Messages

Thanks Ron. Will do. I reconnected the wires as they had been connected to the original switch, but I may have been assuming too much there.

So I decided to change my ignition switch today. For about a month it has been doing nothing in the glow plug position, but everything else seemed to be working and the connections were all good, so I figured the switch was finally bad after 25 years. I got a new 3 position switch and connected it, and now it works in the glow plug position, but was getting nothing in the "on" position. The engine would start, but only if I pressed the ignition button while holding the key in the glow plug position.

Anyway, after trying to make sure the connections were all good and the starter fuse holder was ok, it looks like I'm now not getting any power to the instrument panel at all. It will still start in the glow plug position, but no alarm, and none of the other gauges show anything unless I'm holding the key to the glow plug position? Any ideas? I feel like I'm making things worse every time I try to troubleshoot.

Thanks.

Ron, I used #1 Permatex. Is there something I should be worried about re: Permatex vs. Locktite?

Replaced my Oberdorfer raw water pump this weekend.  When removing the old one, I had no problem (with some help of PB Blaster) getting the nuts off the top two studs, but the bottom two nuts were corroded badly and fused to the studs. Luckily the bottom two studs came out cleanly -- they couldn't be re-used, though.  Replaced them with M6 bolts (10.9 grade) that I had cut the heads off. Used some Permatex to make sure the new homemade studs stayed in place.  Tested the new pump and it seems to have done the trick.

Thanks all!  Great advice.  I'll let you know how it goes. -Charlie

I'm in the process of rebedding the port vented stanchion because -- surprise --  it leaks.  The PO's solution seems to have been to stuff the sliding cabinet above the nav station with rags to absorb the moisture.  I've read the FAQ's and previous posts on the topic, and I thought I had a pretty good idea of what I was facing before I removed the stanchion -- but when I removed it I noticed that one of the holes in the base of the stanchion (forward, inboard) had a lot of rust and pitting around it, and the screw that was in that hole also had a lot of rust and pitting. In fact, the thread had pretty much disappeared in some places.

My question is, if I clean off the rust from the stanchion base and clean out the pitting, and get new screws and clean out and redrill the deck holes and rebed the stanchion correctly, will it not leak, or does the pitting around this hole mean I need to replace the stanchion if I want the leak to stop?

Thanks!

-Charlie Brown
1988 #888