Messages

There is one sitting in Lake Union that just went on the market that is a 97 C34.  Clean, well appointed, and well priced.  Let me know if you need details.  ksteck@stanelyworks.com

Josh:

I have had the same exact issue until I upgraded the wiring harness and replaced the amp meter with the volt meter on the engine panel. Starts everytime now. I believe I sent you an email referencing this to check out prior to purchase so maybe you already have verified this was done by the PO. If not it will give you the symptoms you discribed and is a huge potential fire hazard as written up many times. Kelly Steck - Puffin

Those of you that have access to a router, laminate bit, double sided tape, original lens, drill and Forstner bit can do the job yourself and increase the thickness of the lens to 3/8" thick by going to your local acrylic supplier to get some tinted acrylic to the rough dimensions. Cut out the acrylic witht he router using the old lens as the template.  Order a new gasket, mask off the lens and frame with masking tape then inject some GE Ultraglaze (black) and you are set.  All can be done for less than $50.

Been there done the modification as I also have the microwave under the sink.  I have need using a macerator pump for years that I plumbed into the area where the foot pump used to be.  Wow does it drain the sink fast.  Also works great for draining the fridge when the two sink drain stoppers are closed.  This pump needs no priming.

I reglazed the Bomar hatch myself.  Went to my local supplier of acrylic sheeting and took my old hatch acrylic which I had removed from the frame with a lot of coaxing with a razor blade and screw driver.  The cut and drilled the new acrylic to an exact copy of the old crazed acrylic.  I then cleaned out all the old caulking and wiped everything down with denatured alcohol. Then I masked the aluminum frame with masking tape.  Also masked the acrylic right up to the outside top edge. I then placed the acrylic into the dry aluminum frame centered.  I then placed 3M Ultraglaze which is the same material that was used at the factory for glazing the acrylic.  This can only be purchased from a local Authorized GE distributor of commercial construction supply house. 
Then once the caulk is palaced into the aluminum frame, I then took a putty knife dipped it into mineral spirits and then proceeded to strike or spread out and distribute the caulking material, making sure it filled in all the voids and air pockets.  Upon being satisfied that the material was well distributed I then pulled off all the masking tape.  You must be very careful when doing this not to disturb the centering of the acrylic to the frame.  The masking tape will have a lot of caulking on it so you must also be careful not to get it on you or the hatch assembly.  Then yo must wait for about 2 weeks time for the material to cure.  Do not disturb the hatch before then or you will not get a good seal.  I have done this over a year ago and there has not been a drop of water coming through.  It is like a brand new hatch and you will save a lot of money.  Total cost.  Caulk =$9.00 Acrylic = $45.00

Kelly Steck

I made my set with twist stainless fastners in the center of the hand loops.  I also sewed in an extension to cover the teak eye brows and inserted lead fishing weight at the bottom to keep it in place.  Works great and looks great as well.  I am getting 3 years without having to recoat the varnish. If you have sewing machine it is a rather simple project you can take on yourself. 

Good luck, Kelly

The thru-hull exit for the bilge pump on the Mk1 is actually below the water when the boat is moving. This allows water to re-enter the bilge area unless a check valve (not recommended) or a vented loop is placed near the thru hull above the water line.  In my case I installed a vented loop.  The ideal situation is to install a new thru hull higher than the factory position to eliminate the issue.

I am wanting to add a second temp.sensor in my thermostat housing so that I can have an audible alarm for overheating.  Does anyone know what the temp. trip should be to close the electrical contact for the alarm?  I am assuming 200+ but I am not sure.  I assume that it should be easy to drill and tap as the housing appears to be cast aluminum.

Puffin 1987
Kelly Steck
Engine: Universal M25XP

Dear Sleepless in Portland:

Are you sure it is lapping on the transom?  I used to be just as frustrated until I learned that it was causing the sound.  It really does sound just like it!  I discovered after trial and error that it the sound was not coming from the water lapping but the rear water tank when it was less than full.  I ended up replacing the original non-baffled plastic tank with a stainless steel tank with two baffles.  Problem solved.  Best way to test to see if the sound is coming from the tank and not the transom?  Fill the water tank to capacity and then listen.  

Good luck, KS

I am needing to replace my head port on my 1987.  I assumed it was a 5 in. x 12 in Beckson port.  I purchased one at the local WM and got to the boat and discovered that it was not exactly the same size.  The latches on the port window are not the traditional cammed latches Beckson is known for.  Mine are black knurrled threaded knobs. There is no indication of the manufacture on the port.  I have also tried to search the message board for a previous thread and found nothing.  In 1987 was there a different brand of port used?  Must I source this from Catalina Parts?  I would like to use a self-draining port in lue of the standard non-self draining model that I currently have.

Thanks Kelly

I installed one last year.  I had to shorten it just a bit then soaked it in boiling water.  Put on some gloves upon removal from the water.  Then I liberally put dish soap on the inside of the hose as well as the riser and muffler nipples.  Installed the muffler end first as far as you can make it go.  Then fold the top of the hump hose over to clear the riser and then push and twist like crazy.

Ted:

I also use the VHF atenna for the radio.  I added a coax switch and can manually turn it to which ever device I am using at the time. Obviously it eliminated any noise. It does not allow the use of both devises at the same time.

Kelly

I have two instances over a 1year period where the pump just stopped pupming.  After disassembley I found that the impellar was totally pack full of _____.  Not a pleasant experince.  The chopper blades apparently were not enough to break everything up.  One of the keys is that you must use a lot of water.  I find that my tank fills up a lot quicker with the addition of the electric version.  One other problem was that if you try and regulate the flow of in coming water supply and use the original toilet water supply hose (in my case it is the same thru-hull as the shower pan drain is hooked to) and you engage the diaphram pump to drain the shower pan it will fill the toilet with all the waste water.  So think about where the most sutiable petcock.

Kelly

FYI there are companies that make a welder for fusing sheets of PVC, LDPE, and ABS.  I made my custom battery box out of 1/4in. sheet of PVC and welded it with a Steinel brand hot air gun plastic welder.  It is essentially a electronic temprature controlled hot air gun with a special nozzle that allows you to insert an appropriate welding rod of PVC, LDPE, or ABS.  The rod is melted and the sheet joint is melted as well as you make the weld.  The key is not to burn the material that is why the hot air gun is electronicaly controled.  


Anyway this could be a solution.

Mike:

First here is my email address: ksteck@stanleyworks.com or k.steck@comcast.net.

I did complete the installation of my inverter and it turned out wonderful.  I have it tucked under the chart table and attached to the wall of the hanging wet locker.  The unit is out of sight and is hard wired into all the 120 volt outlets.  I installed a blue seas source switch that changes the 120 volt input from either shore power  or the inverter.  The inverter input is ran directly from four 6 volt Trojan wet cell golf cart style batteries. The batteries are located in the original battery locker.  I hand made a PVC battery box from 1/4 inch PVC sheet and heat welded the joints in the locker.  It will not come out unless you destroy the box but, the batteries are sealed with a lid and they are secure.  In addition I did not have to modify anything in the locker.  I have a thing for making sure everything on my boat stays stock. The inverter is a pure sine inverter from a company in Taiwan that my company does business with us for other inverters and electronic items.  The company private labels inverters for export into the USA to a number of companies.  I like this inverter for its compact size and long duty cycle. The inverter also has a power saving feature automatically powers it down into a sleep mode.
Interested in any more details let me know.  I would be glad to share.