Messages

Ron- either you or I am confused. A Spinnlock bulls eye is a fairlead. I do not believe he is looking for a fairlead. I believe he is looking for a small cleat with one horn, (aka;Kayak J hook).

Ron I believe you are confusing the part he asked for. What he is looking for is the little black one-armed cleat/tie down, not part of traveller.  Kayak J hooks.

If you are worried about hitting the conduit in the front, how about cleats or pad eyes attached on either side(s) of the mast?

For a bit of a cushion, I use an estimate of 3/4 gallons per hour for my M25XP engine.

I hope you put a backing plate under it.

Yes on nut splitter. Although you can do this entire job solo, including reaching through the port hole to tighten bolts, it is much easier to do with a helper. Using the nut splitter solo can be hard to jigger and is quite a shock when nuts split and tool goes flying!

I agree with Waughoo: even if you solved the strength engineering issue for end-boom traveller or blocks on top of a hard dodger, I would be worried boom height. You would have to raise the boom, which would mean reworking gooseneck and end-up with less sail area or a very odd boom angle and sail shape, or have a hard dodger with no standing room under it.

I did drill oversized holes and fill holes with epoxy, then re-drilled holes to fit new bolts. This is "drill/fill/re-drill" is my standard process for all items bolted through the deck of my boat.

I have and those measurements worked fine. BTW-Rebedding the chainplates was one of the most frusting/fiddely "simple"projects I have done on my boat, and I have done a lot of projects over the years. Starting with having to break 4 acorn nuts, having to buying large short handle wrenches and sockets, to dropping one of the tension rod nuts into the void space. Also, sourcing new round head slotted bolts to replace old ones was a PIA. I finally did prevail and successfully completed the job. I recommend using butyl tape. Have fun!

Based upon your hull number, your traveller should already be factory thru-bolted where required, I believe.

Logo- why do you want/need to know all of that temperature data when not onboard? Also, is your Starlink transmitting 24/7 when you are not onboard?

No sump box on my 1990 boat either. Just a very hard to teach hose barb to pump hose.

Why would your engine be running if you were not there?

Why do you want to use them there instead of blocks?

Genoa track? Or perhaps the stanchion base with water finding the lowest, easiest, gravity-assisted path. I would flood with water at deck level and wait. Then go higher up. Leaks are annoying to find/trace.