Messages

Where is the glow plug button?

On Shamrock it's not a button, it's in the key switch, turn the key past the first stop, like cars used to start, hold for a few seconds (max 10 seconds).  That also bypasses the low oil pressure alarm and the fuel pump will run.
A friendly suggestion, take some time this winter and peruse the operator's manual.
Hope this helps,
Jim

FWIW.  The starting procedure is a little different from other boats.  For that reason I've written down the steps/instructions in the event that someone else may need to run her in my absence.
 

After boat has been sitting a couple days, engine start is a little sluggish. Usually takes two pushes

You say sluggish, does that mean the engine is turning over slowly?  Turning over slowly sounds like poor battery or poor connection.  If the motor turns over good enough but takes some cranking, my guess would be fuel, a small leak or air leak that drains down over time.

Think you are right about the sender.  When I first got Shamrock the sender was bad.  I took it out and matched with a generic one at the boat parts store, auto supply may have the same.  That was about 20 years ago.
hope that helps,
Jim

I would also suggest adding a pair of folding mast steps about 4 feet from the top of the mast.  It's so difficult to work on anything at the top of the mast from a bosuns chair that only goes up so high.
Did that on Shamrock and it helps a lot.
Jim

Look for a sea cock in the locker under the head sink connected to the toilet supply hose. Open the sea cock and that will allow water to flow to the toilet.

And close the valve again.  There's a possibility of water siphoning to the toilet.  May be enough to sink the boat, so I've been told.
Jim

I think it's a torex t-25.  On Shamrock they were filled with something white so I wasn't able to verify.  You may need to dig that out to get a good fit.
Hope that helps
Jim

So you change both fuel filters as soon as you notice that the engine doesn't reach max RPM, or just one of the filters?  What is your set up?  My primary is 15 microns nominal, and I assume the secondary (engine) is 10 microns nominal.

My primary is Racor R15s if my alleged memory is correct that's 10 microns the spin-on secondary isn't as fine I believe.  In the past I've tried only changing only the primary and still had to change the secondary.  For reasons I don't understand.  So I just change both.  First the primary, run the engine, then the secondary.  Bleeding as necessary.
Jim

Any reason why I should change it to the correct Diesel lift pump?

My thought is "if it's not broke don't fix it".  As has been mentioned here before the fuel tank is above the engine creating low demands on the pump. I don't carry a spare.  I do have a list, from here, of replacement pumps.  If I had to replace the pump on a cruise, I believe that it would be easy enough to get a replacement from an auto parts store or tractor supply.
As for following the recommended maintenance schedule. I do, and always redo at the end of the season even if maintenance was done during the season.  I could be mistaken, but I like storing with fresh clean fluids.  One exception is fuel filters,  I change them as required or at the start of a long cruise.  As required meaning the engine fails to reach full RPM.
Jim

My table has the wiggle problem. What size is that clamp you made? Thanks.

Like I said the clamp was made from stuff on hand.  If I remember correctly, it was a clamp for a 1 inch tube a large cable tie and some rope.  Since then I've replaced that with a small, maybe 3 inch, shelf support that I drilled and tapped into the compression post mounted under the table.  A small slit into the compression post vinyl cover and it's unseen.  Works very well, if I were to want to move the table it would only require removing one screw.

I would post a picture but it's on my phone and during one of the alleged updates I can no longer send from my phone to PC.  I hate the alleged updates, often creates problems for me.
Jim 

Last week staying on the boat over on Catalina Island, we woke up to the front hatch being closed.  When I opened it, it immediately closed--any suggestions on how to fix this problem?

Chuck,
Don't remember exactly but like all the hatches and ports with friction hinges there's small allen set screws at one end of the hinge, possibly under some trim.  Tighten both hinges a little at a time till you're happy with the set.  Only tighten a very little at a time, a sixteenth of a turn, and the screws should not have much torque.  Only a little more than snug. 
In a rough anchorage you still may have to prop up the hatch to stay half open.
Hope this helped,
Jim

Patches,
Thank you for sharing your great cruising experience.  It's great to hear cruising stories that don't include major break downs or near death experiences.  Just enjoyable and rewarding sailing, as nearly all of mine are. 
Jim

A heat gun to soften the glue and a putty knife to lift it off.
Could it be double-sided tape by chance?

Agreed.  Maybe a little acetone to soften and clean old glue.  I buy packs of plastic putty knives from the box stores.  Find less chance of scratching.
Jim

Guys : My "Fun Meter" is mounted under the companionway abutted against the teak on the bottom. I call the inclinometer the "Fun Meter" because the higher the number the more "Fun" you are having!!!   

My inclinometer story is on a sail with some nonsailors one of the young boys was looking a little worried about the boat motion.  I had him monitor the inclinometer and to let me know if it got to 30 told him that would be a new record.  He was disappointed that it didn't go half that far.  Everyone had an enjoyable sail.
Jim

That's an aftermarket part.  Not something put on at the factory so there may be lots of variety on what we have on our boats.  May be on with mounting tape or a couple of screws depending on the brand. 
Jim

I added a label underneath it with the hours where the original stopped. I add the two together to get total engine hours.

Good Idea. Would also note in the maintenance log. I'm thinking if it were necessary to add a Hobbs gage (hour meter) I would add 2, the extra one would be resettable and I would zero it at fuel fills.  They aren't very expensive or very large.  It's possible that they make one with a dual function.
Jim

When I took off the emergency tiller plate I could see that the top of the rudder shaft was moving about ½ to ¾ inch.

A couple of questions.  Was the movement vertical or horizontal?  Except for the noise, did the boat steer normally? 

Shamrock (also a MKII) has a bearing/seal with screws in the top to tighten.  If it were mine I would verify that all was as the factory intended before any redesigning.  That is no broken or loose parts.
Jim