Messages

Chuck,

Here is a photo of some "Window Sticks" that Ron mentioned. Looks like my PO probably made them out of 1" PVC and some rubber chair leg caps.

-Eric

FWIW, in addition to SD, there are also flare collection events all over California on different dates. 

I am not based in LA, but a quick internet search found this group: https://www.catalinasmbay.org/ It's probably the fleet Stu was talking about. 

Mine failed about a year ago.  I found a control module online for around $90, but my compressor was shot, so I replaced the whole cold machine which was around $1100 and added up to $2000 something once you added paying someone to install it.  I bought a control module first and attempted to replace it myself, but it did not solve the issue, so I can't verify the source.  See if you can find a model number on your controller.  You can search for "101n0210 danfoss" which I think was the one mine had, but it was discontinued and I think you would have to try a later model which may be the "101n0212" but I am not 100% sure. 

Anyway, I hope that helps. 

-Eric

FWIW, I had a similar idea about WD-40 and doing that made my pedestal go from hard to impossible, so I don't recommend it. In the catalina direct listing it warns about not using lubricant and I think I read it somewhere else too after I already had used it, but it was a while ago. I hardly ever lower the table, so I have just lived with it since. I did find a system that looks very similar to the Zwaardvis pedestal on my 88 and very well could be manufactured by Zwaardvis here: https://tacomarine.com/triton-2-stage-adjustable-table-pedestal-system

-Eric

I am reviving this topic because I believe I am going to need to replace my sink and the Catalina direct price is now up to $670.  I am looking at this sink
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/vollrath-102-1-2-17-x-25-2-compartment-20-gauge-stainless-steel-drop-in-sink-10-deep/922102-1-2.html instead.  One could google Vollrath 102-1-2 to find other similarly priced sources for that sink.  Anyone have any recommendations on sourcing a replacement sink? I am also interested in any faucet model recommendations because I will have to replace that as well. 

Thanks,
Eric

The PO installed the Schaefer boom furling system on my 1988. That, combined with the electric winch he also installed, makes raising and lowering the main a breeze. I have owned the boat for 10 years and haven't had any issues with the furling system. I don't reef very often, but you have a lot more flexibility there. Performance doesn't take a huge hit because you can still have a fully battened main. You do lose some ability to adjust your main sail. No outhaul, or cunningham, extra weight in the boom, so you will need to upgrade your vang as well. I think it might extend the life of the mainsail as it's really well protected when furled. I have heard they are quite expensive, though.

https://www.schaefermarine.com/our-products/boom-furlers/

I have some photos of the blocks installed on my 88. They were originally installed by the previous owner and he used 2" high wood backing, but I replaced the turning blocks he used with new Garhauer blocks recently. I don't know any of the rationale for his choices in how he set it up, but it seems to work fine.

I used Whyte Cap Canvas Works in San Diego to replace a couple of pieces of canvas that had worn out recently. Peter did a good job for me and I feel like the price was fair. My dodger is about to wear out and, when I decide to replace it, I plan to get multiple estimates to compare prices, but I will definitely get an estimate from him.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/whyte-cap-canvas-works-san-diego-2

Hello Sailors,

The guard arm on my Hood Seafurl broke off on my 1988 and I lost my furling line guard. It still furls and unfurls fine, but some of the furling line will always escape from the drum during a sail and so someone needs to go up to the bow and make sure the line is in the furler drum before furling the genoa. I would like to try to fix it since the basic furling mechanism still works. I emailed Hood to see if they had any replacement parts and they said no and that the company that did the tooling for those parts went bankrupt in 1994. So, any advice or creative ideas from the wise sailors on here? Or any old Hood Seafurls lying around that were replaced?

Thanks,
Eric

Ken,

FWIW, the link below is the alternator I have on my boat as I was considering buying a new one recently. Instead, I had it rebuilt because the housing had cracked due to too much vibration on the bolt through the mounting bracket. The electrical was fine. I bought a replacement housing online and a better bolt to limit vibration that I found in a post on c34.org somewhere. I didn't have the tools to do the alternator rebuild on my own. So I found a local alternator shop, that did the repair for much cheaper than a new alternator. Could be an option for you too.

Part No: 8MR2198L
http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?pf=true&item_detail_id=26470&item=8MR2198L&product=ALTERNATOR

I have always found this price comparison helpful when investigating Marinas here: http://www.cvmarina.com/amenities-slip-fees/san-diego-marina-slip-fee-comparison/ 

In general, pricing seems to be based on a combination of convenience to the ocean/amenities. The more of some combination of those, the more expensive the marina. I am at the Marriott Marina downtown and it is expensive, but has a great location and, since I live on my boat, having a walk-able neighborhood is worth it to me, but if I didn't live on my boat I think I might pick a less expensive shelter or harbor island marina because it is more convenient to the sailing/racing events and services around here. Everyone has different priorities though...

-Eric

I think you found what I was talking about.  I simple moved the cable back in the clamp about as far as I was comfortable that the clamp would still hold the cable and that was enough of an adjustment for me. There is separation in the cable that is ideal for the clamp's notch in my cable, as well, so it might be more ideal to adjust at the compass to keep that clamp in the notch, but I found that the clamp holds quite strong where I was able to put it, although you may want more of an adjustment than I did. I think I removed my compass the first time the problem occurred and felt like there were a lot more ways for me to screw up a repair up there than down below, but you and others may feel differently. Although, I may have purchased some longer screws to hold the clamp in after the boatyard guy managed to accidentally yank the cable out while installing a drip-less shaft.  Maybe I shouldn't be, but I am comfortable with it now and it has worked so far for me. I have attached pictures of how my cable is attached in case that might help. 

I have had this problem a couple of times.  First when replacing the plastic gear shift with the metal ones in which case I could not get into forward and then again one time coming back from the boat yard when someone who was working on my boat in the general area of the transmission cable unintentionally "adjusted" it so that I did not have reverse. To fix it I made all of my adjustments below the aft cabin where the transmission cable has a screw on attachment a little ways behind the transmission that allows you to adjust the cable forward or backward slightly, but enough for me, relative to the transmission. I would make adjustments down below and then run the engine and make sure I could put the boat in forward and reverse at low rpm while still tied to the dock until I was happy with it.  The results of that process have worked fine for me so far. 

-Eric

Thanks Ron.  I have tried to attach a photo of the prop from when it was installed in the yard.  It does look like there is more than an inch between the hub and the strut.  That could be an issue.

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