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The factory window (at least on MKI) had a bevel on the edge, to allow for more sealant "sticking area". Something to be considered if you are cutting your own acrylic. Also, the OEM windows were/are acrylic not polycarbonate.

Explain further "putting silicone on all terminals." What silicone? Silicone Dielectric grease such as Superlube, is good. Don't use silicone sealant! T9 Boeshield sprayed on top of clean, tight connections is another good solution. To stave-off corrosion.

 Yes. The foam spacers stay in place and sealant applied around and on top of them. Their purpose is allow a deeper/thicker sealant bond between the fiberglas and gelcoat so all of the sealant doesn't get squeezed-out when pressing the window against the gelcoat.
The Catalina factory window replacement drawing/instructions can be found on our website (but I can't locate an easy path to them). A .pdf file of them is in the follow thread in Reply 11.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=5579.0

A couple more. Removing old sealant and inside masking. Kind of a messy process.

Here are some pics when I did my Mark I in 2019. Used small pieces of foam 1/8 x 1/2 in. high density foam tape as spacers and Dow 795 sealant. My windows had/has screws.

Just make sure that you use proper gauge wire and fuse for that distance run.

Just be aware that MMSI numbers gotten though those three websites are only good in US waters. For sailing outside of US you need to get it from the FCC, through their website.

FCC
https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/maritime-mobile/ship-radio-stations/maritime-mobile

As you are replacing your standing rigging, you might want to consider raising your split backstay (if a PO hasn't done it already). Instead of one turnbuckle high at the meeting point you can use two turnbuckles (one above at each chainplate) and raise the split connection up higher, since you will no longer need a reachable turnbuckle in the middle anymore.

If in addition to your Raymarine wind instrument, you have or plan to add a Davis mechanical Windex (which I recommend) also add an LED light to illuminate it. They make small lights just for this.  It will involve running another wire to the top of the mast. If you have room in your conduit, it is a nice add-on. Connect it to your navigation lights circuit (the red/green/stern) switch.

Also, change your masthead sheaves (at least your main and spinn. ones) to ballbearing ones.

I have to disagree with Ron on this. Much more chance to have the "holes" in the outside-mounted bronze clamshell foul with debris, binnacles, seaweed, etc. your boat your choice, but I wouldn't do it. Mainesail agrees it is not a good idea.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/why-i-dislike-like-external-strainers.124964/

Ron, what do you mean;  "assumed you have a MK 1 C34 and NOT a 1986 production boat!!"  Is there a difference? Please explain.

In an indirect answer to your question: the aft water tank sits on a molded fiberglas/gelcoated shelf, so no you can't get to the bottom of the tank. I believe those kinds of tank sensors need to go on the side of the tanks, not underneath. I have copper metal tape-style sensors on all my tanks (mounted to the sides. The only slightly difficult one was the holding tank, where I had to install a beckson port/inspection plate on the forward small bulkhead in front of tank in order to reach the tank's forward face to and install the sensor.

FYI—the MKI is plumbed somewhat differently than the MKII.

You should have three thru-hulls under the head sink
1. Engine cooling intake
2. Shower sump discharge
3. Toilet raw water intake