Messages

Ron doesn't it matter on the routing of the charging wires?  My PO routed mine up to the battery switch so with that I assume that I need to have the battery selector in the ALL position to charge them?

It's on my list of upgrades but not sure when i'm going to get to it.   

I guess i'm the only one that used the set that they originally sent me.  I finally finished installing mine on the port side last weekend after having the starboard one on for about 3 months.  I removed the nuts from 3 of the screws and loosened up two more, just enough to pry up the end and slide it on the track.  I had quite a timme and became quite the contorsionist to get into the locker and perform the work on the port side.  That's what really took me soo long; I had to strech for the three months!   

I ordered the line online which is on its way and I should finally be finished with this project this weekend! 

If this works anything like the upgraded traveler system and rigid boom vang I'll be in heaven!!! 

Terry, thanks for your report!  I was considering using them on the traveler line ends (where I'm using a bowline) AFTER buying the splicing kit and trying three times to get the hang of it.  I'll try it again but maybe with some Tequila shots this time. 
Or maybe I'll just send the project up to waterdog.  It's going into hibernation time up north so maybe he's looking for a few extra projects!

Terry i'd be curious on your comments on this when you get them installed.  I have too been looking at these to address a couple of lines on my boat.  I have tried the slicing bought the kit and while I used to be able to do it some years ago, I no longer seem to be able to get it.  In my area if I want someone to do a splice i have to travel 60 miles, not worth it from that standpoint.
Post up your findings! 

don't let all the others scare you!   

My head unit fried and they no longer carry those the upgrade is $650.  I'm curious if anyone has removed a SL80 headunit that is taking up space??
Not sure i want to or ready to swap out to the raymarine STs
Thanks!

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4149.0.html  Try this link i think that is what you are refering to.  Also i've used simple green in the past and it removes a lot of the odor to a degree.  I still have the fuel tank platform that I believe the only way i'm going to remove that smell is to remove and install a new platform.  I think it's been soo saturated over the years of a leaky tank it's the only way to really remove the odor emitting from that area.

Mike, rigid vang    BIG improvement.  I also removed the front most boom block once i installed my rigid vang and noticed no difference.  But my blocks are original and could use replacing (next purchase?)   
Now that the motorcycle, car and work projects are done  i can now focus on another boat project!  So I finally ordered my upgraded traveler last weekend it's supposed to be here tomorrow.  I can only imagine how much nicer that'll be if the rigid vang was ANY indication.  Also have the adjustable sheet system.  Garhauer  pretty much 'is da bomb!'.   

Harken manual says to flush with warm soapy water and then rinse.  as they said above they recomend not to use any lubricants.  You don't mention the extent of the friction or binding, is it on every wind of the drum or only at one end ie furling or unfurling.

I had a problem that has been happening on mine where it wouldn't roll all the way out when unfurling.  It would roll out like a greased pig until i needed the last two turns and then it would be harder than, well an ungreased pig.    I had thought that my problem was the top swivel/drum but didn't STOP to think it out.  pulled down the sail and inspected.  Everything worked fine   cleaned the top drum and removed all off the corrosion on the stainless connectors, so that parts good for another 10 years!  

Raised the sail back up and of course the wind started blowing so it made taking it up twice as hard a it should have been
Rolled it back up and the same thing then I saw that the line on the drum was getting jammed.  I furled it back up and looked inside the drum.  I noticed that there were several wraps around the drum sitting inside still wound aroud the drum.  

My resolution untie the knot from the line through the top of the drum and unwrap the extra wraps and retie.  Tested to ensure that i had enough in the drum to wrap the entire jib up and it works like new.

Not sure this is your problem but thougt i'd share my issue.

Another one bites the dust.  Euro plugs picked up at Radio Shack inserted, cleaned fuze and "BOOM BABY" it starts!   so solonoid and wire harness upgrade behind me! 
It was tough it was blowing like stink here today and about 85 degrees!  Maybe tomorrow.
Thanks all!   

Thanks again!  I checked the fuse when i first had the crossed wires and it was good.  I did not check it on the second go round!  Good reminder Mike/Jon.  The touch safe strips I saw yesterday at radio shack when i was looking for some parts for my motorcycle HID headlight project but they were the smallest ones.  I went to lowes and they didn't have them.  I may either order from McMaster or look at a local elecrtric shop to see. 

Thanks! 

Thanks everyone!  A good list to get started with. 

Jon, i pulled them apart, you're entirely correct in that they could be damaged!  Replaced the new leads to the same terminal they came off of. 

Stu/Steve warning noted!  i've got the wires to replace the entire run just need the time prior to going out on the water.   

Good news is I was able to get the Garhauer rigid vang installed yesterday! At least that's out of the way, now i need to be able to start up the engine, ensure that the wiring doesn't burn down the boat and I think we are good.  with that project at least.

thanks again!  i'll post up after i get a chance to inspect fruther.

so Sunday's project was to install the glow plug solenoid and also check the rubber wire harness plugs. 

I completed the solenoid install and got the engine started.  All good!  (So to disclose a novice mistake) the first take on the wiring from the starter to the soloeniod i had the wires on the wrong post, Forgot I had it mounted upside down so change the wires around and it started.  Then came the engine panel inspection and wire harness plug inspection.  As mentioned before the red and orange wires at the key switch were burning so I cut them back and attached a new set of terminals and re-attached.  Then checked the plugs on both ends and they look pretty good (only 600 hours on engine so not a lot of use).
I then went back up to start the engine and it won't turn over the starter won't turn.  I can hear the solenoid still click when the key is turned to glow but when I press the start button i just get a buzzer sounding off.  I tested the started soleniod with the old screw driver across the terms and that turns it over. 
And BTW, the local auto parts store now gets about $23 for the ford soleniod.

I know this is a shot in the dark but any ideas?  I've checked all the connections and they seem to be all still attached. 

Thanks!

Stu thanks i agree, from the outside they look perfect.  I've been to WM and got gouged on the replacement wires going to do the run that Capt Al outlined in his upgrade section for his old 34.  So now if I can get some time away from work it's the re-wire and solenoid project.  I also have to replace all the wires running at the engine panel as well.   
Thanks! 
Mark

[TOO LATE!!!!!!!]

Battery Charger:
Not sure yet, i'm looking for inverter/charger to replace it but don't want to dump my a$$.  Thinking about a used Heart 1000 that is local for $100 with the 2000 panel.

Wire Harness:
Not sure to the extent on the damage on the wire harness at the engine panel.  It is burnt so I am leaning now towards the Hot wire you mention.  I haven't had a chance to check behind the panel to the "wire plug" and in the port lazertte there is a divider protecting the panel.  So this weekend or if I get off one of these days early i can check it.  The more i think of it it sounds like the hot wire.  The lower harness plugs by engine are perfect. Also trying to get ahold of Seaward to get the replacement engine panel while i'm at it. 

Wires:
TOO LATE!!!!!!!     I forked over my a$$ to WestMarine yesterday. :banghead  So I could have used some of that #12 Blue but you told me too late.

I'm also going to look to Seaward for the interior panel so that site may still come in handy in the future.  I seem to have a hot short somewhere in my system.  When i have the cabin lights and the running lights on together the circut breakers get hot to the touch.  I found one thread where it sounds as if those two circuts share a common ground.  So i'll check that first.

So at the end of the day Sunday i walked away from with the boat with three projects and none of them completed!!! 
 

I ended up loosing my battery charger  (Charles 30) and my wiring harness (engine) at least at the cockpit/engine panel side this weekend.   
I was also looking up the wiring harness/Solenoid upgrades.  Found Capt Al's and stumbled upon his newest toy.  Where does that guy find all of the time to do those projects, I'm guessing not tied up with soccer, softball and those "kids" sports.  That new rear scoop looks really nice. 
Anyway I bought the wire today for the upgrade from West Marine (ouch) and guess I'll be picking up the Ford Solenoid that'll leave the resale value to Jon!