Messages

Oh wow, they certainly made some changes to the manual! Thanks! So, they've extended the oil change interval from 100 hours to 200 hours. Does that seem reasonable? I wonder what that decision was based on? Was the 100 recommendation a typo in the old manual, or is 200 a typo in the new manual? I can't imagine that Universal's understanding of oil breakdown has changed that drastically... Now I'm curious what is recommended for most similar marine engines of other makes or models.

So, at 104 hours, I'm just over the recommended oil change interval, however, I only have about two weeks left in my sailing season before we need to haul out and ship the boat across the province to our new home for next year. Question is, do I perform the oil change now, while the weather is poor for the next two days,, or do I push it and wait until just before haul out? I imagine I could have another 10-12 hours on the engine by that point. Is it worse to push the oil change, or to winter the boat with slightly used oil? I suppose the other option is do a change with filter now, and a change of just oil at haul out? Also, what's up with the dip stick in the M35B? There's no "full" mark, just two marks, I operate on the assumption that the upper mark is full.

I'm wondering why she's riding w/ the rode/hook abeam the centerline?  Is that typical for a 34? ( it isn't on my 30.)

Good question, I'm really not sure. I believe this is the standard configuration.

I've always use my mooring cleat and not the one in the anchor locker...but I am curious why your anchor-rode makes a sharp right out of the anchor roller?  Surely the wind would have the rode directly in front of the boat (on the center-line).  The rode looks taught - like you are broadside to the wind but the boat is not turning into the wind.  Have you set a stern anchor which is preventing the stern from swinging around?

I think I just took the photo as the boat was mid swing. For the most part things pull straight on the rode, but the wind around here changes direction frequently, and we are always swinging a bit. It's not uncommon for the wind in this area to do a 180 around 1am, it's usually very low wind at that time though. Usually...

You're right about shear vs. pull.

So, would you suggest in this case that I'd be best to use a bridle off the two bow cleats? Also, I wonder if the better off-season modification would be to beef up the anchor locker cleat with a huge back plate (still a pull force), or to install a centreline cleat on the bow?

Hey Noah, thanks.  When scope is sufficient with the 100 feet of chain we use a bridle with a chain hook. Doing the same on the rope, but using a prusik seems like a good idea. Would help distribute the load as well, which can't hurt.

Thanks Ron, my concern is based on the notion that you mentioned in the previous topic that the locker cleat may not have a backing plate. https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7872.msg54617.html#msg54617 I will check this at some point, but won't be able to for the next couple weeks at least.

[img]Hey sailors, I'm sitting here at a beautiful anchorage in Lake Ontario, and I've got a question. Until today I've been hitching my nylon rode to the cleat in the anchor locker. However, last night I read a post on this forum which seemed to indicate that cleat is likely not sufficiently strong for anchoring. My understanding is this has to do with direction of pull. With the locker cleat, the pull is directional with the bolts, rather than a shear force as is intended with a cleat. So, today I have made fast the rode to a bow cleat, but this seems to be putting great stress against the pullpit, as can be seen in the attached photos. So, what's the consensus, am I doing this wrong? Will I find myself with a trashed stanchion, drifting into the Bay of Quinte?

My two cents worth after 18 years with  my 1988 Mark I:  Space is a premium.  You mention oil filter and 4 qts of oil, coolant.  These are  dock side or winter maintenance chores.  You don't change your oil or coolant at sea, during the Summer, or on a cruise

The reason for all the oil is that the manual says to change every 100 hours. While I hope to motor as little as possible, I figured with prevailing westerlies, I could be due for a change part way through the journey. How far is it reasonable to push beyond "recommendations" while on a cruise?

Thanks guys, I'll definitely be adding a few things to my list as suggested. The belts all are in great condition, so I don't think I'll mess with them before the trip, however I do have spares, I forgot to include them on my list. I've had mixed advice regarding doing an impeller change. In the past I've heard it should be done as preventative maintenance every season, however, a few folks at the marina who knew the previous owner well (he passed away suddenly in late summer) have told me not to touch anything, because he was so meticulous and skilled, that anything I do will likely be unnecessary, and possibly detrimental. Several old impellers which he kept on the boat appear in good condition, and from his fuel log I can see that they did not spend much time on the water last season compared to in past years. Does it seem likely I should leave it alone for now?

I hadn't heard of Stay Afloat, it looks like a pretty amazing product, unfortunately not available at my local chandlery. They do have JB WaterWeld epoxy putty sticks, which seems to be a much smaller format, any experience with that product?

[Spares]

Hello all, my partner and I have a full two months off work before she starts her new position in Thunder Bay, ON. We purchased a beautiful (Bristol condition, so says the survey) 1998 MKII in Kingston, ON with the intention of sailing her back, through the Great Lakes via the Welland Canal. We both have a few seasons experience as crew on other boats, but as new owners, the things like maintenance, as well as the complicated mechanical and electrical systems of a boat like this compared to the older, smaller C&Cs we're used to is a bit overwhelming. There is much to learn. We've decided to spend two weeks sailing daily around the Kingston area, doing drills, etc to learn and assess our comfort level before committing to the trip, however we are provisioning the boat as if the trip is a go.
To the question at hand:
I've read through many threads including the "spare parts 101" to try to determine what we should bring along, and I'm wondering if some of the commonly suggested items are more relevant to folks doing longer passages? Given my lack of experience, I can't really imagine myself changing an alternator or injectors out in the middle of Superior. So, I've lightened the list to things I think I could handle. Please let me know if you think this list is reasonable, overkill
(get myself into trouble), or really missing some important components (won't be able to get us out of trouble).

Spares
Primary and secondary fuel filters X4
Oil filter X2
Impeller kit X2
Jabsco Joker valve
Misc Screws, Nuts, Bolts, Shackles, bailing wire, tape, zip ties etc.
Engine oil 4 quarts
AFT 1 quart
Premixed coolant 1 Gal (previous owner mixed 60/40 rather than 50/50, any idea why?)

Tools
Socket set
Allen keys
Vise grips
Adjustable wrench
Filter wrench
Needle nose pliers
Hacksaw
Rubber mallet
Multimeter

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.