Messages

check the bleed screw on the fuel filter .... may not be tight and sucking air

I have two Sherwood raw water impellers for sale that I had on my M25XP if anyone interested, email me: "glennoli@verizon.net"

I switched to an Oberdorfer pump, and had these as spares.  I have the old pump too with shaft, too.

Tom

   I experienced the same feeling last fall when "Slow Dance" was sold (Could it be something about a boat name with Dance in it??)
Seemed there was never enough time anymore, and all my former cruising companions got rid of their boats and bought Harleys!

For those of you on a mooring... the "noodles" are great to have on your painters as floats to keep the lines from sinking and wrapping your mooring ball chain!

Obvious, but... is the "kill"  switch engaged??  Happened to me once while approaching a Harbor... couldn't figure out why the engine would not start... then I saw the handle was pulled!

The company I used is a LEwmar authorized vendor:
Select Plastics, 219 Liberty Square, Norwalk, CT 06855  (203) 866-3767 I spoke with "Tony", who was very familiar with these smoked replacements
The ports measure: 12 3/16" W x 5 3/16" H and came all pre-drilled.  Was a very simple swap-out.  I purchased these quite a while ago, and I believe they can to $260 for the 6.

I replaced mine on my '87  the company was in CT.

I will get the info and post it later today for you.

I replaced the sherwood on my M25XP with an Oberdorfer... Now I have one brand new Sherwood impeller, and one lightly used, along with gaskets if anyone is interested in buying these, please let me know.

Tom

Catalina uses a Dow product: Building Sealant 945?? something like that... it is used to seal the large windows in commercial buildings. You don't need screws to hold the windows in with this stuff

For "minor" crazing, you could try the wet sandpaper pads that come with the Mother's kit that are labeled for "severe" fogging... try in an inconspicuous area and see how that works.

I was about to bight the bullet and get new Plexiglas deadlights for the main cabin, as mine had become "foggy" since I last replaced them... going on 9 years ago. I decided to try one last thing before going that route: Headlight Cleaner!!
I picked up a kit in the Automotive section of Mothers Headlight Restorer. It contains a bottle of liquid cleaner, buffing towel, small squares of wet sandpaper, and an applicator ball that affixes to a drill.

I washed the outside plexiglas, and then used the liquid cleaner with the applicator on my electric drill... and after buffing with the cloth, they looked almost like new!  The kit cost about $22, and there is enough liquid for probably 4 applications.
Something to consider when the regular washing just doesn't seem to do the trick any more!

David:
Did you leave the engine in place when you removed the oil pan?  I have an M25XP on my '87 that I think I am going to replace the oil pan on... Kubota certainly seems the way to go.  I have acess to a good welding shop, so any mods I can bring the old pan and the new one to them. 

For what it's worth: Raritan says that a vented loop should be placed betwen the pump (water intake) and the bowl... as well as the discharge vented loop that is typical in most installations.

I brought my compass to Ritchie personally, as the fluid was half gone.
They did a total refurbish, and it cost me about $180.
I don't think they would do it for nada unless it was fairly new, and had an obvious flaw in production.

I switched from Sherwood to Oberdorfer on my '87 M25XP this past season, and was very pleased with the performance... great flow out the exhaust... and temp kept at a steady 160 degrees after normal warm-up.