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Messages - Paul Blumenfeld

#1
Catalina 34s for Sale / Catalina 87 for sale
September 20, 2019, 11:54:32 AM
 :cry4`
Due to my husbands recent and abrupt passing, I will need to sell his beloved Catalina 1987. Currently docked in Channel Islands Harbor, CA. I will sell this without a boat broker to save some money, and pass that savings on to you. He has maintained the boat well, and kept a log. Lots of extra equipment, tools, parts, etc included. I will be in CA in a few weeks and can post photos at that time. I do have a broker who will do the legal paperwork to make the sale smooth and complete. Asking $25,000.
Suzanne
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Mainsail Cover Pricing
June 17, 2015, 06:40:00 AM
Thanks for all the suggestions.  I'll see if the admiral will help sew!
#3
Main Message Board / New Prop - Michigan Sailor
June 16, 2015, 10:35:16 PM
I've searched for prop information to replace the old one on my 1987 C34.   The current prop is a 3 blade prop but not sure if it's the Michigan Sailor. Is there a way to identify? 

The local prop shop says they can only get an Michigan Wheel MP 3 which looks like it would have more drag.  Looking on the Michigan Wheel website they show a 'Sailor 3' which is a 3 blade prop and a 'Sailor 3-Blade'.   These are different props?  Which one should I get?   

Also confirming that it should be 15 x 10.  Both the prop shop and Catalina are telling me 15 x 9. 

https://www.miwheel.com/propellers/brands/michigan-propellers/

Thanks!
#4
Main Message Board / Mainsail Cover Pricing
June 09, 2015, 07:26:02 PM
Has anyone purchased a mainsail cover from catalinaowners.com?   Their online price is $397 including shipping.  Include cutouts for dutchman, better thread, and shipping. A local canvas maker wants $750.  Catalina Owners quality not good or my local guy just expensive?
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Solar Panel Wiring Route
August 27, 2012, 08:13:28 AM
Quote from: Ron Hill on August 25, 2012, 05:24:54 PM
Paul : Orient your solar panel so the wiring comes off the port side.  Then route the solar wire down the dodger frame (wire ties inside) to side decking above the head, thru that deck (with an antenna coax fitting screwed into that deck) and then lead the wire thru to where the solar controller mounted and it enteries the DC system.

A thought



Ron,

Sorry I'm not quite understanding where you are suggesting. Go through the side next to the head window?  I already do have the wire going down the port side of the dodger frame.  Just thinking twice or twenty times on where to drill a hole. 

Right now I just have it temporarilly running/hanging through the companionway and attached to the cabin top and around to the electrical panel.  Not pretty and does get in the way. 


Paul
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Solar Panel Wiring Route
August 27, 2012, 07:23:21 AM
Quote from: patrice on August 27, 2012, 05:30:23 AM
Hi,
QUick question, having the panels mounted on the dodger, you won't have trouble with the boom and sail making shade on the panel ?

It hasn't been an issue yet but the clearance is only a few inches.  My dodger may be lower than most.  Shading is not much of an issue at anchor or at the dock as I move the boom all the way to one side.  With two 65w panels I have plenty of power.
#7
Main Message Board / Solar Panel Wiring Route
August 25, 2012, 03:21:28 PM
I've mounted two solar panels on top of the dodger.  I need to get the wiring inside the boat.  I'm thinking of going through the deck near the port winch under the dodger.  Wiring will come through into the head about 2" from the bulkhead between the head and nav station.  It can then run wire in the seam to the side of the boat where it no longer would be visible.

Thought I'd get other suggestions before I drill the hole.

Thanks,

Paul
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Sticky Throttle
July 25, 2011, 10:29:22 PM
Both of my engine controls were getting difficult to move.  It only reached a top priority when the throttle stuck as I was backing out of my slip.  Was unable to shift out of reverse as I headed to the boats and slips behind me. I was able to turn and turn off engine to slow down.  I now have new control cables.  Not too expensive but the installation was a pain with 4 corroded and seized bolts. The difference in how smooth the controls are now is just amazing.  If they have never been replace in may be time.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: GORE GFO Packing Material
February 22, 2011, 08:55:29 PM
In my 1987 I used the 3/16" Gore GFO.  Has been working great for three years.

How often do other Gore users adjust or replace?

#10
Stu,

I'm not complaining at all.  Just agreeing that a critical update section would be beneficial for those of us who have recently purchased the boat and just don't have the time to read ALL the available information.

The information on the site is great those most responsible for maintaining it are greatly appreciated!  There is a wealth of information and I've learned a lot from this web site and organization!
 

My comment was only to agree with the need, or convenience, of having a critical updates section. I'm not expecting someone else to be responsible for maintaining my boat.  Having a critical updates section would just greatly assist me in doing that. The section should be very brief saying DO THIS OR ELSE....  It doesn't need to rehash the details but can just list the known issues and where to find additional detailed information that already exists. 

When deciding on the traveler upgrade I did do several searches on the web site. The message threads I reviewed didn't mention the thu bolt issue, just that it was a great use of boat $$$.

   
#11
I find this conversation quite interesting since I just replace my traveler with the new Garhauer just about three years ago.  This is the first I'm hearing about it. At the time I didn't come across any posts about needed to drill holes and thru bolt. Guido at Garhauer even told me to check carfully on the measurments for where the screw holes needed to be drilled in the new traveler.  I now have a new project. Having a critical update section would be great. Or a method that new posts about a traveler would automatically link to the critical update.
#12
Thanks Ron.  I'll have to measure this weekend and get it installed soon.  Lifting the anchor with the manual is a pain when I'm out by myself. 

I like the price on the V700 since it's about half the price of the V1. But the Lewmar documentation says it only goes to 1/2" line.  Do you know if it would work with 5/8" line?  I just replaced my old 1/2" line last summer with 5/8" since it works in the manual Anchorman I currently have.  That extra 1/8" lets me sleep better at the islands.
#13
This is great!  Is it a straight shot from the bow roller to the windlass?  I currently have a manual windlass mounted behind the anchor doors. I haven't measured but it seems like the rode would not be parallel from the roller to the windlass and would have to angle down considerably where you installed the lexan. Do you have a picture with the anchor chain taut?

   
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Standing Rigging
November 14, 2007, 08:03:43 PM
Cliff,

I did my 1987 boat two years ago.  Since I'm close I just drove my old rigging to Catalina. The next week I picked up new wire with swage fittings for $580.  This year I did the lifelines.

Paul
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Continued C34 Prodcution?
September 20, 2007, 08:42:46 PM
I've seen the 34 both at the Long Beach boat show and the Channel Islands boat show for the last several years.  Maybe they are easy to show in Southern California since they are built here.  The Long Beach show started today and there is suppose to be a 34 in the water.

2007 CATALINA YACHT ANCHORAGE CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Thursday September 20th – Sunday September 23rd
Long Beach Boat Show
on display:

Catalina 309, 320, 34, 387, 42, 440, 470 
C-Dory 25 Cruiser, 22 Cruiser, 22 Angler, 22 Center Cockpit, 19 Angler
Tom Cat 255
Ranger Tug 21 ec and Ranger Tug 25