Messages

Krafty,
The location of the glow plug activation varies by the age of the boat and modifications that may have been made by previous owners but, based on your fairly late model hull number, I expect the glow plugs are activated by the key. On my boat I rotate the key to the "on" or "ignition" position, then rotate it farther against a spring to activate my glow plugs.  I hold the key against the spring for about 10 seconds and then push the start button while still holding the key in the glow position.

I think mine are riveted but I might be mistaken.  I've never had them come loose so I haven't had reason to look too closely.

I'm not sure where you're located but in southern Ontario (or elsewhere in Canada) Anthony Keats in Wheatley, Ont on the north shore of Lake Erie is likely the best place. They are helpful on the phone and shipping is reasonable.

Replacing the clutches would be a factory authorized service centre job. It's not something that can be done by the owner; at least not easily. The transmission would have to come out to do the job.

Hi pbyrne,
The pictures don't help. They don't show the joint between the transmission and the bell housing on the back of the engine. If you can see bolts that look like they will allow you to unbolt the transmission from the back of the engine, the engine doesn't need to come out. If you can't see any bolts, it's mounted from the inside and the engine must come out. I recall there was a good write up about removing the transmission to replace the damper plate without pulling the pack on the C350 website. Here it is.

http://www.catalina350.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=685

It wasn't applicable to me and may not be to you either but it's worth a look.

I removed and replaced my transmission last fall. Here's the write up. https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11865.msg96487.html#msg96487
I suspect you have an M35B engine that I'm fairly certain has an adapter plate for the transmission. My M35A engine mounts the transmission from inside the bell housing so the engine had to come out to remove the transmission. You may not have to remove the engine to remove your transmission making the job much easier.
I can't imagine how the transmission would operate in forward with the lever on the transmission in the reverse position. I took my old Hurth transmission apart once it was condemned and I recall there is a shifting fork actuated by the shift lever that engages with a shifting sleeve that applies pressure to either the forward or reverse clutch packs. Perhaps the lever to shift fork mechanism is damaged but you'd have to take it apart to determine that. I can't imagine that low oil level or even dirty oil would cause what you're seeing.
Sorry I can't offer any brilliant ideas even though I became very familiar with my transmission last fall.
Good luck with it and let us know how you make out.

I agree with Ron.  I had my engine out and the exhaust flange off last fall to replace my transmission.  I replaced the gasket but what you described seems harmless enough.  Watch your coolant level carefully over the next few hours of engine operation to make sure it's not leaking.  I don't see any risk that the small amount of coolant that leaked could adversely affect your engine.

Hi Mark,
I don't have a Mk II but I've attached a picture of the mounting bolts from my Mk1.5.  There is definitely a tapped backing plate embedded in the fibreglass.  Your boat may be different but a backing plate makes sense from a manufacturing point of view since installing the swim ladder brackets if it was secured with nuts would definitely be a two person job.
The attached picture was taken when I had the rear water tank removed and was renewing the bilge pump hose that discharges at the centreline under the swim ladder on my Mk 1.5.
Good luck with whatever you're doing.

While you have the boom apart, have a look at the gooseneck fitting.  I repaired mine about 12 years ago.  It's worth the relatively little effort it takes.  Here's my writeup on the subject:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169

The "I" dimension is to the deck.
https://www.uksailmakers.com/encyclopedia/rig-dimensions/

Raymond,
Older autopilots didn't have a separate ACU.  When I removed my old Autohelm system, there was only the display (that evidently had some brains built into it), the wheel drive and the compass.  The compass could be located almost anywhere (older Raymarine/ Autohelm compass "pucks" were grey or black, not the nice shiny white like the EV100 system).  The best place for it is approx midships near the centre of rotation for the boat... i.e. low down near the base of the mast).  But some mounted them in lockers or almost anywhere else that was convenient.  Trace the wires and you'll find it.
Good luck.

I am not the guy to give you specifics on your 35B motor. I have an M25XP. Not sure what you mean "what was your approach with Aqualift muffler"? My original muffler is doing fine. Do install a hump hose.

2  hump hose and a fiberglass elbow. Sounds like you should used a hump hose.

Tom

If you're referring to a specific installation please post a link to it or a photo of what you're referring to.
Help is help you.

Perhaps the owner had installed a different muffler or had to change sizes (e.g., 2" to 1-5/8" hose) and used a fiberglass adapter.  Or, used a silicone exhausr hose but not a "hump" hose.

Ken,
I think the post Tom was referring to was this one showing a fibreglass elbow joining two hump hoses:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11848.msg96302.html#msg96302


Tom,
Here's how I replaced my hump hose.  I have an M35Ac in my Mk1.5 C34 but I think this part is fairly common on most C34s.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6878.msg45884.html#msg45884

Raymond,
I've attached a .pdf file showing a schematic of the setup I installed in 2020.  It might be helpful to start sketching out a schematic.  A schematic is very useful to help you plan and visualize a properly integrated system to meet your needs. (and budget!)

My thoughts on your post from earlier today:

1.  The EV-100 system is excellent.  I previously has a Raymarine SPX autopilot that didn't work well and then failed completely.  I debated moving away from Raymarine since they hadn't earned my repeat business but reports that the EV-1 sensor core was a significant improvement and the ubiquity of Raymarine at chandleries that I frequent made me give it a try.  It is excellent for my purposes.  I didn't even change the ST4000 Mk2 Wheel Drive from my old Raymarine system. (as far as I know the new one that came with the EV-100 system kit is identical to the one that was already installed... so I now have a spare wheel drive).  I don't have a rudder position sensor.  Others have reported it makes a difference but I'm OK without it.  It can be added later if necessary.
The p70s display and controller for the EV-100 autopilot is good but, as Alex said, it only gives very basic wind information if you have wind input.  It does allow you to "sail by the wind" steering the boat to a given wind angle.  I rarely use that function.  Like Jim H, I tend to use the autopilot to hold a heading or, in some cases, go to a waypoint.  Although I have the capability, I don't need and I've never had my EV-100 follow a route except to test it to see how / if it worked. 

2.  I have the wired Raymarine short arm wind transducer with 30m of cable.  It connects to the ITC-5 which converts legacy speed, depth and wind input to the STng Network (aka NMEA 2000) allowing the data to be used anywhere on the STng network including the EV-100 autopilot.  I have no knowledge of wireless or Wi-Fi transducers but have heard some grumbling that the older wireless TackTick systems could be unreliable.  Maybe true, maybe not. I didn't consider them when I was updating my system.  If you get an i70s display, you don't need a dedicated wind display although you might prefer it.  I can show wind graphically on my i70s display, my ST60+ legacy display and on my chartplotter. 

3.  As I said earlier, I have no knowledge of Wi-Fi marine instruments.  It sounds like others have successfully integrated their iPad into their instrument system.  If you have the ITC-5 converter, your legacy depth and speed data will be on the STng network and available for any compatible instrument to display.  I use the i70s which is expensive but excellent.  Depth is of prime importance to me and I can display it on the i70s, my legacy ST50+ and my chartplotter.

I'm very happy with my system.  It suits my needs cruising Georgian Bay very well.  I may upgrade my Element chartplotter to an Axiom at some point but other than that, I wouldn't change anything.  Having said that, in my opinion, a B&G system like Noah has is the gold standard.  It is expensive and not as widely available as Raymarine or Garmin in my part of the world but the user interface and the sailing software on B&G plotters is excellent. 

Good luck with your project and keep asking questions.

Pete,
The "green area" is the gasket between the flange and the engine. No cause for alarm there. If there was any kind of a leak, it would be very obvious with copious smoke and significant staining of the area in the picture. Rust is not an indication of an exhaust leak. That connection looks good to me.

Keel,
What makes you think you need to replace your scupper hoses?  Mark II C34s don't have scupper hoses.