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I know this has happened to others here, but it finally happened to us returning to Boston Harbor at the end of great day of sailing. Blowing 18-20 with gusts higher and Boston Harbor buzzing with ferries and recreational watercraft of all kinds on a beautiful Father's Day. When we rolled side to side from large high speed ferry wake suddenly a crash and the boom disconnects hitting the deck. I was able to lash it to the mast so I could drop the main. Upon returning to our slip, I discovered the teeny weeny cotter pin that secures the gooseneck to the boom had sheared.

Any advise on repair/replacement would be most appreciated. Alternative parts etc. Would like to get back out sailing.

Thanks
Shanagolden

Thanks for your suggestions.

I performed Stu's method of removing the lower hose below the thermostat and poured 50/50 mix in with a small funnel until it squirted out the nipple. Reattached the hose, fired her up and no overheating !!!

Ran the engine for about 20-25 mins and all seems normal.

Thanks again

Shanagolden

I just installed a new heat exchanger on my M25 engine. The old one had seen better days and had a bad case of clogged arteries. I drained the antifreeze mix out of the two hoses that go to heat exchanger. After a few skinned knuckles and some swears I replaced all the old hoses to and from the heat exchanger. Now that everything is all hooked up, I filled up the manifold with new antifreeze and fired up the engine. Must have an air lock since the temp gauge went to the moon pretty quick. I have read the engine airlock section in the wiki - I will try the "burping" method - I do have question on it though. After you take the 3/8 hose off the bottom of the thermostat and pour antifreeze in should I have the thermostat housing cover off ? So you can see the thermostat ? I know this sounds like I am a little slow but I just want to be sure. Is it possible there is an air lock in the new heat exchanger. should I pour some antifreeze into the nipple on the exchanger ?

Thanks for your comments and help on this - the countdown to launching is on as is the pressure to be ready. 

I'm in the process of replacing my fuel tank with a shiny clean new one, although work has been on hold with the snowmagedon and arctic temperatures in Boston over the last couple of weeks. The new tank came with 2 large clean-out ports that will be a huge improvement over the old one. I'm also thinking of updating the primary fuel filter with a modern racor (the original Dahl 60 works but is 29 years old). The facet fuel lift pump I think is original too. It has a paper filter cartridge that is a bear to change. You have to wiggle it for a long time to get it out - same going in -skinned knuckles and swears. So my questions are what is the best racor model fuel filter and facet lift pump to go with my old 25M engine. thanks for help and comments. This coming season I'm going to have the cleanest fuel in Boston Harbor. Shanagolden

thank you for your responses. Too cold up here in Boston to work on the boat this weekend (25 degrees).

I plan on replacing my fuel hoses this winter. Shanagolden has 1986 25M Universal engine. What size hose and brand recommendations would be most appreciated.

I replaced my same cabin fixture lightbulbs with replacements from marinebeam LED's. They have been working very well for two seasons now. My boat is also a 1986 #212.

Shanagolden

I forgot to add that the little paper type filter that goes in my old facet fuel pump is a pain in the butt to remove and reinstall. Very tight fit for the little filter.

thanks for the comments so far. i replace the little filter in the fuel pump at least annually.

shanagolden

My 1986 #212 has the original Dahl-60 primary fuel filter and fuel pump (Facet-with a small paper filter element as opposed to the red plastic screen type). I keep reading how most boats today use Racor primary filters. Any reason to replace the old Dahl-60 which seems to work OK with a Racor? If so, what Racor filter works best? Also my fuel pump is first in line from the tank. Been that way for 28 years. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.

To answer the questions, I have used a fuel conditioner recommended by a diesel mechanic, put a small amount in only at fill ups . Can't remember the product.

The polishing guy went into the tank through the deck fill opening and out the sender opening .

Not sure I know what a "p-ring" is.

Thanks for the comments.

Had a fuel polishing/tank cleaning service polish the fuel and supposedly clean the tank in my 1986 #212 original equipment twice over the past year. I am still getting a peanut butter colored goo-like sediment in my Dahl fuel filter separator bowl. Could my tank be corroded ? Had one engine shut down experience with clogged filters. Not looking forward to that again. No fun when it is blowing 30 in a tight mooring field.
Thinking of replacing the tank. Anyone have some helpful hints on the replacement process. Catalina Direct sells a replacement tank. Any recommendations for other tank suppliers.

Thanks,
Shanagolden 

Every year or so I have changed my CNG tank without issue until this year when I connected the new filled tank, I can't seem to get a good seal. I tighten her up like I have in past and open the gas tank  valve and gas is leaking around the fitting. I seem to remember reading a post in the past where someone had this same experience, but never saw a response as to the fix. Appreciate any help on this.

Shanagolden

Thanks for all the advice. Figure while I'm having the standing rigging done, I'll have the mast light wiring redone. I read somewhere that the original wiring was not per-tinned and subject to corrosion. Might be why my mast lights only work intermittently. Any ideas on the cost for retiring the mast lights ?

Thanks

I have owned Shanagolden 1986 #212 for the past 6 years. No records of maintenance by the prior owners is available. At my haul out I had the mast pulled and figured I would have the standing rigging inspected. The rigger said everything looks like original 1986 vintage and all should be replaced. New wire, turnbuckles and swaging will cost $2975- derig an rerig -$375 - plus upgrade fuller head stay wire to the proper size and head stay pins- $1530. Does this sound in the ballpark for the job ?

Thanks in advance for thoughts and comments.