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I think the real cause is yet to be explained.  But if Dave is happy with the way the AC works now, then I'm happy to just let this discussion be too.
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Well I was happy until I read the latest posts. Hopefully I was not running the AC off of the batteries via the inverter mode when I left the boat last week. I will check the dip switch settings on the remote panel as Stu suggested. I will also try switching the AC master switch off and then back on again and wait for a few minutes to give it plenty of time to switch back over to AC. Thanks for the additional comments guys.

Problem Solved! Like all problems that are solved, the solution is quite simple. Here is what happened to cause the problem. The stereo flopping down and hitting the control panel did turn off the AC. It actually must have hit the AC Master switch to the off position (stop laughing - it's not funny!). I thought that was a polarity switch to reverse polarity if the power was connected wrong. I actually did move switch the AC switch back on as soon as it happened but it did not fix the problem. Yesterday, with my cool new "no contact AC voltage tester" I did what Stu suggested. For those of you that have never used such a device - it costs about $12 and can sense AC voltage from 60 to 600 volts from the outside of the wire casing - no need to contact the bare wires. Using this tester I checked the power from the shore power inlet finding that I had power to the romex connected to the inlet. I then traced the romex finding that I had power all the way to the panel where the "normal polarity" lights are. From there I saw that a wire went from that to what I thought was the polarity switch - power was going to that. Power was not present on the other side of the switch - so, I turned on the switch and voila - I had power. I tested one of the AC outlets - and power was back on. I plugged in a light and that worked. So - I showed my wife what a genius I was (she sometimes needs convincing). I showed her that that light now worked. I turned off the AC Master switch and off course the light went off. I turned the master switch on again and the light did NOT come on. I unplugged the light, turned the master switch off and then on again - I could hear a click at the inverter. I then plugged in the light and it worked again. So - apparently, if you turn off the master switch with the inverter that I have, you have to turn off all AC devices before turning the switch on again. Thanks everyone for all of your help. I wish the solution did not make me look quite so foolish - but I am just glad it is solved and that I did not get as far as removing the inverter from my v-berth. Case closed!

Thanks Mark for the photos of the butt joints. That appears to be another great solution.

Ron -

I have never tried that but it sounds like a good solution. I will give that a try. Thanks for all your helpful suggestions.

Dave

If you use wire nuts any where on a boat, you MUST tape them to prevent them from vibrating loose and breaking connection. A properly crimped butt connector with insulation is the preferred method of joining wires.  And never put a butt joint in then pull the wire through an inaccessible location so you end up with a blind butt joint.

Ralph

I will put butt joints in if the wire nuts are used. I don't want to get down into the V-berth cavity any more that is absolutely necessary!

Ken-
Thanks for the advice about the connections. I will make sure to eliminate the wingnuts if they are present.

I just called Xantex customer support and they indicated that I should first check that AC power is getting to the I/C unit (which I expect it is). The next item they suggested is to check the two fuses inside of the unit. The tech expects that one or both of the fuses may be blown. He cautioned me to disconnect all power for a period of a couple of hours or so to allow stored energy to disapate prior to opening the unit. I should probably install some type of fuse ahead of the I/C while I am at it so a similar problem will be easier to fix in the future. Thanks for your help - I now have a good plan for fixing this issue!

What band were you playing??  AC/DC

Ralph

I think it was a new band called "Loose Connections".

Any one have a great idea of where to look next?

Between the shorepower inlet and the inverter connection.

That sounds like a good plan Stu. The inverter is installed in a very inaccessible area of the v-berth. I was able to get a visual inspection of it, but I did not try to verify how it was connected to AC. This will be my project for this week-end. It is quite difficult to see how the wiring actually gets back to the inverter, but from your post - it appears that the AC goes from shore power inlet to the inverter and then back to the panel. Thanks again.

I don't think the stereo touching the panel is anything more than a coincidence.  Start at the shore power plug.  Are you really getting 120Vac from the dock?  If yes, is that 120 Vac getting to the switch on electrical panel?  If either are no, figure out why.

The power at the shore plug shows 120. The only power that I can detect at the panel is that there are a couple of lights that indicate "normal polarity" that light up. I was not able to detect power coming into the 30 amp breaker and therefore it must be that power is stopped somewhere on its way to the inverter or from the inverter to the panel. Since I am new to the boat I am not sure exactly how the power is routed - but from what Stu suggested, it must go the the inverter first. Thanks for your help - I will be back at it this coming week-end and implement the help I am receiving on the forum.

Did you check your ground fault detector?? Remember all the plugs, down stream from unit, are covered.

I don't think my 1986 C34 has GFI protection. At least none of the outlets are GFI outlets. Thanks for the suggestions though.

I installed a new stereo and everything worked fine until the bottom of the stereo touched the electrical panel cover. I now have no shore power. I do have 12 volt power and if I turn on the Freedom 10 inverter, I have power to my AC outlets. I have checked the 30 amp breaker (it never tripped and it does have continuity when pressed in). I also removed the electrical panel to look for potential issues - seeing nothing unusual. There was no spark, sound or smell when the stereo touched the panel. I do not have GFI outlets. When I connect to shore power two lights on the electrical panel are lit showing normal polarity. The green AC power light on the panel does not light, and also the remote panel for the Freedom charger/inverter does not register AC as being connected. I checked the bus fuse between the batteries and the Freedom charger and find that that is good. I am ready to find someone that is good with boat electrical systems as I suspect this may be a difficult issue to resolve in a forum - but what the heck. Any one have a great idea of where to look next? Thanks!