Messages

Steve,

I have Travelers as well, and I had a similar issue when my renewal came up this past August.  I spent some time talking to my agent and found that due to Irene and Sandy and the associated losses (from our slip I can still see a few boats abandoned across the salt marsh at the edge of the tree line), Travelers and other insurers were paying significant attention to boats with an agreed hull value significantly higher than the BUC Used Price Guide.  At that time, my agreed hull value remained where I had set it years ago when I bought her, such that the agreed value was now 25% above the high end of the BUC range.  I had looked at Boat US previously but never moved since the savings would have been minimal given their requirement for a new survey.  I checked with Boat US again this year and found that they now quoted a premium higher than Travelers!  The agent checked a few other insurers, but we did not find a huge bargain.  I ended up reducing the agreed hull value to only 10% above the top end of BUC guide and ended up in what I consider a pretty good place - $700/yr with a $1000 deductible.

I hope that's helpful.

Mert

After I asked this question originally in 2009, I did buy a set of the Garhauer racks.  I haved used them for three seasons and am quite satisfied.  They are sturdy, and I have had no problem with a 2 person, 13 foot, SOT kayak.  When we race, I drop the kayak a the slip, and ease the L-shaped bar back along the lifelines.  A sheet has occasionally gotten caught on them, but it has always been easy to free.  If seas are heavy or wind is high such that heel is difficult to manage, I move the kayak to the deck and fold in the racks.  I find the value of getting the kayak off the deck in most conditions well worth the 100 boat dollars.

Mert

I am at the final stages of what has been a long decision-making process as to whether to switch props and to what make and model.  Comments on this board have been very helpful.  Thanks to all.  I've gotten quotes for my final contenders, and in response to my request to Flexofold for the discount referenced in the advertisement in the store on this site, I have been told that "the price it as it is."  I am curious as to whether anyone has purchased a Flexofold prop recently, and if so whether you received a similar response. 

Thanks,
Mert

I did the traveler car upgrade last spring and the mainsheet block upgrade a year or two ago. When I called Garhauer about the mainsheet blocks, Guido asked whether I had done the traveler car upgrade.  He suggested that since the traveler was on my near term list, I go with separate single blocks instead of a new fiddle block in the mainsheet block upgrade and leave the old fiddle in place until I did the traveler car upgrade.  I went with that approach and upgraded all the mainsheet blocks but the fiddle, and then replaced the fiddle block with singles when I did the traveler car.  As I recall, Guido noted two value points - spreading the load across the larger traveler car and eliminating the large fiddle stacked with another block for line of sight reasons.  I didn't "see" the value in the second point at the time, but when the dodger is down it does help a bit.  Mark's description of the path of the mainsheet above is what I have in place.  The combination of the two upgrades has made a world of difference.  I don't have a picture at home, but I can get one the next time I visit the boat.

Mert

There can't be too many 2004 C34's named Ithaka, so that has to be Tom Lanzilli's old boat.  It sat uncovered here in Guilford for one winter (properly blocked by Brownell) and then went to the dealer - a Tartan/C&C dealer in NJ as I recall - upon launch in the Spring.  Tom traded it for a friend's 2006 (I think) C36 when his friend bought a new Tartan 4300.  In the 3-way deal the dealer ended up with Ithaka.  The word was that the dealer would let it go pretty cheap, so I thought about it a little while, but I happen to favor the mk I's and the fin keel.  It's odd that it's been uncovered as Tom had a full fairclough cover.  I'm pretty sure Ithaka was on the hard at GYC last winter, so it may be that the dealer took ownership in Aug '09, but didn't cradle it improperly until this winter.  Even so, the issues are likely the same as is the need to check carefully for deformation.  Ithaka was definitely well cared for while Tom owned it.

Mark,

I installed a 1.25" x 6' track a couple of years ago for my whisker pole.  I don't see the need for 1.5" track.  I purchased the track from Garhauer and had them make me a ring car for it as well.  Very solid work and way less expensive than anyone else.  I went with 6' for a few reasons: 1) I wasn't planning on storing my pole on the mast (if you planning to store it on the mast, it will be much easier to install a much longer track to allow you to slide the mast end of the pole up the mast while affixed to the car and then secure the outboard end to the base of the mast or a chock on deck right in front of the mast); 2) 6' more than covered the range of sails I expected to pole out (you'll want the pole in a horizontal position when in use, so consider how high your various headsail clews are); and 3) I installed it myself when the mast was stepped so I wanted to limit the number of tappings and the height of the work.  Since then, I've decided I do, in fact, want to store the pole on the mast, so I am regretting that I didn't install a longer track originally.  Instead, I flip the usual process and lower the car with the inboard end of the pole attached and then swing the outboard end up to a mast ring I installed up the mast.  The process is cumbersome and even using the topping lift to guide the end, this is tough and not viable in any significant seas.  I don't recommend it, and it is only a stopgap measure for me.  I will change to a longer track when I next pull the stick.  Hope that helps.

Mert

I cut the holes for our cockpit speakers with a Dremel tool and its 1/8" multi-purpose cutting bit.  The packaging says it's good for fiberglass, and it worked quite well.  It threw off lots of dust so I set up a shop vac very close to the cut to draw the dust before it got all over the place.  With a narrow nozzle on the end of the shop vac hose I was able to get enough air flowing through the cut so there was surprisingly little dust on the back side of the cut as well.

Mert

Thanks, Miles.  Starting with a small bit should give me a little room to align the hole to an appropriate position inside.  I'll try a guide too.  I'm hoping I can get a reasonable assessment of clearance by measuring off nearby stanchion bolts.

Thanks again,
Mert

As someone who started racing just a few years ago, I agree that the best way to learn is by doing alongside experienced racers.  Reading helps, but watching and doing are much better.  The most fun I've had racing has been crewing for a friend in the Off Soundings series.  We race a J/92 against J/105s, J/109s and Rod Johnstone in his new J/95.  Once you try it, you're hooked.

Non-Spinnaker Wednesday night beer can races provided a low pressure way to get started, and my first year I made sure I always had a more experienced racer onboard to check my decisions.  It took a year+ before I felt I had the confidence and judgment to move into the group vying for the first few places across the starting line - and absent a good crew, I still back off pretty quickly.  Go out and practice.  Pick a buoy as an upwind or downwind mark and practice your roundings.  Sight a line off a buoy and tell yourself you have to cross it with good speed in exactly 2 minutes. 

As for crew, we are OK in the NS fleet with 4, and we've managed our asymmetric with 4 though I'd rather have at least 5.  We had a couple of Wednesday nights last year with just 2, and we got by in the NS fleet, but we stayed clear of the starting fray and dumped a lot of wind along the way.  These are not small boats, be careful and conservative as you learn - leave plenty of room.  As for symmetrical spinnakers, I don't have experience on a C34 as I'm just doing that rigging now - I defer to everyone else.

The PHRF ratings are done by local/regional sailing associations, and you can likely find the association for your area by asking anyone who races at your club/marina - or try http://www.ussailing.org/phrf/phrfcon.asp 

You might also consider a North U seminar.

Good luck; enjoy the fun!

Miles,

I noticed in your comments in the early part of this thread and in the lower center of your 24:1 mainsheet picture (another project added to my list) that you have u-bolts at the rail amidships for your afterguy.  I like that approach, but after staring at the inside of the hull-deck joint, I'm not sure how to best fit backing plates, nuts, etc inside the hull.  Did you have to angle the u-bolts inboard to provide clearance from the hull under the deck for backing plates?  Also, any recommendations on the size/strength of the u-bolts?  Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mert

We also have never had netting.  We have a rule that everyone 12 and under wear life jackets on the docks, on deck, and in the cockpit.  (Our club and Connecticut also have similar requirements.)  The jackets can come off when feet hit the cabon sole.  We've focused on teaching the right way to move around on deck, and either Nicole or I followed them around alot as they learned.  We do supplement with tethers and cockpit confinement when things get a little rough.  Our kids are now 8 and 6, and it's great to see them doing things right.  I strongly endorse letting the kids pick the vest as well.  Scooby Doo and Dora the Explorer were great finds.

By the way, a friend does use netting on his J92.  He installed it when his kids were very small, and has since kept it forward of the stays to give the foredeck guy an easier time controlling sails when we race shorthanded.  Having done the foredeck on a cold, wet day during Off Soundings, I can say that it helps.

Thanks for trying, Ken.  There is a pretty good end-to-end constant diameter splice video on YouTube.

Installed three Garhauer 36-MH sheaves last year with great results.  A simple and easy project - once the stick was down, of course.

I certainly apologize for any potential disservice.  I actually thought it might help future readers if I raised my questions about rigging for symmetrical spinnakers on this thread, given the title and the helpful comments from last year.  I guess my follow-up question on the tack pennant strayed a bit.

References to my current A-spinnaker rigging were only meant to describe how I hope to do double duty with my A-sail tack line as the S-spinnaker foreguy, and to see if there are strong preferences as to attachment points and methods for aft turning blocks for spin sheets. 

I'm also interested in whether those who fly S-spinnakers find that they need (or prefer) both sheets and afterguys attached to each clew along with midship afterguy attachment points or whether a reasonable level of performance and control can be had with one line on each clew.  I've sailed other boats with S-spinnakers rigged both ways, but I have limited experience with symmetrical spinnakers on a C34.  I expect I'll wait to decide on midship afterguy attachment points until our crew gets more experience with the S-spinnaker.

Thanks for the help.

Thanks, Ron.  I appreciate your help.  My tack line for the A-sail also runs through a block attached to the bow roller ('87), but without the pennant.  Do you find the pennant helps?  Rather than running the line back along the base of the stanchions, I ran it through a block attached to a folding pad eye on the foredeck (near the deadlight) and then through fairleads on the cabin top through a cam cleat near the starboard cabin top winch in case I need the winch.  My mainsheet is on that winch as well, so another small winch like you have might be the way to go.  Has anyone added purchase to the tack control line so there's no need to worry about a winch?  When I rig for the S-spinnaker, I plan to use this A-spinnaker tack line as the foreguy, take it off the roller and run it up to the pole from the foredeck block.

The carabiners sound like an easy way to attach the turning blocks to the stern cleats.  Thanks.

With my question about the u-bolts I meant to ask whether those in the fleet who regularly fly S-spinnakers see it necessary to rig for sheets run to the stern cleats and guys run to a midship point on both clews of the S-spinnaker or whether one can get away with one line on each clew?

Thanks again.