Messages

Hi Ron,
I had to figure out how, hope it works! My set up will be different than yours. My M35 is in a 1989 C&C 37+. I like the C34 site for the great engine information! The separator will just fasten on anywhere that is convenient for you and plumb it to fit. 
Len

Waterdog,
Sounds like you found the problem. I use a jegs oil separator on my M35. It has a see thru glass (high temp plastic) so you can monitor the oil level in the separator. It has a twist drain on the bottom and cost about $45 but worth it IMHO. I routed the outlet to my engine (K&N) air filter and no longer have an oily bilge. See the link attached. There are more suppliers than jegs, but they were able to deliver it to me. Good Luck.

Len
SV/ Crazy Legs 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Air-Oil-Separator/763433/10002/-1

MBSC Yes it does!

Fred,
It is going to depend on the size of the hole but from what I have heard, JB Weld is just epoxy with metal and perfect for fixing aluminum. It should expand and contract about the same, they use it on aluminum engine parts that heat up and cool down too. Sandpaper and acetone should work. I have never tried JB Weld but apparently its easy to use and you don't need much. If it's just a small hole, try it. If you need a "refrigerant" hose PM me or drive next door and look me up. I believe R 134 is on sale this week for half price at CTC. It wont take very long or a pile of cash to try it.

I will be on the boat this weekend or at least Fri-Sat winterizing, drinking ice cold beer from my repaired and previously scary refrigerator. If it doesn't work, you can always budget for the spring! 
Len
CRAZY LEGS
Midland.

Fred, I would take it out of the boat and try John Daniells or Hooks both on King St. It probably only runs at about 12 PSI. The recharge kit is less than $50 so it won't cost much to try and fix it! You will need a $12 digital kitchen scale to recharge it. You will only need an ounce or two of freon so less than a quarter can. The unit will have a set of couplings that can be disconnected with two wrenches but you have to take care removing and reinstalling it (and both the copper lines), no kinks in the copper.

The weld is the hard part of the job, never used JB Weld before but you won't even need to remove the condenser to try that if it works on aluminum! 

Len Mitchell
S/V CRAZY LEGS
Midland

 www.kollmann-marine.com

Kevin,

Do yourself a favor if you are trying to understand your electrical system: purchase a digital clamp on ammeter. A good quality meter is less than $60 (Sears) a medium quality meter is less than $20. You can verify your readings and you will have a continuity tester/volt meter too. Nigel Calder books are worth their weight in gold. The easy way is to call and pay for an expert but you won't learn anything. What are you going to do when it craps out away from the dock? Read and if it doesn't sink in, read it again. Good luck.

Len

Wobegon,

I would like to take a stab at it...turn the water intake off and check the rectangular gasket under the pump handle. I had the same problem and one of the flaps had broken off stopping the pump. I believe it's called a top valve gasket. (There are two bronze weights on this gasket.) Good Luck!

Len