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Messages - Meerkata

#1
This question mostly for Stu...
What are the modifications needed to boom, to move to a two-line reef system.
Thanx,
Jim
Meerkat, 2003, sail 1649
#2
Related issue...what do you use to haul a person/body onboard from the water?
We use a snatch lock on the end of the boom, run down to a snatch lock at a station base, then to the jib winch. Setup can be deployed in 30 seconds, and is very reliable, can lift a giants weight out of the water.
Jim
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Looking for Edson bracket
April 29, 2012, 07:29:21 AM
I have a complete instrument pod available. Came off a 2003. I don't know your dimensional need for E equipment. Mine is for 1" conduit guard.
Jim
1649
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel tank cleanout port
April 29, 2012, 07:16:59 AM
Two questions...
When drilling and cutting holes in tank, how do I stop debris from falling into tank?

What are dimensions of locker hatch cutout, and where purchased?

Thank,
Jim Cowan
1649
#5
Main Message Board / Bow Sprit
November 02, 2011, 04:24:02 PM
Has anyone built a bow sprit? (for use with an A-sail).
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Propane Refit
November 01, 2011, 01:48:58 PM
Has anyone built a propane locker? I have a friend with a Cat 30 who needs one for a 10 pound bottle. WestMArine is like $400 too much.
Jim-of-Meerkat
#7
Noise is probably caused by turning prop. 35B manual says no need to put engine in gear, but it does stop shaft from turning while under sail.
Hint, you can look at shaft (aft of engine) under aft birth to see if it is rotating when you hear the noise.
Also, if you sail with a spinacker, you definately will want the engine stopped, else you will sooner or later wrap the lazysheet onto the shaft.
Jim-of-Meerkat
#8
Main Message Board / Re: stuck table
November 01, 2011, 01:34:28 PM
I have a 2003 C34 MK II Number 1649
I quirk which works to drop my table is to turn it 90 degrees clockwise. It slides up or down easily. Turn it back to normal position to re-lock.
Jim-of-Meerkat
#9
Have installed Raymarine and really like it. Any additional equipment is easily added with very little set-up knowledge. Electronically speaking, it becomes seemless. Now it is wireless capable.

When buying, I suggest thinking ahead to where you might be adding additional equipment, and make sure it is available, cost is what you would pay for the addition(s), and stay within one manufacturer. For interest, when I bought my first chartplotter, it was relatively inexpensive. The next item I wanted was radar. And guess what, it was available, but not for the chartplotter which was still very new. That is why I suggest to stay with a make such as Raymarine which has everything compatible. But be aware that even older (if you are looking at used) Raymarine may not be compatible with today's newest models in all respects.

Jim, Meerkata 1649
#10
My heater is an Espar Airtronic D5.
Jim
Meerkata 1649
#11
Main Message Board / Carbon Monoxide and Propane Sniffers
November 21, 2008, 03:27:27 PM
I have recently installed a diesel heater, and decided that I should get properly equipped with both CO and propane sniffers.
Then I read the very recent info from members, which of course totally confirmed my decision.
What I dont know is what to buy. Are household CO sniffers good enough, or should I get a "marine grade" for quite a few $$ more?
On propane monitors, are there any that are better, or does anyone have preferrance(s)
Thanx
Jim
Meerkata 1649
#12
I have an 8 ft ss pole from Garhaur, includes davit for motor lifting, etc. Mounts on the transom, and comes with one rail anchor/fitting.
Anchoring is quite sufficient for the radar, but is a bit weak for the davit; could use one more diagonal support to the rail.
If I was buying again, I would get the ten-foot version pole, as radar should be higher to protect people on the front deck from radar emmissions.
Note that radar is quite good with modern electronics, and I doubt whether a self-leveling device would add to the effectiveness. Maybe it would work better in really rough seas.
Incidentally, I have an a mast-mount bracket available if you want to look at alternatives.
#13
While on the subject of the windlass, can anyone tell me how best to join 2 pieces of chain and have them fit through the windlass? I could try those connecting links with the threaded piece in the middle, but I fear that these links might jam/break a cog on the windlass. I could take the 2 pieces of chain to a welder, but that means carting a whole lot of steel to and frow to the welding shop. Plus an hourly rate for the welding.
My question is, can I safely use those expansion links (above), and do they have enough strength to hold the boat in all weather conditions?
Thanks, Jim
#14
Main Message Board / Fuel overflow
August 10, 2008, 10:18:36 AM
On filling my tank, I get an overflow when the tank guage shows 3/4 full. Do any of the add-on surge protectors really work? I dont want to install one, and then find that the same problem continues. On 2003 model, the overflow hose is at the same level as the tank neck. Any ideas on how to re-plumb, or use an in-line surge protector?
1649 Jim
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Filters
August 10, 2008, 10:10:26 AM
I am thinking of running a second primary Racor parallel to the existing one. I think I would get a Westmarine 500GSS2, plumb with a valve on either side and that way I can easily shift from one primary to the other, giving time to do a filter change. I understand that these filters are before the lift pump.
I am using 20 micron in the primary at this time.
All said, it still does not stop the secondary from clogging with 2 micron particles.
Jim