I already have 50 ft of the Trident 101 hose at the boat ready to go (it was cheaper to buy a hole 50' than the 36' I measured.
Trident 101 is a great choice...as long as your hose runs are straight. Bu not the best choice if there are bends in the run tighter than a gentle sweep 'cuz it's stiff as an ironing board and you should NEVER heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend willingly...that stretches the "skin" on the outside of the radius, which can lead to tears in it...weakens the inside of the radius, which can result in a kinked hose. So if a bend is tight, you need to break the hose and insert an in-line radius fittings. One or two in a long run is ok...more than that needs a softer more flexible hose.
I'd like to keep the tank in it's current location but am open to changing that decision if necessary.
From what you say about the hose run, that should be possible...though it may require a downhill run that's bit steeper than what you have now.
Adding a new location to the bow end of the tank seems easy enough. Any suggestions on the best way to seal up the current vent hole at the aft end of the tank?
As I said above...a threaded plug--available from any hardware store--wrapped in plenty of Teflon tape is all that' needed.
I'm assuming base on what input I've heard so far and what I've picked up on from other threads, the current through hull for the vent hose is much too low and too close to the waterline. Is that correct?
Yup...it is. It shouldn't be any lower than a foot below the toe rail and should be as far forward as you can put it. You want it to be as straight as possible and we want it to be 1".
If you plan to do any extended blue water sailing, we may need to put a shutoff valve on it, to prevent taking on water through the vent in seas heavy enough to keep the thru-hull under water for extended periods...which won't be a problem 'cuz you'll have modified the plumbing to let you flushing direct overboard in open sea.
I have another question regarding the hoses and diverter valve at the bottom of the tank leading to the pump-out and/or the overboard discharge. Does this all need to stay above the bottom level of the tank so waste doesn't rest in any of the hoses? I was planning on going strait out of the tank with a strait connection to the diverter valve. Now, I'm second guessing that and thinking that I should keep the 90 degree elbow and run the hose upwards from there to some degree.
How much clearance do you have above the tank? If at least 5", we can move the discharge fitting(s) to the top of the tank with pickup tube(s) inside the tank. If you don't have that much, we need to aim a 90 discharge fitting straight up and use a piece of hard sched 80 to the top of the tank, then switch to hose to go to the y'valve and then the o'board discharge pump--both of which can be high--and then to the thru-hull.
Trident 101 is a great choice...as long as your hose runs are straight. Bu not the best choice if there are bends in the run tighter than a gentle sweep 'cuz it's stiff as an ironing board and you should NEVER heat a hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend willingly...that stretches the "skin" on the outside of the radius, which can lead to tears in it...weakens the inside of the radius, which can result in a kinked hose. So if a bend is tight, you need to break the hose and insert an in-line radius fittings. One or two in a long run is ok...more than that needs a softer more flexible hose.
I'd like to keep the tank in it's current location but am open to changing that decision if necessary.
From what you say about the hose run, that should be possible...though it may require a downhill run that's bit steeper than what you have now.
Adding a new location to the bow end of the tank seems easy enough. Any suggestions on the best way to seal up the current vent hole at the aft end of the tank?
As I said above...a threaded plug--available from any hardware store--wrapped in plenty of Teflon tape is all that' needed.
I'm assuming base on what input I've heard so far and what I've picked up on from other threads, the current through hull for the vent hose is much too low and too close to the waterline. Is that correct?
Yup...it is. It shouldn't be any lower than a foot below the toe rail and should be as far forward as you can put it. You want it to be as straight as possible and we want it to be 1".
If you plan to do any extended blue water sailing, we may need to put a shutoff valve on it, to prevent taking on water through the vent in seas heavy enough to keep the thru-hull under water for extended periods...which won't be a problem 'cuz you'll have modified the plumbing to let you flushing direct overboard in open sea.
I have another question regarding the hoses and diverter valve at the bottom of the tank leading to the pump-out and/or the overboard discharge. Does this all need to stay above the bottom level of the tank so waste doesn't rest in any of the hoses? I was planning on going strait out of the tank with a strait connection to the diverter valve. Now, I'm second guessing that and thinking that I should keep the 90 degree elbow and run the hose upwards from there to some degree.
How much clearance do you have above the tank? If at least 5", we can move the discharge fitting(s) to the top of the tank with pickup tube(s) inside the tank. If you don't have that much, we need to aim a 90 discharge fitting straight up and use a piece of hard sched 80 to the top of the tank, then switch to hose to go to the y'valve and then the o'board discharge pump--both of which can be high--and then to the thru-hull.