Messages

When the temperature gets and stays below freezing, I recommend that you run some polypropylene thru your engine.  It's cheap ($3 or $5/gal) compared to freeze damage.  It's your boat and you have to decide.

I like Ted's belt and suspenders.  When I winterize (on the hard) I drain the heat exchanger, because I pull out the old zinc and replace it in the fall.  I'm going to replace it in the spring so why not in the fall and let everything(antifreeze/water) drain out.  I also take the impeller out of the pump and spray it with silicon. No sense in leaving it all scrunched up for the winter.  At the same time I take off the drive belt.  Why have it tensioned all winter and I turn it around in the spring ( to get even wear from slight misalignment of the pulleys).  
A few thoughts.

Raz : You want the 1 1/4" and from Defender the Schaefer cleats are $73.99 each (item #612955).  Their tel # is (800)654-1616.  Ask them for a catalog if you don't have one - their prices usually beat West & Boat US.  

Raz : A mid ship cleat is the way to go.  In the meantime I would NOT recommend using a stanchion.  Better to use a continuous spring line looped around the primary Genoa winch fore and aft.
I recently replaced my Genoa track cleats for a couple of reasons.  The older ones didn't have big enough horns and the hole in the center was too small.  
Shaffer makes a nice cleat that I bought.  It also has the locking pin in the center of one of the cleat horn supports - so the hole in the center isn't taken up by the locking pin.  They are SS and not the cheapest.  
A Thought.        Welcome Aboard  

Vic : I keep 6 fenders in the aft lazeratte (2 large and 4 medium).  I've attached clips and store 8 or 10 dock lines back there also.  You didn't say if you have a propane box back there (I do).  
Another idea - I store a folding dock cart that also come apart way down on the bottom, as it's used infrequently.  If you fridge compressor is back there you need to keep that area clear.  

Ken : I looked at a price sheet dated 9 April 1988.  The line "F36 01 Tall Rig in Lieu of Standard.......$325".  
But this dealer added "incl" - so it was NO additional cost!!!!!!!  
Ron APACHE #788  

Ken : As mentioned your engine could have 3 different pumps Oberdofer, Sherwood or a  Johnson.  
BTW, if you look on page 34 of your owners manual you'll find that a
Sherwood impeller has 12 blades and as I said an Oberdofer has 6 blades.

Ken : When you ordered that kit did you state that you had a Sherwood?
The Oberdofer impeller has 6 blades and as I recall a Sherwood impeller has 8 or 10 blades.  
Think that you need to call Universal/Westerbeke.  

Paul : Call Catalina parts and get the current price and colors in stock.
There have been a quite a number of posts on installation.  Just make sure that the temperature is warm outside - I'd say above 70F so the vinyl is ply-able.  

Brian : I've known a number of people that have kept their boats in the water year around and put a "Y" valve in the raw water intake hose.  When a nice day came along they'd go sailing in winter.  When they came back to the dock they'd open the raw water "Y", suck in antifreeze and be protected (rewinterized) until the next nice day!!  I'm sure that you could do the same to any system.

You're just going to have to find a "Y" valve that fits the size line that you're using.  I used a regular garden hose "Y" between my sea water foot pump and my 1/2" fresh water line.  I did that so when we went "south" I could pump fresh water if the electric pressure pump ever failed.  It never did, but I still have that capability.  

[Freon]

Guys : Some of us may have jumped to conclusions, but that is "one hell of an engine system" to cool Freon.  

Paul : You got it right on the $$.  Most fuel polishing companies want $200 to "clean" the fuel.  That doesn't get the all of the CRUD off of the bottom and sides of the tank.  Also consider the cost of Racor filters at $25 a pop.  
You made the correct decision - just buy a new tank!!  

[must]

Paul : Better recheck the regulations (Federal, State and local).  There may be an age that the person must be wearing the PFD, not just have it on board!!  
Had a friend get a $75 fine because he got caught rowing his dink from the dink rack to his slip and didn't have a PFD with him!!  That was a real bummer.  

Marsh : I don't think you can move the mast that far forward that you could appreciably change the weather helm.  
You say "all the way aft".  You want to make sure that there is a little space between the mast and the deck hole.  It's not good to have the mast exerting pressure against that deck.  Close and touching is OK, just not pressure.
If you want to get the weather helm under control you should install a back stay adjuster or convert your existing rudder to an elliptical rudder.  The simplest is a back stay adjuster.  The one I made is in Projects on this site.  Easy to do, low cost and works great.  
The rudder extension is something you can do later.  You'll see my rudder "overhaul" in an up coming issue of the Mainsheet.  

Tom : As I recall you have an M25XP and I guess your question is really asking "What am I going to encounter"?
Either the Sherwood or the Oberdoffer raw water pump is held onto the engine by nuts that screw into studs that are secured into the engine block.  When the pump is removed you'll be looking at an accessory (female slot) drive sprocket.  I've removed my pump(s) regularly and rebuild them.  I'm still using the same gasket between the engine and the pump.  
As I recall it takes a 10mm wrench and the removal/installation is straight forward.  

Ray : There are expensive "marine" versions of your idea.  I'm sure that your's will work as long as you have hot engine coolant.

What I have is a small 110v electric heater when we're on dock power and a Colman Black Cat catalytic propane heater when we're at anchor.
A thought.