Messages

Success!!

Thanks all for the help.  To be honest, I am not sure where the original blockage was, but I had everything apart from the fuel intake tube to the secondary filter.  The final success key was Ken's suggestion to follow the line from the secondary filter.  The bleed knob on the injection pump was hidden below two hoses and that is why I didn't originally see it.  Once I opened that and turned on the fuel pump, normal clicking returned and I heard air purge out.  Took a few times to get her started, but she ran better than ever.

Now I just have to insure I have the coolant purged of air.

Thanks again to everyone for the help - it is greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks all for the help.  I am making progress.  With the electric pump engaged, I am now getting fuel flow to the secondary filter.  I know I have to bleed the air at this point, but not 100% clear on the best way to do that. 
I see mention of the bleed valve on the secondary filter.  The filter location makes it hard to see so not exactly sure where that is.  I also see mention about a knurled knob - is this the same thing?
If anyone has photos of where best to bleed, that would be incredibly helpful.

Greg

And the mystery continues ...
Removed the fuel pickup tube and it is clear (no filter).

When I tried to pump fuel from a bottle directly into the pump inlet, no good.  But if I remove the outlet hose from the pump, it pumped fine.

Going to verify tomorrow that none of the hoses are clogged.  After that, I am out of ideas (time to call an expert!!)

Thanks all for the helpful suggestions.  I was 99% sure it was going to be the ball valve in the filter housing - but no luck.  Clean as a whistle.

I believe I have narrowed it down to the pickup tube in the tank.  I have read as much as I can about how to pull this, but concerned that I read some things about the tube falling off into the tank.  Before I take this out, any tips or suggestions?

Greg

Hi all,
I posted yesterday about needing a new fuel pump - unfortunately that was not the problem.  The new pump had the same issues. 
My fuel line goes from the tank to the primary filter to the pump to the engine.  I disconnected the outflow from the pump and turned it on - nothing.  So the pump isn't getting fuel.  The strange thing is that the primary filter seems to get getting fuel.  I had emptied the bowl and when I turned on the pump, I could see it fill. I had just put a new line from the filter to the pump, so that can't be the issue.  The filter is brand new as well.

My only thought is that there is an obstruction in the fuel tank that allows some fuel through, but not enough for the pump.  Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Greg

Thank all for the help.  I was able to find the Facet pump at Princess Auto - unfortunately that was not my issue.  Will be posting in a new thread to get other ideas.

Thanks, would you happen to have the NAPA part number?

Looks like a need a new electric fuel pump for my Universal 25xp.  Not as easy to find as I thought in Canada.  The wiki has a nice list of possible alternatives.  I have been able to find a Facet cube pump at a local Princess Auto but it is model 40100.  The wiki recommends 40106 which has a 4-7 psi max and 32 gph.  The 40100 is a 33 GPH at 4-7 psi.  Would this work?

Any other Canadians have other suggestions?

Thanks,

Greg

I was one of the people having very similar issues to you.  One thing I noticed is that on the times that I pressed the starter button and nothing happened, there were no changes to the gauges.  Normally when it starts, the gauges all move to the left while holding the start button.  This acted more like I wasn't even pressing the button.

I replaced the starter button ($30 fix) and have not had the issue again - although I admit that I am not 100% sure it is cured.

I think I may have found the source of my leak.  It is very slow so it takes a few days after a rain to start to puddle in the head floor.

I followed it back today and discovered that it is coming in from the stanchion above the nav table.  There is a ledge along the hull that the water followed back to the wall between the head and the main cabin.  It worked its way down along the bottom two points you have marked in the photo above.

Rebedded the stanchion with butyl tape and hopefully the problem will be solved.  Guess I will find out the next time it rains :)

Thanks all for the help.  I installed a new sender today and all seems to be good.  As Ron said, there is an inspection port above the tank in the port lazerette that makes it much easier to get the old sender out and the new one in.  The only real challenge was getting the screw holes lined up as they are not symmetrical.  Took a couple of tries but think I am fine now.

Greg

Thanks all.  I have taken the port aft panel off and have access to the sender.  I am having problems with step 2 of the trouble shooting procedure.  It says to connect the pink (which in my case is purple) wire to a known ground.  I am not sure where a nearby known ground is. Any suggestions?

I did try the next step (connect pink to ground on sender unit) and it tested ok.  Does the fact that it passes step 3 mean that it would pass step 2?  If so, then it is a bad sender.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi all,
I noticed today that my fuel gauge is stuck fully to the left (empty).  The tank is nearly full and it was working fine 2 days ago.  It almost seems that the needle moves a little further left when I turn on the ignition.

I am working through the document I found on here (Fuel Gauge Test Procedure).  I shorted the S and G terminals on the engine panel and the needle moved fully to the right.  I am hoping someone on here might have a suggestion that does not require me to remove the aft cabin walls to get to the fuel tank (although I am almost positive I will have to do that.)

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

PS  I should have added that all other gauges are working fine.

Thanks all.
I was able to get down to the boat for a short visit today and tried the engine.  It started off no problem.  After letting it run for awhile, I turned it off and waited a few minutes.  The first time I engaged the start button - nothing.  But I noticed that none of the gauges moved when I pressed the start button.  I immediately tried again and it turned over.

The fact that the gauges did not change when I first engaged it seems to indicate to me that the button was not engaging.  Does this make sense or is it just me hoping for an easy fix?

Thanks Ron.  I replaced this last year :)