lot more than when I last looked at it 5 years ago.

I'm now thinking most of my vibration is due to too low idle setting as a result of poorly calibrated tachometer (~200 rpm too low until 2 days ago). Engine runs very smooth above 900 rpm.

I can't overstate how helpful you guys and C34IA are as a resource for keeping things working great.