Messages

Ted:

Thank you.....not a bad idea.....the economy and the first of 3 in college did me in. The buyer will regret it when he starts outfitting the boat.

Chris Martinson

Unfortunately I had to sell my boat the the new owner wasn't interested in any of the cruising items at a steeply discounted price.  It will be awhile before I get another sailboat and would like to sell the items.  They range from an inflatable and outboard, Garhauer outboard lifting crane, Handheld GPS, folding bikes, safety items, low stretch halyard, extra dock lines etc.  I have never been successful in attaching items so I can email anyone interested a list with corresponding pictures.

If interested, please email me and I will send the list and picture.

cnmartinson@comcast.net

I will miss my boat and the support of this website.....it has been a very positive experience that enhanced my sailing.

Chris Martinson

I can't comment on where to find the fitting you are looking for but have this comment.  When I was thinking about doing the same thing to my old tank; several people - including the OEM tank manufacturer, strongly recommended against it.  Their reasoning was that while it isn't obvious, at every fitting the tank is reinforced and adding a fitting stresses the tank which could lead to cracking etc.  I can't tell what year your boat is....in the end I replaced my tank without too much trouble.  It was last year and Catalina still had production tanks in stock.  In the end - venting wasn't my issue - the tank itself became permeated with the smell.......all fine now with the new tank.

Chris
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1989 HN 945

You shouldn't hear a grinding sound....something that isn't always mentioned is realigning your engine (check the engine mounts) after replacing the cutlass bearing........worth checking. 

Chris
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Hull 945

Stu:

I have to disagree with your opinion (which is sound when only considering the wiring diagram) on the blue sea switch and ACR....I agree that connecting the starting battery to the run down house bank isn't smart or a good idea.  Even without a generator to charge the batteries (in a normal or run down condition) - should my house bank be run down or dead....I wouldn't want to run the house load off of my starting battery.  It isn't made for that and wouldn't last too long....what I would do is start the engine with my in tact starting battery  (protected by the switch to be isolated from the dead bank) to run the engine and recharge  the house bank from the alternator if I was on a trip without my generator.....just another idea.

To add my 4 cents now - the reason I opted for the generator in lieu of a 3rd house battery was mostly the added weight and the versatility of the generator....while the generator is probably a little heavier it provides more versatility - I have the 2000 for the hot water heater and the microwave for the admiral.  I also used to carry an emergency jump start battery but don't need to now when I have the generator.



Chris

I'll put in my 2 cents.  I did some very rough calculations (using my high out put alternator) which showed I would need to run my engine TOO long for  my taste and wear and tear on the engine to keep my batteries charged to run the refrig and I couldn't comfortably use the microwave.  My current system has worked for the past few years- the fact that this has been WORKING is the real proof.....I use the Honda 2000 generator for hot water, my microwave and to recharge my batteries mostly for the refrig (Grunet electric refer).  This works great, I can keep the batteries charged to above 50% and monitor this with the link 10 system.  Also - I think very important....I installed the blue sea battery switch with the "isolator" which charges my starting battery and house bank of 2 batteries but also isolates them.  The isolatin without having to change the switch makes like less stressful for me.  It has off/on/combine so all I do is turn the switch to on and don't worry about it.....if I need to combine the house bank for starting I can switch it to combine.  No worries about running down my starting battery while sailing or at anchor.

I keep the generator in the cabin with an empty tank (be careful filling the generator tank -  it runs along time on a tank...I usually fill it 1/3 only so it runs dry before I put it away) and the gas cans in my dingy.  I need to turn off the eco switch for the microwave but otherwise it is very quiet!

One last thing - I also use a wireless thermometer (the "outside" sensor  in the refer) and the read out in the galley - this tells me things are working and helps guide me on non generator days or trips when to turn the refer on and off.

Chris

Mike:

thank you for your response......I looked on the panel and there wasn't a breaker next to the switch but down one and I did reset it but it only reset the nav/com circuit.  The pump wasn't running but 30 seconds and I did try about 2 hours later with no luck.

Chris

I know that this info is probably somewhere but in a quick search I couldn't find it.  Does anyone know the model of the Macerator pump on the MK I and if it is fused somewhere?  I am leaving for a family sailing vacation with the family early Thursday morning and this weekend my macerator pump stopped working....it didn't sound clogged or jambed and I didn't have time to do an exhaustive search.  It was running then my bilge pump went on it just stopped.  I opened up the panel and saw the switch but no fuse.  I am hoping there is a fuse somwhere or a reset on the pump.....anyone know?  I will try the reverse but it really doesn't seem like a clog.

Any help would be really appreciated....leaving for the 3 hour trek to the boat Wed evening.....thank you


Chris Martinson
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1989 Hull 9445

My previous boat had the spartight and I would not recommend it if you lift your mast every year....unless you meticulously install it with the bond breakers which I understand is very hard.  The O'Day user website had a string on this and the consensus was it wasn't recommended if you often lift the mast out often.  My mast on my O'Day would NOT come out when I tried to have the mast lifted because the bond breaker wasn't installed properly and I gave up....never did get it our before I sold it.

Chris
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Hull number 945 1989

My hull number is 945, year 1989 and am wondering if the strainer was standard or an add on.....I think I've looked every where under the galley sink (when searching for a leak in either the drain or faucet the previous owner supposedly upgraded but never found) and have never seen a strainer on the fresh water system? 

Any thoughts?

Chris
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Hull 945 1989

I must have too much on my starboard side as I have a slight starboard list.  Regarding the water tanks....having read Peggies book on tanks - she suggests that you keep the water tanks full not empty to avoid growth in the tanks and hoses.  I used to keep the water tanks empty and had a smell issue but once I started keeping them full - no issues....but I sail a little slower

Chris Martinson
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Hull 945 1989

To address a statement - you don't need to remove the wheel to use the emergency tiller.  However - I posted this awhile ago....it is VERY difficult to use the emergency tiller in  anything but calm waters and that usually isn't when things happen.  After using mine - several of us had to take turns over about an hour and half period - a combination of arms and legs - there is no real leverage....I made a "vertical" extension.  I drilled a hole in a piece of hardwood (poplar is what I used) and took the edges off with a router so it is smooth.  I put the extented wood tiller over the metal pipe emergency extension and have much more leverage.  I don't remember the exact lenght but I cut it just short enough so it stores under the cushion across the rear of the aft cabin.

Chris Martinson
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Hull 945

I acknowledge that I am challenged in using the data base and this answer is probably in there - when you are facing the front of the engine looking towards the stern - what direction does the water pump impeller shaft turn - counter or clockwise?  I am trying a trick a mechanic told me - find the direction that the shaft turns and bend the fins back in the opposite direction and put a wire tie around it.  Install the impeller and then cut the wire tie and you'll have evenly spaced bent fins.  Supposed to make the installation much easier.

Thank You,

Chris Martinson
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Hull 945
M25XP

Before I start....I took the mast head off my mast to clean it and try to get the sheaves to work better.  My masthead has a sheave, plate that separates the sheaves and then the other sheave.

Has anyone had an issue with the sheaves in the mast head binding against the plate?  I took the sheaves and plates out and cleaned them and without the plate in the sheaves move easily.  However - once I put the plate in they seem to bind.  I found a shop to plane these plates down - he didn't have the thinner material in stock and I go in May 4th....hopefully the thinning of the plates will fix the problem.  I briefly thought of leaving the plate out but am concerned about the halyards jumping the sheave or getting jambed in between the sheaves.....any thoughts on this?

Thanks

Chris Martinson
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1989 Hull 945

A little off topic - my emergency rudder connection (cap on top of the rudder post) has a crack in it due to corrosion between the SS bolt and the alum post....PO or someone didn't seperate metals.  I assume that the rudder is connected structurally to the steering mechanism and this bolt on top only holds the cap on....can anyone confirm this?  Also - the cap is "welded" pretty tightly to the post...any good ideas on how to get it off without damaging the rudder post?

thanks

Chris
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1989 hull 945