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As I wasn't able to get a response from elipse, I thought I would post my outcome in case it is of any benefit to other members.
I too ended up removing the injector pump and found the rack would not move completely freely, sometimes jamming quite severely when moved back or forth. I also removed the cover plate , cleaned the rack with a cloth of all oil and possible dirt then re-oiled with engine oil and put the cover plate back on. The rack now moved completely freely with no jamming whatsoever. I reinstalled everything self bled  the fuel using the lift pump and the motor virtually started immediately.  . Everything is now operating as normal.
The rack did not appear to be dirty and I could see no evidence of anything on the cleaning cloth, but the fresh lubrication certainly made a huge difference. It appears to me that my problems were caused by the rack being jammed in the "stop" position (hence no fuel past the injector pump) and not returning to the start position when the cut-off lever was pushed down to start.
Incidentally the Oberdorfer pump that I used to replace the original Sherwood is working beautifully thanks to a member from this forum Ken Kloeber who supplied the pump and provided invaluable help and assistance -would definately recommend him to other members.

I have experienced exactly the same problems with my boat (year 2000, M35B) after replacing my seawater pump with a Oberdorfer.
Can you advise what the outcome was with your injector pump.
Ken

The following apps I use (they are for Apple devices but should be available for android)
Adobe Acrobat - all your manuals and user guides can usually be obtained in PDF format and saved on this.
Isailor - great navigation app on par with navionics
Boat sentry - anchoring app
Anchor watch- anchoring app
MotionX-GPS - great app mainly for plotting tracks particularly walking, bike riding etc.
As Paul mentioned Navionics is very good backup for your chart plotter.

What is absolutely essential - bookmark this site - has the answer to everything 😀😀😀😀😀

Now to check out some of Paul's suggestions..........

Ken

This is a link I found that helped me track down the importance of the fuel lift pump on initial starting after changing filters.
catalina350.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=657&start=0
Hope it helps
Ken

I had exactly the same problem with starting after changing both fuel filters on mine. After trying various starting procedures I finally found that the fuel pump was u/s which can be found as you describe by listening to the pump ticking when you turn the key to the glow plug position. Although the fuel tank in our boats are higher than the engine (which means once motor has been operating it doesn't matter if the fuel pump is not working) I found that there was not enough pressure to get the fuel to start flowing past the injector pump. Once the new fuel pump was installed and operating the motor started and I have not had a problem since. I do not believe my fuel pump had been operating for the twelve months prior to this as I had never heard the pump and thought this was normal.

Ken

Peter
Thanks, I will give them a try particularly as I'm not having much luck with polyflex couplings.

Thanks for the replies
Ron
I should of realised the mounts suggested were for the M25 motors 😚 . Looking at the Vetus K100 species the mounting holes are shown as 100mm apart and not 127mm as on my mounts. I am currently looking at Polyflex mounts (Australian made) to see if I can get some for a direct fit otherwise I will have to look at filling and re- drilling holes for the Vetus mounts which does not look an easy job.

Peter
I checked on the OEM universal parts however the cost from US suppliers was to the order of $US200 which would equate to about $A230 EACH not including postage. I haven't been able to find an Australian supplier however and wonder if you can recall who you purchased yours thru. The Vetus brackets were cheaper here than what I could get from US , about $A71

From the huge amount of information gleaned from this forum it appears that the most recommended motor mount for the above motor is the Vetus K50 for front mounts and K75 for rear ( or all), however the original motor mounts have a spacing of 127mm for fixing to stringer whilst the above motor mounts in there specs have only 100mm spacing. Also Ron (in his excellent wiki ) suggested filing out the bracket hole to allow for adjustments where necessary however the current brackets show limited material to do this. Is there an alternative mount that has been used successfully or is it necessary to re drill for the holding down bolts? Any advice much appreciated.

Ken

I have ( and installed myself) the Raymarine e7d chart plotter and know nothing about the Garmin 741sx to advise which is the best way to go. However I will outline the process I went through which may be an alternative way to go.
When I purchased my boat the only instruments on it were depth, wind and speed logs ie no chart plotter or auto pilot. My first step for navigation was to get the app Navionics which I found was excellent to use and with the ipad gave a brilliant display and made route planning extremely simple. I mounted it to the Edson bar work using clips mounted on a board - worked brilliantly. After a few months and sailing on my own a lot I realised that an auto pilot was the next item to add and decided on the Raymarine P70R which I installed myself and coupled up to the ST60 wind, depth speed logs. I then decided a chart plotter was required and chose the Raymarine e7d due to comparability with autopilot and the fact that  Navionics could sync my routes directly to the chart plotter not to mention the cost was favourable. I also mounted this the same as the ipad which is great for security and enables me to use it on my (dare I say - power boat
In summary:-
The Navionics app i find is almost all that I really need and still find it easier to use and has a much larger screen then the chart plotter. It was perfect for preparing routes at home and then transferring them wirelessly when on the yacht to the e7d. In saying this Navionics has updated the app that now prevents this but is working on a future update to reinstate this feature.
The original e7d's had a problem with the touch screen and had a factory recall - everything is working ok now and with the software updates is vastly improved compared to when I first got it.
Installation was not very straight forward - I found it hard to believe in this day and age that it wasn't a simple plug and play - unfortunately (or fortunately depending on what your other instruments are) Raymarine has allowed for the course computer to be connected to just about any source thrown at it - which means that everything is hard wired into it not just a simple plug. Raymarine have an excellent technical site which answers all your queries making self installation not too difficult.
Raymarine also provide apps which allow the chart plotter to be viewed and operated on the ipad and iPhone from anywhere on the boat.
Overall I am very happy with the e7d with the addition of having backup navigation with the ipad and iPhone and if I can find them those paper charts 

Ken

I was interested to see in your reply that every mark2 has a lean to port as I hadn't come across this before. I originally started this project to check the height of the mast above water level the measured value being 14.62m fairly different to the value given in the specs of 15.11m. There is a 2004 Catalina 34 next door to me which is a wing keel and it's mast height above water was 14.60m and vertical to within 10mm.
Basically my aim is to set the mast vertical to the water, although this is probably contrary to standard practise I have worked out that the deck at the mast may be slightly out of level possibly from manufacture (or the boat is heeled even though everything is in its normal position). As I look at it the mast after adjustment will be presenting the sail the same on either tack rather than the way it is now.
I don't think I will see any improvement in performance but aesthetically (to me) it should be a vast improvement. When (and if) I can loosen the turnbuckles  i will certainly check out the grease you have suggested.

Ron, thanks for the advice on replacing the standing rigging after fifteen years. I have applied a moderate amount of heat to the turnbuckles without any luck so have adjusted everything back to as it was and will keep applying Inox for a period to see if it improves movement. If I have any luck I will adjust the mast to vertical. Regardless I will replace all standing rigging as suggested and change the turnbuckles to stainless at the end of the year.
I think it would be a good recommendation for anyone with these type of turnbuckles to ensure they are lubricated annually to keep them serviceable.

Thanks for the replies
John, they are probably bronze as I must admit that I wouldn't know the difference   . I will try to obtain that PB Blaster you mentioned as the Inox appears to not being as effective as hoped.Today I spoke to another Catalina owner who had the same problem and ended up continually applying a penetrating lubricant for a month to get them to move. I have some lanolin to use after.

2ndwish, unfortunately as a retired surveyor I am obsessive about things being vertical etc and as my boat is penned opposite to where the parking area at the yacht club is I can see the lean every time I drive in. On an absolutely still day I was able to measure electronically exactly the lean of the mast and position of deck connection for shrouds and from this determine the amount to adjust the shrouds which worked out to 20mm each side. This adjustment worked but due to not being able to adjust the inner stays the result was a sideways bend in the mast. I need to spend more time on the water and forget about levels and verticals.

I am in the process of making my mast vertical, having a lean to port of 220mm. The upper stays have stainless steel turnbuckles on them and are easily adjusted however all the lower stays have brass turnbuckles which are turning at the most one turn - not anywhere enough and I am worried that too much pressure would cause failure of the fitting. I have used a penetrating oil without much joy.
The brass turnbuckles have a small amount of surface corrosion which I have cleared off as well as on the stainless threads and wonder if my problem is either internal corrosion or perhaps some form of lock tite has been used in the past. Would it be advisable to heat the brass turnbuckle or is there another method?.
I see from a previous recent thread that the turnbuckles were replaced after being removed.


Thanks
Ken

claygr is correct the system is self bleeding. Turn the key and you should hear the fuel pump ticking over ( it is located at rear of motor just above heat exchanger). Leave on for a while then try starting in usual process (use glow plugs).
It is essential that pump is operating to get rid of air locks. I have previously had problems with air locks after changing fuel filter which  was because fuel pump was not working and no amount of manual pumping would clear it. If you have run out of fuel or changed the filter(s) it would be beneficial to remove as much air as possible before the above by filling the filter housings with clean diesel and doing a manual bleed using the bleed screw near the injector pump.The manual pump is situated in the primary filter.

Ken