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[overtaking]

Ken's right: a NUC vessel (not under command) cannot "run up the bum of the other." Rule 13 states "Notwithstanding anything contained in the Rules of Part B, Sections I and II..." As to Ken's other point, Rule 13 addresses an overtaking vessel where Rule 17(b) speaks to a stand-on vessel (the one being overtaken.) So, they're not incompatible. I think you'll find very few, if any, investigations of vessel collisions where one party was assigned 100% of the fault - thanks to Rule 17(b).

BTW Paul, we used "Only" at the beginning of the mnemonic in the masters class I took.

FYI for iPhone people uploading pictures: The new iOS11 introduces a new "High Efficiency" photo compression called HEIF/HVEC. When I upgraded to iOS11, it defaulted to the new file type. Go into Settings - Camera - Formats and change back to "Most Compatible" if you want to keep using the JPEG format.

Dietrich,
My upgrade looks just like yours. I wish we had room for a second switch for "reverse." Fortunately the remote works well.

Hi Chuck,
You might consider posting the question to the Raymarine tech forum http://forum.raymarine.com/index.php
I've had pretty good luck getting answers there although it might take a few days.

I replaced my 500 with the VW10-8. You'll have to bore out the hole a bit as dfloeter said. It's an excellent replacement. The wiring and breaker are already heavy enough to support the motor.

You mentioned you were getting the wireless remote. If your MK II is like mine, the OEM windlass was one-direction. To utilize the reverse-direction capability of the wireless remote, you'll need a 2-way solenoid. FYI, here's the one I bought: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=132560

Jack,
If you also use a propane grill onboard, consider getting an adaptor for the 1-pound disposable propane bottles in case your larger tank runs out. It's cheap back-up. I keep one on my boat, but haven't needed it yet. I have another one at home where I did need it when my 20-lb tank ran out in the middle of grilling some steaks. 
I just did a search on Amazon and saw this one for ten bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2BD2XH/ref=asc_df_B01N2BD2XH5142364/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01N2BD2XH&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141575819&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10877595796553368203&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007880&hvtargid=pla-375634169197

Ken: Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping to replace the mounts when I haul out this fall.
Noah: From what I've read, the lag screw holes might not line up.
Patrice: I think I've talked myself out of the R&D mounts. They're tapered where the lag screw slot is, so there's not much opportunity to expand it.

Yeah, the OEM Westerbeke mounts are $227 each. The R&D Marine mounts are about half that.
R&D claims they match the bolt pattern, but I notice from their drawings that the slots for the lag bolts aren't as wide as those on the OEMs. A couple of mine are mounted a little off-center, so I might have to suck it up amd buy from Westerbeke. 

Does anyone have experience with the R&D Marine engine mounts? I'm planning to replace the mounts on a Universal M35B.
I searched and found that someone asked a question about R&D engine mounts and flexible couplings, but all the responses at the time (2009) focussed on flexible couplings.

I had the same problem when I bought my new-to-me 2000 MkII. Water puddled under the shaft and then overflowed past the engine and onto the cabin sole. I noticed water stains at the base of the teak engine compartment panels and figured I'd have to drill the hole described in the paper that Noah posted. After getting my face right next to the transmission (not easy), I discovered a clogged limber hole. Here's hoping you will too.

The Raymarine ST6002 should auto-tack without wind data. Pressing the +1 and +10 simultaneously should turn you 100 degrees to starboard. Likewise, pressing -1 and -10 together will tack 100 degrees to port. 100 degrees is the factory default setting and can be changed in a set-up menu - I forget where.

FYI: Last summer, I helped install a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel pilot on a Garmin NMEA2000 backbone that included a Garmin wind sensor. The autopilot would randomly shut down with the error "No Pilot." After many fruitless hours with tech support, we finally separated the autopilot from the Garmin backbone and it's worked well ever since. The downside is you can't set the autopilot to a wind angle and can't tell it to go to a waypoint from the chart plotter. All this is to caution that some Garmin and Raymarine devices might not get along even if they're properly connected. NMEA is a standard except when it's not.

I've always done my own bottom painting, so I can't reference any invoices. However, I did find one quote of $21/ft. in the Annapolis area for haul, wash, prep, paint, and launch.

I have a 2000 MkII, hull# 1471 that I purchased in 2012. I've made a lot of upgrades since, but nothing that kept me from sailing. I keep it just south of Annapolis in Mayo. Incidentally, I traded up from a Catalina 250 wing keel also.

I'd be happy to compare notes if you want to contact me directly: mdforester at verizon.net