Messages

I purchased mine from Snap-on online.  A little expensive, but very high quality:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=3599&group_ID=405&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

-Rocco

Mike,

I just completed a new Raymarine C80 radar installation last season.  The supplied 15m cable was approx 2 m too short so I purchased a 10m extension cable and wired as followed:

1- My MKII has a deck stepped mast and I did not want to feed the radar cable down the compression post and out through the (too small) exit at the bottom anymore.  I've also had problems with junction box connections failing in the past.  I purchased an extra ray-dome data connector from Raymarine and fished the supplied radar cable up through the bottom of the mast to the ray-dome and cut the cable to the proper length so that the factory connector sat comfortably at the bottom of the mast.  The extra was trimmed at the ray-dome end, necessitating the new connector for the internal ray-dome connection.

2- I then cut the 10m extension cable and fished it through the base of the mast and the compression post back to the bilge area below the fuel tank in the aft cabin.  The other end was fished through the pedestal guard to the same location.  I very carefully spliced the extension cable back together again, leaving about 5 feet of extra cable for any future needs.  The splicing is tedious, but not anything too difficult. The splice has multiple layers all with adhesive heat shrink tubing all covered by a final large adhesive heatshrink over the entire splice.

3- I also replaced my pedsetal guard with a 1.25" which has a lot more room for wiring.

Now I have a connector at the Navpod on the pedestal guard for the C80, and a connector at the base of the mast to connect/disconnect the ray-dome when the mast is stepped with no junction boxes in between.  I'm hoping this proves to be a reliable setup and so far it has worked fine.  I did confer with Raymarine before starting and they saw no problem extending the cable in the way that I did.

Hope this helps,
Rocco

I replaced mine with the newer coated screws as well.  They are also available online (P/N 817-3.5):
http://www.edsonintl.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=507

-Rocco

There is a kit available from Maxwell to modify the VC500 to a VW500 for chain rope (part number:P71379).  Here is a link on catalinsa320.org with specifics and instructions:
http://www.catalina320.org/article.php?story=20050312123201892&mode=print

Hope this helps,
Rocco

Bruce,

As Mike described, removing the four engine control housing screws with the compass in the way can be challenging.  I could not budge mine at all due to corrosion; the body of the screws would twist but I could not break them loose even though they had sat with penetrating oil overnight (it's difficult to even know if the oil is getting to where it's needed 3" below the screw heads).  I finally resorted to my cordless drill with a very long (6") screwdriver bit, pressing down hard enough to ensure the bit would not slip on the screw head (the bit was at a slight angle to clear the compass) and giving a "full blast" reverse trigger on the drill.  Each of the four screws instantly broken loose and came right out.  Being able to apply heavy pressure downward and letting the torque of the drill break the screw loose did the trick.

Just a tip that worked for me.
-Rocco

As Tom mentioned, you may be able to install the sail hardware yourself.  The cost was $975 for all of the hardware and track.

Mike,  Yes, I was referring to the original sailcover with the C34 logo.  I'm located in CT.

-Rocco

Mike,

I installed the Tides Marine system on my MKII last spring and it has been great.  Combined with my upgraded masthead sheaves from garhauer, the main goes up as easy as can be and I'm able to tighten the luff up even with a full main.  The sail drops like a 500lb hammer though so you have to be a bit more careful.  Previously I would often end up with a batten twisted within it's pocket, but I have not had a single case of this since I upgraded the track due to the articulating batten slides; the main also flakes easier.  It's proven to be a simple and reliable system; I've been out in 40kts without any problems, the track is really tough. 
I had Kappa Sails attach the hardware to my main and they also measured and orderd the correct track.  I installed the track in about an hour; no problem at all (my mast was down, but it's also possible to install with the mast up).  The stack is a bit higher due to the more robust slides, but the factory sail cover accomodated the extra height with room to spare.  All in all, the second best upgrade I've done; the Garhauer EZ-Glide adjustable genoa cars being the first.  I also looked at Antal and Harken, but couldn't see a reason why I needed to spend 3X the money given the type of sailing I do.

Regards,
Rocco

Steve,

I just replaced my Fly-Back this spring (it failed over the winter) with a Charles SP5000 (30A).  The Charles is a three stage with Flooded-Gel-AGM option and a little known external temperature probe option as well (for GEL/AGMs).  I spoke with Catalina to ask what they do about fusing between the charger and batteries these days (my MK II #1347 had none but it is an ABYC recommendation) and was told that they are using the Charles charger now as well.

It has worked very well for me and fits in the space (under the trash can) very well.  It also includes a "drip shield" that mounts above the charger to protect it.  I ended up installing 40A circuit breakers between the charger and the batteries.

Regards,
Rocco

Earl,

I installed a PSS shaft seal on Geneva last year and did install the vent hose model (they no longer sell the none vented).  After much deliberation I ran the vent hose over the muffler through the bulkhead and then up into the port lazarette where it is well above the waterline and very well protected (it comes up at the very front of the lazarette beside the bulhead seperating the lazarette from the head compartment and is clamped there, well out of the way.  i've attched two photos showing the seal and vent hose over the muffler and the the hose routed up to the lazarette (under the head sink next to the fuel lines).

Hope this is helpful,
Rocco

Thanks for the replies.

Ray, where did you place the jumper in the electrical "cabinet" between the two buse bars, or from AC ground to engine block?

Thanks!
-Rocco

While installing a new battery charger I stumbled upon the fact that the AC GND and DC negative bus are not connected on my 97 MKII.  I was wondering if others have discovered a similar situation or know where the AC GND to DC Neg connection is located on their 34?  This connection should be made in only one location and there is no obvious jumper from the AC GND bus to DC Neg Bus in the electrical cabinet; I'm trying to detemrine if there is a fault in my electrical system or if this omission is common.

Thanks,
Rocco

I assumed caulk (my bad), as Ron said, I don't see what the difference in spray could be other than the "marine discount".

Doug,

I'm happy to be corrected, but I believe the difference is that the "home Depot" silicone sealants are typically acetic acid based (smell like vinegar) while marine grade silicone sealants are based on ammonia.  Not sure of the significance, but there is a chemical difference.

I do know that a tube of 5200 is $10.00 at Home Depot versus $18.00 plus at marine outlets and it is the same exact stuff, not that I can think of a way to use an entire tube of 5200 unless I was building the boat :-)

Regards,
Rocco

Joe,

Geneva had her factory 135 Genoa when we purchased her two years ago and given that most of our sailing is in and around Buzzards Bay (generally quite windy), we didn't feel the need to go to a 150.  I'm happy with that decision; we ultimately hope to equip with a cruising spinnaker and I'm also contemplately the addition of a whisker pole and track the next time we step the mast.  That being said, I don't think you can go wrong with the 150.

-Rocco

We also had Kappa replace both Main and Genoa last year.  We chose the Kappa Performance Dacron Main (4 full battens, 2 reef points) and the Reefable Genoa (135%).  I can't say enough on how great Clarke Bassett is to work with and how much we love our new sails.  Weather helm is significantly reduced and she is much better balanced (the old main was "blown out"); the difference in performance is amazing.  Our main has a full roach and we've had no problems coming across the backstay when coming about.  The lense foot gives you some of the characteristics of a loose footed sail; allowing you to tighten the foot for up-wind performance and loosen the foot for additional fullness when reaching (I'm sure someone else can do a much better job of explaining this).  The design of the reefable genoa gives us great performance when reefed, we handled 35 plus knot winds without any problems by reefing the genoa down to almost a storm jib and the unique design of the reefable genoa maintains it shape very well when reefing. 
We also added the Strong Battcar system when replacing the main, I had several questions about this system and Clarke Bassett explained everything very patiently.  Kappa measured my mast, checked the track type, ordered the Strong system, installed the Battcars on the main, and equipped the main for our Dutchman system; I installed the Strong track myself along with ball bearing halyard sheaves from Garhauer.  The difference is amazing.  Raising and lowering the main is almost effortless and there is no more twisting of the battens in their pockets like with our old main.

I highly recommend Kappa Sails.  They are competitively priced and Clarke Basset really goes the extra mile to ensure his customers are happy.

Regards,
Rocco